Lamp Project. Adding New Life With Internal Night Light and Painted Shade

Not long ago, I bought a glass blood transfusion lamp at the flea market.
I\'m an idiot but it\'s over today and the lady just wants to throw it away so she doesn\'t have to pack it home.
It was $20 but she offered it to me for $2.
It has a dark glass flower bottle body with dark bronze metal on the bottom and top.
It has no harp and no shadows, but these things are easy to add.
I didn\'t know what was going on with the light when I first got it, so it stayed in my basement for a while until my daughter asked me to redo her bedroom.
When we talk about what she wants to do, I think I can incorporate the lights into the new plan.
The shape of the glass reminds me of an elf bottle, which is the inspiration for this transformation.
My daughters.
Children in their teens don\'t want any \"girls\" so there\'s no pink and no flowers (
I miss those days).
She also likes to use night lights, so I think I can light the glass in some way.
The glass is dark, so the night light is hidden when it is not turned on during the day.
The light was not nearly finished by the time I wrote this introduction, so I hope it will work properly. . . . . Fingers crossed.
Required material: for those who want to repeat this, the required items will vary depending on your starting point.
This is what I need for this project.
Location of Christmas lights 6-6
Extension cord 12 feet ($2 from Lowes)
Or a light line with a plug.
Glass enamel paint of various colors.
I started using these but the design changed so I ended up using a white brush.
The white brush or color you choose.
Initially, I only used the pen when laying out a rough layout, but then completely used the required tools: as neededI knew right away, normal screw drive needle nose cut terswire stripperelectrical taperwire nutsdrill/bitsmetal primer/spray pain killer brush I want light.
I originally wanted to use the led but it was beyond my limited electrical capacity so I switched to Christmas lights instead.
It usually takes a few months for me to complete this project.
I don\'t seem to have the luxury of actually being able to spend a day on a project, so I ended up walking around with time permitting.
Let yourself have fun!
One of the main reasons I really like to renovate the garbage and flea markets is that you have the freedom to go wild and have the opportunity to inherit the priceless biography heir.
What if you screw it up and ruin it?
After my last lamp project, my new rule is to always reconnect the old lights.
Replacement sockets and extended chords for chords are cheap, easy to install and safeof-
Mind replacing them.
I will keep the existing lines with the updated lights, where I have reasonable confidence in the quality level.
This is my last lamp project document, make sure to take a bunch of photos before doing anything disgraceful so you can know how things are going.
Even a fairly simple project like this can have a bunch of washers and screws that you won\'t remember where they will go when you end up regrouping them together.
DISSASEMBLEThis should be fairly obvious, but make sure the lights are unplugged before removing any lines.
To eliminate a lamp, first loosen the socket gently and then do not scan the existing line.
Pull out the existing wires.
After pulling out the wire, unscrew the bottom nut and take the light apart.
Save everything you have.
Save everything you have, even what you think you don\'t need anymore.
Put all your stuff in a covered container like a Tupperware gut so you don\'t see all the little screws.
Wash it with the open light and take the time to clean all the non
Electrical devices.
I started with simple soap and water.
This will eliminate the dust and dirt accumulated over the years.
Let everything dry completely before moving on.
Clean the glass with alcohol.
I have rescued a lot of lights from the garbage over the years, they just need to clean it well.
I know I want to light the inside of the glass, but I didn\'t know what to do at first.
So, to move on as I was looking for inspiration, I put the lighting issue on the burner at the back and focused on metal work.
The bottom and top elements are dark bronze.
I know I don\'t want to, so I started to paint metal with primer and then metal with white.
Your paint can shakes up when I spray the primer and WELLI makes a rookie mistake.
The primer is a thick paint and you really need to shake the jar for at least a few minutes, especially if you haven\'t used it for a while, as I haven\'t used it.
The paint came out in pieces and asked me to re-polish it smooth and good quality.
Finally, it\'s not a big deal because after drawing the work at the top, I decided I really hated the key element of this fake and knew it had to go away.
There are a number of subtle ways to remove key elements, but I had a bad day, so I used the most destructive method, which is the simple hammer.
With a hammer, the key is gone.
I filled the key with bondo.
