high power led under cabinet lighting diy - great looking and bright @ only 23w!
According to my calculation, the whole unit uses about 23 w of power.
Anyway, after installing the new cabinets and installing a shiny granite countertop, it\'s time to install some really impressive cabinets
The cabinet light can complement my design and is also very practical.
This instructable will show you how I made DIY under cabinet lighting for less than $120 and get better professional results than every commercial system I can see in person
This is a real DIY system, not a guide to how to install a business system.
So before you start, know that while I think this should be considered a \"simple\" project, some basic skills are needed, such as working comfortably in a power environment (
It\'s dangerous! )
You also need to know how to weld.
Other than that, though no special skills or tools are required.
Thanks for reading, it\'s good now! -
Alimonalso, special thanks to my dad who helped me with this project.
Fair warning, this is the longest step!
This is basically the process of thinking about my design settings.
Skip this step to see a list of materials and build instructions. . .
Under the light of the cabinet, the kitchen can be made or broken.
They can add instant and real appeal to space, but they have to meet certain criteria.
They must be effective task lights.
They have to add the right \"atmosphere \".
They have to match your current lighting scheme and in the end they have to work well for a long time (
Since installing lights under cabinets usually requires some modifications --
It\'s a pain to have to start over.
Do it, or fix it constantly! ).
When designing my settings, I can turn off the typical halogen lamp almost immediately.
They are smart and beautiful, but they have many shortcomings.
They are too big, too hot, so they don\'t last long (
Plastic crack, glass fall off, light bulb burn out quickly).
Probably their worst part is the terrible amount of wires needed to connect them!
The obvious choice for me is the lead.
Search for project ideas on the internet and there are few real \"DIY\" LED options.
Most DIY projects are related to the installation of commercial products.
I checked with local lighting shops and home improvement shops and found solutions that were seriously inadequate or ridiculously expensive.
I found some modular systems close to what I thought, but I quickly came to the conclusion that I could build it at a cheaper price to make it look and perform better.
I have some basic LED knowledge about building lights for my coral reef aquarium.
Oddly enough, I think the hobby of refrigeration gives a huge boost
LED lighting power supply in recent years.
While trying arduino and other electronics, I also fiddled with some common 5mm led etc.
I\'m also an expert at nomeansan. . .
With the led you need to remember something.
That is, LED type and layout, power supply, heat pipe management and color.
LED type and position: LED under cabinet lighting can be divided into two groups: emergency light and single light.
Strip lamps usually provide more uniform light on the entire surface (
Like a fluorescent bulb)
While it\'s personal or \"puck\" lights that provide a more eye-catching light source with different intensity, when you\'re in the light, when you\'re away from the light, it will start to get very high.
I have designed these two lamps several times and have found that usually the LEDs use smaller SMD LEDs mounted on long, thin PCB or flexible tape.
These are good, low.
However, I found that the profile option is not as strong as a single light.
If I do strip light applications using LEDs, I use two lines to get enough light.
However, the use of two guilds significantly increases costs.
I ended up with a high power 3 w LEDs, as is commonly used in coral reef lighting, specifically CREE XT-E LED.
They are very versatile and send out a lot of light, and there are several drives that are perfect for powering this type of LED, especially if you want to be interested in tuning (many support 0-
10 v dimming and PWM dimming).
The important part is the correct spacing to avoid shadows and have the correct hot settings.
I did quite a few experiments and decided that the best light was when the led was evenly separated under the central cabinet of about 12.
More led than this, I may waste efficiency (
Because I dim it most of the time).
Less led than I might sacrifice some actual mission lighting.
Power supply: for the power supply, I am using a constant current drive that is dimmable.
The led I am using has 3 v forward voltage @ 700 mA to connect them in series and you basically just need to add up the total forward voltage (
I used 11 LEDs so 3x11 = 33 v)
Make sure that the drive you purchased supports that voltage at any current you want.
700 mA is a good flow rate because it has good efficiency, but the LEDs don\'t get that hot.
The rated power of the Led is much higher than this, although the more current you give them, the brighter they will become and the less efficient they will be.
I decided to use a reliable ventronics 40 w driver.
A good thing about this driver (
It is scalable.
