Old-fashioned hackers of modern devices.
Setting up any phone or iPod screen in this nightlight will turn it into an old-fashioned Tiffany glass light. Whats needed.
Safety goggles (
Glass, after all! )Gloves (
If chemicals are used)
Opaque colored glass of any type.
Adjustable temperature soldering iron or glass soldering iron with set temperature. Glass cutter. Glass Grinder (
Any grinds that remove the sharp edges of the glass are convenient, but not essential. )
Adhesive copper foil.
Baker solution or flow. Solder (
The thicker the better)
Patina or Poland.
Most of the time, if not all of these items can be found at Glaxo, either from a hardware store or online.
Most goods are cheap to buy.
The grinder is essential only if you want to drill the glass into a more complex shape.
Standard of annealing glass (
Non tempered glass-
Can\'t cut it! )
Color glass can be used instead of color glass to make and paint.
I would like to show you a neat and clean workshop full of cool and precise tools but sadly my kitchen table has to do this!
I \'ve been working on Tiffany\'s work for several years, and to be honest, any space that can accommodate your tools and materials will be done in a pinch.
Cutting glass accurately is an easy-to-learn skill, but it does require practice.
Try to do some practice cutting on cheap glass or old mirror to get the feel of the cutter.
When using a glass cutter, remember to keep the cutting head perpendicular to the glass and keep it well lubricated.
A steady, firm pressure on your cutting will ensure good cutting.
What you want is a stable score on the surface of the glass.
The sound you make when cutting is a good indicator of how well you do it.
The cutter is completely safe and will not hurt anyone (
Unless you want to eat! )
Because the blade is actually a fine steel wheel that is coated with hard minerals, the glass itself is dangerous.
To get a neat parrallel part, I cut the glass with the width of the steel ruler to ensure consistency, but how you measure the glass depends on you.
I have a glass grinder and to be honest they are very cheap and easy to use and the grinding head will last a long time if used correctly.
For this example, I just use it to grind the glass edges to make them safer to use, to make the copper stick more effectively, and to gently shape the area of the ipod cable, but all of this can be done with a flat stone and some water.
Erect the glass on the surface and gently tap the edges in one direction to remove any sharp edges.
This is not a must, but an ounce of prevention is better than a hundred pounds of treatment (
And a bunch of dirty words and plasters! )
Check quickly to make sure none of them are too big or too small and the overall size looks good.
Clean the glass thoroughly and remove any oil, grease and dirt that may exist on the surface and edge.
The cleaner it is, the easier it is for copper to stick to it. Okay, so I\'m copper.
Pour all the glass.
You can see the copper foil roll on the right side of the picture.
It\'s like a metal selotape and it only takes a little care to do it right.
Basically, you take the paper off the back of the foil, place the edge of the glass in the center of the tape, and wrap it around the glass.
If it is done correctly, there should be an equal number of tape on both sides of the edge of the glass, it is necessary to carefully stick the tape to the glass, and use the bone Bolt to seal neatly with a little pressure.
You can see a DingTalk in the photo;
Short black plastic tool, but anything that does not tear the tape can be used. (
The wooden spoon was used at the beginning).
You can see a close-up of what frustration technology should look like in further pictures.
Do not mix copper and tin paste, so use a liquid or tin paste called \"baker\'s solu\" to make the tin paste stick neatly to the copper.
You can use an old brush without worrying about being too messy, we can clean it up afterwards, just try not to get too much between copper and glass as it can remove the adhesive.
At this stage, it\'s a good idea to stick the pieces together to make sure everything goes well.
Welding everything together without inspection means that if a mistake is made, the copper foil must be stripped from the glass to correct it.
Welding parts with a small amount of solder means that errors can be corrected by simply melting the solder and repositioning.
Once the position of the part is correct, a thin layer of welding will be applied to all exposed copper.
Paint all the copper with a flux or a baker\'s solution and \"spray\" The copper using soldering iron and welding agent.
When using a flux or solution, the solder paste should be easily and smoothly glued to the copper.
Aim at the thin layer because the block causes problems when additional blocks are added.
Make sure the edges and copper inside and outside are well coated.
Your goal is not to see exposed copper.
It does take a little practice to do it well, but once you learn how to do it, you can weld a whole piece at any time.
I removed a short section from one end so I could slide the charging cable through the slot.
This is because I made my phone specifically for the iPod, but the cable end of most phones is much smaller.
With a little practice, you can cut a notch yourself on the glass, or, make one end with two pieces of glass and cut half a groove from each piece of glass, which may be easier to start.
I could have cut off the base of the night light when I started this project, but sometimes, no matter how carefully you measure, the base may be too small or too large to fit.
This is due to the addition of copper.
Foil and welding, sometimes due to the adjustment when welding both sides.
The best technique is to weld the sides together, then place the unit on a piece of glass, and then use it as a template for the base when drawing to the glass to get the perfect size.
Once the base is cut, welded and welded, place the sides on the base, it should be as beautiful and comfortable in the box as you can see in the picture.
Fix it in place with tin paste in case you need to reposition.
Now the angular and internal connections are made for thicker welding applications, making the structure stronger and stronger.
Welding is actually the skeleton of the entire part, and the extent to which it is combined depends on how this stage is done.
Long, exposed edges receive a thin layer, but thick applications both inside and outside look better.
Don\'t worry, solder will spill on the glass. it won\'t stick.
Be careful, after all, it\'s molten metal!
Yes, My scar is still there!
This step is completely optional and I got leather spare parts from another project so I used it but honestly a nice thick card or a piece of material is just as good.
Rubber domes are great for this kind of project as they add a little bit of friction to protect anything the night lights turn on, but if you can\'t find them, just stick the pencil end rubber on the bottom corner, or not at all.
In order to make the lid, the same problem may occur as when making the base, so the finished side is used as a template for the overall size.
You can see this in the picture and when I cut and position the parts of the lid it is drawn on paper.
I cut straight, angled pieces of glass with sides and bottom, but the lid contains the cutting curve.
Again, this requires practice, but it is easy to do.
When the separation score bends the glass, gently but firmly tap a few times under the score line, and the glass fragments gently separate. Clean, Copper-
Foil and weld the lid together, the lid should be the perfect size of the box when we use the box as a template.
I also drew a black patina that would make the welding edge of the night light oxidized.
This gives the box a nice uniform finish, but you can also easily use polish to give them a shiny finish.
In a pinch, you can apply a shiny copper finish with copper sulfate, but its toxic material is very serious, so be careful if you decide. And here it is! !
When you charge your phone or iPod, turn on the screen flashlight and put it inside.
Depending on the design or glass color of your choice, it adds a lovely retro feel to the room!