Some are polished with 100 sand, then with 220 sand, and then ready to paint.
My first thought was to do metal work in red, gold and purple.
I gave the base a red undercoat and then added the gold detail with my hands.
I was happy with the way it went, but then my daughter decided she wanted her room to have a sailing theme and it was done in light blue, seafoam green and white.
To make it work with the new palette, I gave up the red and gold and simply painted the base light blue.
I know I want to light up the glass base so that it can be turned on separately from the main light so that it can be used as a night light, but I don\'t know how to do it.
At first, I wanted to use the touch switch for the night light and then switch the socket separately, but every time you touch the light, the night light comes on and I don\'t want.
After doing some digging on Google, I found a 3-way rotary switch that fits this app.
The rotary switches are designed for lamps that use multiple bulbs so that they can be turned on individually or all for more light.
This switch allows a switch to turn on the night light or the main light or both.
It\'s not something that the local big box hardware store carries, so I ordered it from Amazon.
This is a good switch, on the basis of this lamp, with these small round leaf designs, the rotary switch is perfect for one of them.
To install the switch, I first took a screwdriver and a hammer and beat it on the leaves on the base.
Then I took some needle and nose pliers and took out the metal as much as I could.
Once most of the material is gone, I simply fix the base and then clean the holes with a drill bit.
When the lights are installed, I will go into the wiring of the switch. . . . .
I know I want to make a glass base in the Sprite bottle design.
I did some digging and found a few youtube videos that I used to create the arch design on the top and bottom of the glass.
In both videos, I created an arch design on the top and bottom of the glass bar.
The glass on this lamp has a straight bar with no taper in and out.
This makes it easier to arrange the arch points.
First I took a note, in my case a shopping receipt, then packed it around the bottle, and then taped it.
I marked the paper on the tape, then removed the paper and trimmed it to the mark.
Next, I began to fold the paper in half and then in half.
I repeat it until my folding distance is about 1/2.
It is important that each mark has a perfect interval by folding it.
Much more accurate than trying to measure.
Once I have this, I level the straps and trim them to the distance I want from the bottom of the arch to the crossing point.
For this I simply used the width of the metal ruler I was using.
After trimming the paper, I glued it back to the glass and used the brush to draw points at each fold point on the top and bottom of the paper.
Then I moved the paper to the top of the glass and made the point again.
Once all the dots are there, I take the paper away and patiently draw and draw arcs from each diagonal to the next.
I made an arc in one direction around the glass and then in another direction.
After drawing all the arcs, I added the cap arc.
Starting at a certain point, I made an arc, then peeked at the next point and looked down.
I have been doing the same.
Watch the video above.
They explain the arc process better than I do.
My original intention was to draw an arc with a brush, then go back with a glass enamel paint and brush, fill the arc, and use red and gold.
When using a glass enamel paint, once everything is painted you let it dry for an hour.
Then you put the glass in a cool oven.
You set the oven to 350 degrees and heat the glass with the oven.
Once the oven reaches the temperature, you bake the glass for 30 minutes.
After 30 minutes, you turn off the oven and cool the glass with the oven.
Don\'t remove the glass for a few hours.
This note shows the baking process: my design changed and I ended up not using the glass enamel paint and only the paint pen was used.
I am satisfied that I can see the pattern just by pen.
The paint pen is not as durable as the paint, but it should last for a while.
To be honest, using Christmas lights is not my first choice.
I originally wanted to light the glass with an LED and I would hide it in the base and in the metal peace in the middle.
My electrical knowledge is limited to home wiring, so after some research, I quickly realized that the led was beyond my ability, so I switched to Plan B and to Christmas lights.
I used a bunch of 100 lights.
At first I thought I could put the lights there and I would look great, but after a few trial runs I realized it wasn\'t that simple.
After some exploration, I found a way that I was satisfied.
Cut off the extension plug.
Before powering the lights, the first thing I did was cut off the extension plug from the chain.
I did this first because I didn\'t want to get all the lights in the vase ready and cut the plug just to kill the thread.
Before I do something else, I want to make sure that there is no plug and the line still works.
Using some wire cutting machines, I just cut off the two inserts and wrap the wires with tape.