It outputs a minimum of 18 v and a maximum of 54 v according to the datasheet @ 700 mA.
This means that you can safely use at least 6 LEDs and up to 17 LEDs if you have 3 v LEDs (
You want to have a little wiggle room in the top range).
By using the spacing I described above, you can shine anywhere from 6 to 17 linear feet at the top of the counter!
Don\'t worry if you still need more led.
Just look for a constant current drive that supports the voltage range you need.
Just get your LED voltage at the current you want and multiply it by the LED you want to get the voltage requirement.
There are only a few cross Xitanium.
The LED driver provides a 120 v power supply for your home and converts it to a DC power supply for the LED.
Thermal management: in high power LED arrays, thermal management will be very important, and when I think of using aluminum channels or flat strips from Home Depot, I end up with a more elegant one (
No more solutions are needed.
I spent a lot of time looking for radiators and while I found a bunch, most of them came from China or were too high for my application (
I only have 3/4 under my cabinet. .
I ended up deciding to use a circular radiator that looks really beautiful, which was designed for LEDs.
The typical CPU style radiator does not work in this application, because the radiator has to rely on wood, so this design is perfect for getting enough airflow.
Most importantly, you can get this radiator at several different heights, and you can install the LED or radiator under the cabinet without drilling!
Is the Ohmite model SA-LED-113E.
Color: Let\'s not forget the color!
This is probably the most important thing. . .
For this exact reason, I will handle those crappy halogen packs before I choose the fluorescent lamp.
The color temperature will determine the mood of the lighting, and the good or bad below them.
Imagine that you have prepared some food at the counter and broccoli looks brown. . .
You don\'t want to eat that.
Now imagine the green broccoli that looks clean and bright, just like you just harvested it.
This is the power to choose the right color of the lamp.
Warm white is the most often chosen color and the one I want in my kitchen.
The Kelvin range of \"warm white\" is between 2700 k and 3500 k.
Warm white CRI highest (
Rendering color index
Under this colored light, my stuff looks the most authentic.
I decided to stay a little cooler though, as I didn\'t have many windows.
I chose 3250 LEDs and I found it to be very relevant to the \"soft white\" compact fluorescent bulb I used in the ceiling light.
At this point, you need to try to match the color of the lights under your cabinet to the other lights in the kitchen, otherwise it will look interesting.
So you either need to find the right color LEDs or you need to turn off the other lights in the kitchen.
So these are basically the principles I use to design the system.
Depending on your space, you may need to adjust something, but it seems to me that what I put together is really good for my purposes.
I\'m sorry it\'s a lot of reading, but it\'s important to take the time to do the right thing and enjoy the results!
I won\'t upload all my sketches, but what I end up with is an excel chart (
1 square is 6 inch)
List of materials :-CREE XT-
E3w high power led (
Color temperature 3250 k)
This is the data sheet-
1/2 \"high individual circular radiator (Model SA-LED-113E)-
40-watt LED driver (Model EUC-040S70DS -Spec sheet)-
10 k Ohm 1/2 w potentiometer (for dimming)16-
No. 18 copper wire (
Thicker wires running longer
Although the wire may absorb enough heat to make welding difficult, do not stay thicker than 16 specifications)
1 pack of stainless steel screws 8x1/2 \"(
Use the M10 hole on the radiator to connect the LED)
1 pack of stainless steel screws 8x3/4 \"(
Used in a hole of 1/4 to connect to the lower side of the Cabinet)
Hot oil screw (small ones! )
Welding Supplies (
60/40 welding, wet sponge and so on. . . )
Before applying hot oil stains for me, the total cost of some small metal wire Nutcracker for cleaning the radiator and LED star is about $120 as I already have hot oil stains ($$).
Tool list: drill screw driver with wire soldering iron (40W+)
If they get warm paper towels or clean clothes, a few pairs of pliers can be used to get things, and they order LEDs and drives from www. ledgroupbuy. com.
They buy led in the form of group buying, so they end up very cheap and they also arrive on the continental United States very quickly.
Fett drive, no longer simple.
You connect it to the AC power supply and connect the potentiometer.
It will run up to 15 or so LEDs in the series.
