a taste of charleston: critic\'s notebook; southern, stylish and on the rise

by:EME LIGHTING     2020-06-13
2000 the city survived the first rebuilding era, but hardly.
It will be interesting to see how it handles the second question.
In every corner, the hammer is banging, the dust is flying, and the solemn old house is renovated and sold to the Yankee carpet dealer.
About a horse. drawn, tourist-
The city has prepared a fully loaded carriage for every real resident, and by making it impossible for any car to reach a speed of more than 8 miles per hour, traffic accidents have been reduced to almost zero.
For New Yorkers, Charleston presents a familiar, even comforting sight: a suspended land overlooking a port with a battery at one end and solid traffic most of the time
It feels like home.
Over the past 10 years, the tourist boom in Charleston has brought unexpected benefits: good restaurants.
Ten years ago, food happened in people\'s homes.
A veritable restaurant can index it with one hand, and it can also index it with several hands.
Now it needs both hands and some toes.
In fact, it\'s hard to imagine another American city of the same size ---
Charleston has a population of less than 100,000--
A more vibrant and promising restaurant scene.
Restaurant culture is still gaining ground--
Local chefs tend to overload plates and pile up too many ideas.
Sweets in this area will appear in some very strange way.
Pecans have the habit of appearing in various unexpected places.
Grits cannot be avoided.
But in one restaurant after another, I found a deep respect for the local ingredients, and a new possible sexiness that inspired my country tradition.
I also found a refreshing pleasure.
Southerners like to have fun, the attitude of \"let \'er rip \'\" appears on the menu, and on the menu it seems that anything can happen.
Sometimes things will succeed.
Sometimes you have to laugh.
But the chefs here usually swing at the ball.
One of Charleston\'s newest restaurants, advertisementhberg Cotton, gave me the impression that it was a shining example of the new wave of cooking.
It is the fantasy offspring of Broad or Snob slightly north, located across East Bay Street, near the warehouse, and now there are many restaurants.
The Khmer looks smooth.
The windows in the restaurant are tall and narrow with dark wooden blinds.
Overhead, by the old ceiling fanHeart-shaped
The shape of the palm fan lazily circled, and maroon-colored leather banquette hinted at an old railway waiting room.
Two long and narrow paintings, completed in the style of Heaven, show the wild
Wild boar in the swamp
Cotton is a premium style, but it is made in the Southern way.
Charleston\'s restaurant owner remembers the fate of Philip Wan, perhaps the best local restaurant in memory.
Owner, a Frenchman.
Trained chef, who runs the place along a formal French route, managed to empty his restaurant in record time.
People in Charleston want delicious food, but they also want to have a good time.
Part of enjoying a good time is the luxury of relaxation ---
Good manners, small room with an extension--
Southern hospitality.
Diners can settle in and stretch out at the high cotton restaurant, but the restaurant is more refined than its motto \"maverick Bar and Grill.
The menu designed by executive chef Frank Lee has the roots of the South and local, but the execution is doing a good job.
Oysters wrapped in buttermilk batter are surrounded by cream-colored green squisqui, these squisqui are proved to be green goddess, washed with parsley.
Sausage and tortillas, a little surprising in the appetizer category, stood up from their station with mushroom sauce and grilled tomatoes.
Most of the menu was given no-
Nonsense steak and ribs, but Carolina\'s long worship of the game has inspired some twists and turns, such as the potatoes and leeks that come with the local pigeon, the reduction of du Songsen brings an exciting fragrance to the deer meat medal.
Half roast duck, rub with sweet honey
Spicy mixture of chili and coriander, so full
Satisfied, almost convinced me that it doesn\'t make sense to order any other meat in Charleston.
It comes with a trembling corn pudding, light enough to make a cream freeze, and a thin to clear duck gravy, but very delicious.
The scorched stone spots also suffered.
Vanilla Baili butter, but the Nuggets of delicious smoked ham are constantly breaking through and the taste is exciting.
Honor asked me to order the blue one-cheese grits.
They are dense and rich enough for my eyes to roll back with a completely unnecessary coating of very sweet pepper flavor.