Normally I also cover the end with a wire nut, but the tape is fine because the wire is not stripped.
Because the glass vase has a wide base, feed half the chain through the glass vase.
Starting at the top, I first fed about half the light through the vase.
These lights will be stuffed into blase.
The other half is dry.
Once I feed the line, I plug it in.
Turn on the light to work, I can see the light pattern and adjust it as I go.
Once the string is fed halfway, the next thing I do is insert the pole into the glass.
When I tried, I realized that it was impossible to try to get the tube through after the lights were packed there.
After inserting the tube, I started inserting a lamp at a time.
What I am trying to do is cycle the wires between each lamp and then insert the lights so that the light relative to the glass and the wires is in the center tube behind the light between the lamp and the wire.
Working around the glass, each light pushes down the other lights in the glass.
After inserting the lights, I will move them with a ruler.
It\'s time to put the lights back together.
I started at the top.
I re-assigned the lights with my photos as a guide.
I bought a new curtain at Lowes for $9.
I used my harp for the first time to shade but once I put it on it was too big so I bought a smaller harp and it was better for shade. (
Harp is a metal ring attached to the Shadow).
At this point, I have not connected a new socket yet.
I bought a replacement 3 way socket, so I screwed the base of the socket to the top of the tube and screwed the ironing board of the suit to the US, and the old lights don\'t usually polarize.
When you look at the plug, both plugs are the same and it doesn\'t matter which way you plug in the light.
There are 3 wires with power.
Hot, neutral and ground.
The lights don\'t need to be grounded, so you usually only handle hot and neutral wires.
With home wiring, the black line is hot and the white line is neutral, but the chord of the lamp is not color coded, so it\'s a bit tricky to know which one is color coded, but the electrical code does need to label the wires.
Two wires together.
Look carefully at the wire and it will be smooth on one side, usually with very small writing on it.
Ribs on the other side.
The side of the Rids is the neutral line, and the smooth side is the hot wire.
You can also look at the plug.
The smaller prong is hot and the larger prong is neutral.
Feed the wire through the tube.
Usually, for the lamp, the power cord goes directly from the plug through the bottom of the lamp and then extends upwards to the tube terminated on the socket.
With this light, I have separate wires because I have switches on my base.
The wire on the wall is attached to the base, connected to the switch, and then there is a separate wire to extend the tube to the socket.
After careful inspection, the original wire was in good condition, so I connected it to the socket with this wire.
The first thing I did was put it through the tube until the socket.
For the main plug wire, I like to use an extension string of 6 feet.
At my local big box hardware store, a new light string is $10, but an extension string of 6 feet is only $2.
Just cut off the socket end and you can go.
The extension cord wire is more heavy duty and doesn\'t look like a normal light line, but with this light the wire will be behind the table so I don\'t get bothered.
If the wire is more prominent in this case, then I might pay extra cash for the wire that looks better.
When you wire the socket, use the underwriter knot on the socket. Knotting on the socket is a good practice.
This prevents the wires from being pulled out if the strings are pulled.
This can prevent short circuit of the wire, which may bring impact to someone and even cause fire.
This is clearly referred to as the underwriters.
To be honest, I didn\'t know this until I did a Google search and found an image to use with this Instructure.
If you don\'t get anything else from this note, you can impress your friends at the cocktail party with a little bit of knowledge.
Hot to brass/gold terminals, neutral to silver terminals when you connect the socket, the hot wire is connected to the brass/gold terminal, and the neutral wire is connected to the silver terminal.
The same is true for sockets and switches.
Brass/Gold heat.
Neutral to silver
It turns out that this light has a sliding switch socket that I hate.
Because of the switch on the base, I could have had no socket for the switch, but because I decided to use a 3 way socket in addition to the rotary switch, 3 ways gave a different level of light.
I don\'t have this picture, but once I have connected the hot and neutral wires on the socket, I like to wrap the tape around the socket 3 times for extra protection.
There is a piece of cardboard between the socket and the metal socket cover that acts as an insulator.
If your wire has an fraid end, it is possible for both hot and neutral wires to work there and touch the metal, which can shock someone.
A little electronic tape packing is extra insurance.