I want to run the LEDs in series because it is safer because there is only one wire between my LEDs.
For the radiator, I used the Ohmite product, which is LED-specific and is ideal for retrofit applications IMO due to the wide variety of installation options for different types of LED.
The design also seems to be well considered, and the most important thing is to be effective!
You can get almost everything else at the local hardware store/Radio Shack.
Once your materials are collected, it is wise to test everything.
You can test the LEDs with 2 1.
5 v battery or multimeter with diode test function.
Welding will be terrible in dead LED!
Tin on the pad on the LED star.
Just heat the pad and apply a little solder paste on the pad.
All you have to do is 1 (-)and 1 (+)
But since I might install them in a different configuration, I think I should have them all ready.
Next, cut some wires of about length (
A little more than what you actually need between each LED)
And peel one end around 1/8.
You really don\'t want to bring more, otherwise you have the risk of short-circuiting the LED if a little bit of welding or wire touches the aluminum star or radiator.
Welded to the end with tin.
If you do peel off more than 1/8 \"or you melt some of the sheaths, then you can cut the tin to 1/8 \".
It may take some practice to do this quickly, but this is not difficult.
Make a wiring diagram.
I connected the led in series, meaning (+)
From the wire coming from the LED driver (+)
On the first LED
So a trace from (-)
On the first LED (+)
On the second LEDThe (-)
On the second LED and go (+)
Third LED and so on. . . Finally the (-)
Back on the last LED (-)
Lead of LED driver.
You can pre-order if you want
Weld the length of the wire you made to one side of each LED (
Do not Weld to both sides unless there are no holes to pass through).
If you put the wires through the cabinet, you have to do some welding in a very tight range.
I drilled a small hole under the cabinet in the front so that the wire could not be seen.
Also, it helped me in advance
Screw the 8x1/2 screw into the M10 slot on the radiator because you have to use a little pressure to do this and it will be much more difficult with an LED while trying to line up.
Then a little bit back so you can put the LED there.
After everything is ready, the installation is very simple.
I just took the time to do things in an orderly way.
First I connected the AC power to the LED drive position and I decided to put it on a cabinet at the back so no one could see it.
It sat very low.
I put a low profile junction box nearby and used the wire nut to finish the connection.
You can install the potentiometer (Dimmer knob)
Wherever you want to go
They are usually very small (
About 1 \"long or less)
So whether it\'s under the cabinet or you can imagine putting it in your own low position
The voltage box on the wall with fancy aluminum knobs and panels or something.
Below is a link on how to route in the potentiometer.
Super simple (Youtube).
You can run once the potentiometer is wired (+)lead (or (-)
Depending on which way you are going)
Through the gap-
Cabinet Room (
There should be enough space)
Start welding your led.
Pay attention to the direction of the LED (
You will have to flip it over at some point)
This way you can avoid the wires crossing around.
You can test the LEDs after completing the welding, although I will only test it quickly for a second to prevent heat build-up and double check all connections first.
Be careful about cold joints and other welding chaos.
I actually connected my last LED with the wrong polarity.
Fortunately, the driver is smart and has protection for this kind of thing, but overall it is better to check everything carefully.
Clean the LEDs and the back of the radiator with acetone or acetone.
Apply a small amount of thermal grease on the back of the radiator and place the LED in the center of the star so that the screws do not touch any pads.
Tighten the screws.
Do not over once the LED is fixed in place
Tighten the screws.
Doing so can actually deform the metal \"star\" on the LED and reduce heat transfer.
Reverse the stars and connect the radiator to the lower side of the Cabinet using 3/4 screws. I actually pre-
Drill my hole because I don\'t want any possible cracking or other ugliness, although honestly if I don\'tDrill holes.
After installing the radiator, you can use some low voltage wire pegs to fix the loose wires.
I cut my cut and barely had any slack so I only used some staple food.
I didn\'t use nails either, and I changed them to some small screws.
The total time for preparation and installation is about 3 hours.
Finally, I noticed that in a couple of places in the room you can see a little under the cabinet, which resulted in quite a lot of glare.
So I tried some small plexiglass \"diffuser\" which should reduce this glare a lot.
I will add this step once I complete these steps.