lamp Simple Tests Tell Age of Leaded Glass Shades

The appraiser makes it look easy.When the owner describes how he or she owns it, the TV screen is filled with lead glass lamps.As soon as the owner finished the story, the assessor immediately announced that the lamp was a real Tiffany, an excellent hand, or in some cases, sorry, it was a cheap oneSo, what is the difference between authentic vintage lead glass shades and fake or copied glass shades?While it is not possible for experts to condense 20 years of gallery experience into a short online article, there are some basic points about the lead light that anyone dating can learn in a few minutes.All exquisite vintage lead tones made of about 1895technique.In the process, the edges of each piece of glass in the shadow design are wrapped in a thin layer of copper foil.The parts are then assembled on the desired shadow shape like a fixture saw puzzle in a 3D shape, such as a dome, flat umbrella, cone, etc.When each piece of frustrated glass is in close contact with each piece around it, the molten solder paste is applied to the copper foil.Welding combines shadows together and produces a unique dark wire network associated with lead glass.The assembly technique of the original copper foil tone largely separates the vintage tone from the modern replica and most fakes.The first test to evaluate the tone is to closely check the quality of the leads, welded seams that hold the glass pieces together.The vintage tones leading in quality are consistent in width and height.The intersection of the leading line is smooth and even.Retro shades are divided into places with straight tonesThe shape of the edge, the corresponding lead should also be straight;Their edges meet in straight and square joints.The retro faucet smoothly covers the whole piece of foil around the edge, and the foil packaging should not be visible.There should be no gap between the lead of the glass and the surface.In the new tone, the width and height of the lead are greatly changed, and there are often obvious bumps at the intersection of the lead.New leadership is often pitted and rough;The leading gap is common.Straight-The side part of the new tone is usually poorly installed, the leads are basically not square, and the arrangement is poor (see Fig.1 lineleading.jpg).Copper parcels are usually visible in new tones of bad lead, and there is often a gap between the lead of the glass and the surface, especially around the edges (see Fig.2 rimleading.jpg).If you are satisfied that the leader is correct, the next test is to check the glass carefully.Almost no bronze-defeated vintage lead shadow survived in perfect conditions.Over the years, simply handling heavy lead tones creates subtle bends on the circumference, resulting in stress cracks.These occur mainly in larger glass fragments, especially in longer thin glass fragments with the largest stress.In contrast, the newer tones, assembled with heavier, wider leads, are treated less in a shorter life span, and there are few stress cracks in the glass.Finally, check the consistency of patina.Patina generally is usually a dark color applied to lead shade with a chemical of heat and some kind of acid, which should be almost the same throughout the tone.The reaction between Patinating fluid and lead.Patina is not a surface covered like paint, but extends down into lead.If patina pat falls off the tap, it is likely to be modern paint, not real patina.All of the above tests can be done without removing the shadow from the lamp holder or even touching the shadow.If you want to deal with or touch the shade, be sure to get the seller's consent.If purchased online, be sure to ask for high quality close-up photos.Sellers with vintage tones are always happy to show potential buyers the authenticity of their items.Never rely on markers or signatures as a single test of age or authenticity.So many lead shadows, including real vintage shadows from other manufacturers, have fake Tiffany marks that should have minimal impact on your judgment of age or authenticity.