Another side dish-the mangosteen mashed potatoes are convincing proof that mangosteen and sweet potatoes do not need to know each other.
Some sweet dishes can be found on the dessert menu.
The best is heaven-
Milk Cake for praline (
The menu says \"Coronation your night with King\'s dessert \")
It is airy and has a sweet crunch, a little pecans and sweet chocolate sauce.
The advertising duck reappeared in the Charleston Grill in a completely different fashion, a luxury club --
The restaurant of Charleston Plaza Hotel is located in King Street, the city\'s main shopping street.
Louis osteng has been wearing a chef\'s hat for years, but in 1997 he left here and opened his own restaurant, the Louis restaurant, which has a dedicated local follower.
Bob Wagner took his place.
The duck was locally raised Burlill, made of candy, and then made a chowder with portobello mushrooms and Vidalia onions.
Cradle in puff
A basket with apples and apples on it.
Smoked bacon, seems to be the southern re-interpretation of the medieval meat pie, but more abundant.
A sauce made of walnut oil, sherry vinegar and pecans makes it far beyond the limits of indulgence.
The Charleston Grill feels like a luxury restaurant.
On its shiny green marble floor and dark wood paneling, in the inner courtyard, lush southern plants grow, and most importantly, in the severe 800-
28 glasses of champagne.
Anyone who misses this will soon find it reading the menu-
Any Means Necessary
The simple, quiet puppy had an almost psychedelic experience at the Charleston Grill.
An appetizer is stuffed with escargots with a button --
Mushroom musselin, and spread ham \"crack\" in the restoration of heibino \".
There is also a quiet puppy filled with caramel figs wrapped in freshly squeezed pomegranate cream.
The menu includes a selection of main courses under the heading \"simpler side\" and I suspect many diners are anxious to go and worry about dishes like pots
Grilled mountain chicken breast made of fennel and walnuts with foie gras and bacon dumplings.
I love my duck pie, but I really appreciate the local kale, they come from the island of vadmarau, stewed with Palm Amber beer, and stewed pig feet with red beads.
Not all Charleston restaurants offer new
Although sometimes it seems impossible to escape the holy trinity of pork chops, bourbon and pecans.
Bloomsom Cafe, a more casual sibling of Magnolia, serves Mediterranean cuisine-
In a long and lively restaurant with Batten windows, it gives a tropical feel and affects the food.
Please click on the box to verify that you are not a robot.
The email address is invalid. Please re-enter.
You must select the newsletter you want to subscribe.
View all New York Times newsletters.
After a slow country and Southern cuisine, I prepared Blossom\'s roasted Romein, stuffed with risotto, spicy lamb sausage and mozzarella cheese.
Grilled scallops served on a green bed, simply treated with very light lime cream and small mango dice, the pasta of the restaurant sounds like a dollar.
The dumplings are stuffed with local sweet crabs, which contain two local ingredients, corn and spinach, and a very good beef liver mushroom cream sauce.
The wide North, right on the way to the Blossom Cafe, seems worth visiting for lunch.
It\'s a big, airy place, red.
Stained wood floors, square tables covered with striped fritters, and eclectic menus with everything from corn and crab soup to pad Thai.
I pulled a wooden chair along the counter of the open kitchen, where the cotton boat used to drop the goods and walk past the appetizer, like a paella made of asparagus --
Leek cream ending in a novel
It sounds delicious.
\"It turned out to be a Southern snack, a roasted clam surrounded by concentric circles of lemon grits and bacon --tomato butter.
Great for both.
There is only one that is necessary and I am willing to change an extra clam with sauce.
My main course is that shameless dish.
Filling, impulsive South chaos, let the heart sing.
This one is a four-piece pork tenderloin, arranged around a coriander rice roll and served with grilled jalapeno salsa.
Only a strong sense of responsibility can force me to order dessert.
What I want is sour.
Cream apple pie, heard the most mysterious question I was asked in the restaurant.
\"Would you like me to heat some ice cream to match?
Said the waiter.
Of course, I answered.
Is this a specimen of local wisdom or a secret of Southern cuisine?
The pie was made with a spoonful of very orthodox vanilla ice cream.
I\'m still trying to figure it out.