I didn\'t think of this.
I saw it on a family show a few years ago and have been doing it since then.
Now wire the base rotary switch, read the wiring instructions that come with the ROTARTY switch! ! !
One thing I learned is that the wiring is inconsistent from the manufacturer to the manufacturer.
For the other one, the real situation for onebrandmay may be different.
I learned the hard way to connect the touch switch on my last lamp project.
There are 3 wires on this switch.
Red, blue and black.
The black wire is connected to the incoming heat.
The red line of lamp 1 is connected to the heat (socket)
Blue is connected to the heat of lamp 2 (
Christmas lights).
The neutral line entered is connected to the neutral line of the Two Lamps.
Peel off 1/2 to 3/4 from each wire using a wire stripping clamp.
For each connection, twist the wire together, then cover it with a wire nut and wrap it with tape (not shown).
To add a little bit of pizzaz, I have an idea of drawing a lampshade.
You can buy colored curtains, but they can be a bit expensive, so I take a cheap one from the shelf and season it with some light blue paint, this is the same body as the paint on the lamp.
The light will be on a side table I made a few years ago.
The table is light blue with pink stripes and flowers on it.
To coordinate, I painted stripes on the shadows on the table.
Now I can do the stripes in the same way as the glass, fold it up with a note to determine the stripes, but for reasons I can\'t explain, I\'m on the hard road, it\'s math.
I say \"hard road\" but I have always been good at geometry (
I\'m an architect)
So it\'s actually easy for me, and I don\'t think it takes more time than other methods.
Measure the diameter of the top and bottom of the shadow.
The first thing I do is measure the top and bottom diameter of the shadow.
For this shadow, the top diameter is 7 \"and the bottom diameter is 17 \".
The next step is to calculate the perimeter.
The formula for the perimeter is 2 x pi x Radius or pi x diameter.
Using this formula, I calculated a loop for the top at 22 \"and 53.
4 \"for the bottom.
After making some napkin sketches, I decided to divide the shadows with 18 stripes.
If you use the folding method, you will divide it into 16 stripes (4 folds).
The number of stripes must be even, so yuo can repeat the stripes perfectlyspace-stripe.
Doing more math, I consider the perimeter at the top and bottom and come up with a stripe for the top and bottom.
Because the top diameter is smaller than the bottom diameter, the stripes are narrow at the top and wide at the bottom. . . i. e. tapered.
So now I\'m sticking out two pieces of tape on a table.
I mark the first length of the top and bottom circles.
Then I measure and mark the stripe position on each tape.
Use the shadow seam as a reference point for the top and bottom stripe marks.
Once I have marked the stripe position of the top tape, the strip will align the first mark with the shadow seam and the tape around the shadow.
I gently marked each stripe point with a pencil.
Since the bottom stripe point is wider than the top, the bottom mark is not aligned with the top.
To find out the starting point, I took the bottom stripe width, subtracted the top stripe width, and divided the number by 2.
Then starting with the shadow seam, I measured the distance, and that\'s where I aligned the first stripe mark.
I once again marked the position of each stripe with a pencil.
Tape tension is used to ensure the stripes are straight.
To cover the shadows, I first aligned the painter tape to the side of the upper mark, and then aligned the tape to the inside of the lower mark.
Keep the tension on the tape to keep it straight.
Once the tape is down, then move your finger along the edge to make sure the edge is down and smooth.
If you have any wrinkles on the tape, pull it up and redo it.
Once I \'ve recorded the first stripe, I don\'t have to go around the shadows for a long time and record all the edges.
I just have to be very careful to make sure the tape is on the right side of the mark so the stripes are correct.
Once the stripes are covered by tape inside the shadow to prevent excessive spraying.
Even if you keep your hands at the same distance as in the shade and move at a constant speed, keep your spray.
I didn\'t want the paint to be heavy so I only did it once.
Any defects in the paint will be very noticeable once the light goes through the paint, so I just take the time to make sure the paint is uniform.
I was worried that the painting would spill over the texture on the shaded fabric and I would have a rough edge but I was happy that the edge was perfect.
I think because I painted very light and the shadow soaked all the paint so it didn\'t bleed at all.