Advertising Another mystery is the almost mythical reputation of woodlands resorts and hotels, a chateis & Chateaux property in Charmville, about 20 miles northwest of Charleston.
Hotel, a huge turnof-the-
The century brick tower is located in a 42-acre wooded park with four white pillars and classical porches, representing the wealth and power of small Southern towns.
The restaurant is located on an enclosed porch overlooking a terrace of palms and lush forests, aiming for elegance but not achieving the goal. It is fusty.
The menu is obviously for dazzle, with exotic flavors such as lemon red --
Dumplings with onion and meat or shellfish.
Almost every dish has surprises, and when guests are eating fancy foods like celery, you can almost hear the noise around the restaurantChips.
Once you \'ve passed the fancy footwork, the food is pretty good and doesn\'t actually meet the standard of the bill.
I do like crab cakes, sandwiched between very thin, crunchy layers of potato, with fennel candy and gewurztraminer production.
The roast lamb tenderloin from the sammerfield farm in Virginia is delicious and tender like soft butter, just restore it with syrup zinfandel.
My heart was struck by Stephen pertier, the sommelier.
His wine list, a wide and deep awe-inspiring compilation, is clearly a labor of love, watching him propose a complex, imaginative match between wine and food is a kind of Rhone from the finger of the lake to the south.
However, a quick visual survey of the restaurant showed that half of the tables had iced tea or water and I thought about half of the Sir
Frustration can explain Peltier\'s enthusiasm.
In Summerville, he is the Maytag repairman of the sommelier.
Other Relais & Chateaux in the area left more impressions.
At the Peninsula barbecue restaurant at the Planters Inn, New Southern cuisine is provided in a soothing environment.
The walls are covered with gray velvet, decorated with a simple historical portrait, and there is a naive painting of a giant horse on one wall.
Or mule.
Simple pewter chandeliers hung on the ceiling.
But things are not as simple as they seem.
Diners looking for regular food in the menu section will be surprised by some sauces, including blue ones
Cheese vinegar glaze for meat and roasted pecan rosemary butter for fish.
There are also minor issues with appetizers and more complex entrees, such as iced iceberg lettuce with buttermilk dressing and a small amount of smoked meat.
What impressed me was
The glorious resurrection of the despised iceberg, a clever post-modern blink of an eye.
Executive chef Robert Carter apparently has some sneaky moves in his repertoire.
There was no subtext at all in the low country surf and lawn main course, only one monster shrimp, burnt well outside, and a juicy quail.
There are crab meat and potatoes, roasted garlic and a bunch of fine spinach.
I found that the Greens in Charleston were rarely disappointing.
The venison ribs in the spicy cranberry juice match the taste in the room.
They are luxurious in a simple way, simple braised vegetables and a fried food made of rice and potatoes.
This is a main course that gives me hope for the old hope included in the dessert menu
Old fashioned cake. It did.
In fact, it\'s a layer cake that ends all layers of cake, a 12-
Maintain a close relationship with a strong, resilient cake layer, sugar cream without sugar over coconut, and a discreet coconut puddle ise puddle.
On my plate it was a huge white paradise.
New South Avenue is a few restaurants in Charleston.
Khmer, 199 East Bay Street; (843)724-3815. Dinner only.
Charleston Grill, 224 King Street; (843)577-4522. Dinner only.
192 East Bay Street, slightly north of broad; (843)723-3424.
Lunch and dinner.
Blossom cafe, 171 East Bay Street; (843)722-9200.
Lunch and dinner.
Woodlands Resort & Hotel, 125 Parsons Road, Somerville; (800)774-9999 or (843)875-2600.
Lunch and dinner.
No dinner on Sunday
Peninsula Grill, 112 North Market Street; (843)722-2345.
Louis, 200 conference Street; (843)853-2550.
We are constantly improving the quality of text archives.
Please send feedback, error reports, and suggestions to archid_feedback @ nytimes. com.
A version of this article was printed on page F00001 of the National edition on April 26, 2000, with the title: Taste of Charleston: a reviewer\'s Notebook;
South, fashion and rise.
Custom message
Chat Online 编辑模式下无法使用
Chat Online inputting...