wireless music reactive floor lamps
by：EME LIGHTING
2020-10-25
In this Instructure, we will make some central controlled wireless RGB lights that can respond to music and sound in the environment!
In addition to the instructions, instructable also includes: Here are the main components I use: LAMPS: CONTROLLER: So I have a very clear idea of what I want to create.
I want a center. but portable)
It is possible to receive sound detectors of the surrounding sounds and transmit them to lights that can be placed anywhere in the room or even in the house.
Since all audio is received by the same microphone, the lights should be kept in sync.
Also, I decided to use the sound detector instead of the audio jack (
Although I know a lot of people will prefer this option)
Because I want it to be completely wireless and be able to pick people up to sing, applaud or anything else.
The images show my first initial plan, and the schematic I ended up using for the fixture, as well as the schematic I used for the controller.
The lamp \"fixture\" consists of two basic components: * The Aluminum channel used to keep the LED
Spread lightThe aluminum channel with * acrylic glass, 1 m per root, buy in hardware store.
The acrylic glass I cut on the table saw the width of the aluminum channel.
In order for the acrylic to spread the light, it must be polished down to get the matte look, and also to smooth the edges seen on the table.
I started with 80 and gradually increased to 600.
For this particular purpose, I used a single addressable LED-
This is also called Neopixel.
It\'s an LED if you\'re not familiar with it-
You can refer to the bars of each diode separately.
This provides something novel, such as providing different colors to different diodes, or just lighting up a part of the stripe.
I used the adhesive on the back of the tape to fix it on the aluminum channel and there was some hot glue to make sure it was really stuck there!
Now we have to fix the acrylic light diffuser on the aluminum light diffuser.
Because the edges of the aluminum channel are very thin, this step is harder than it sounds.
The best way I \'ve found is to use some Quick Dry epoxy on the edge and keep it stable for about 5 minutes, then attach some clips to hold it in place until it\'s fully cured.
The wood base will be made from a piece of sticky oak bought by me at the hardware store.
Because it is thin, I will stick a few layers together to make a block.
I tore a few pieces on the table saw and cut 10x10 cm of the large square wood with a diagonal saw.
Then I stuck two and three together.
Once the glue is dry, I can take 3-
The block is high, making a hole like a jack for the lamp with a chisel.
It is important to have a good and comfortable fit here so that the lights don\'t have much room for maneuver.
For the second half of the wooden base, the piece with two layers glued together, I cut holes in each corner with a drill.
So I can install the puzzle and cut out a square in the room to make room for the electronics later in the process.
When I finish cutting the upper and lower parts, I stick them together and polish them on the Sander.
Finally, I applied some oil to burst the grain.
According to the schematic I made, connect the electronics with the WeMos D1 Mini and then put most on the perf board.
I use LED.
Connectors to simplify connection to LEDstrip later.
Note: In order to get the most reliable signal from the Wemos to the LED strip, it is actually good to use the signal level converter to raise the signal from 3.
3 volts to at least 3 volts. 5 volts.
You can read more about it here: it seems to work fine without it, but I think I might be-
In case someone disagrees with my schematic
I will use a power supply of 40 W 5 V.
I used a set of connectors connected to the WeMos and power plugs to connect the power supply without any soldering after the plug is inserted into the wooden base in the next step.
Using the same drill bit size as the bottom of the power plug, I drill into the bottom of the lamp holder.
I pushed it in place with a mallet.
Now you can see that it is very easy to connect the power supply as we have welded the power connector to the plug!
OK, it\'s time to add the fixture to the fixture base.
To do this, before putting the epoxy into a wooden socket, I used some Quick Dry epoxy around the whole fixture.
To fix the electronics, I put a small amount of hot glue on the lower side of the perfboard and installed it down on the USB port so it\'s easy to program later.
I connected the power connector together and the lights were done!
Next is the controller!
The first picture shows all the components I use for the controller.
They are all listed at the beginning.
I used the same technique as the lamp holder to create the control box except for only 3 layers of wood where the bottom 2 layers are hollowed out and the top 2 layers are solid.
It is important that the holes on the controller are large enough to fit the battery stand!
On the top plate I tracked the microphone stand and drilled a hole with wings to fit smoothly.
To change the mode of the light and indicate whether the controller is on or on, we will use the button lit with a blue led Diode.
To do this, I use the button component to provide an electrical interface to Wi-
But actually I used a clear game boy button.
I filed all the irregularities on its surface and drilled a hole in the middle of it.
Then I used some hot glue to connect the led Diode.
I drilled a hole large enough with a drill to fit the Button comfortably.
After welding the electronic button assembly to a piece of perfboard (
And according to the schematic diagram at the top)
, I connected the Game Boy button with LED
Diode at the top of the button.
This way, you can trigger the button it sticks to by clicking the Game Boy button!
This component is stuck in the hole that connects it from the perfboard, stuck to the lower side, so that the Game Boy button can stick out of the hole.
I wanted the charging module to stay flush with the base of the lamp, so I marked its outline with a pencil and tracked it.
Then I put it flat on the wood with a chisel.
According to the schematic, the battery is connected to the charging module and connected to Wi-
Fi board via power switch.
LED and button connection to Wi-Fi board.
For the sound detector, I used some jumper cables and welded them to Wi-Fi board.
I put all of this in the box and glue the charging module in place with some quick dry epoxy.
At the top of the controller, I drilled a large dimples on the wood around the microphone module.
I will add some structure there later to hide the module.
To cover up the electronics, I tracked a thin veneer of balsa with the size of the block.
I made the mark in the corner where I would put some legs for it to stand.
I also traced the outline of the power switch and made a hole in it.
It is very satisfactory to install the power switch in place!
For the legs, I actually use some drawer knobs that look good.
To connect the power switch to the power cord, I used some good old cable shoes and curled them up to the cable.
This makes it easier to disconnect the entire base plate if maintenance is required!
I used two small screws to fix the bottom in the proper position and upload the new code to Wi-for quick access-Fi board.
Finally, I added some oil and cut 3 layers of insect net to suit the small dimples I drilled at the beginning.
The controller is done and the rest is to upload the code to the lights and controllers!
The code I wrote for this can be viewed here: it is a program for the controller and a program for the lights.
This is not perfect, so feel free to improve it and make a request!
The basic operation process is as follows: 1.
The controller creates a new wireless network and waits for the connection. 2.
The lights are connected one by one. 3.
The controller detects that all lights are connected and starts sending data.
It has different modes of operation that can be changed by clicking the button.
In sound response mode, it sends data from the sound detector. 4.
Lights receive data, process data, dance.
The effect is very good.
I\'m not very happy with the color so I might update it if I have time to make it more fun!
In addition to the instructions, instructable also includes: Here are the main components I use: LAMPS: CONTROLLER: So I have a very clear idea of what I want to create.
I want a center. but portable)
It is possible to receive sound detectors of the surrounding sounds and transmit them to lights that can be placed anywhere in the room or even in the house.
Since all audio is received by the same microphone, the lights should be kept in sync.
Also, I decided to use the sound detector instead of the audio jack (
Although I know a lot of people will prefer this option)
Because I want it to be completely wireless and be able to pick people up to sing, applaud or anything else.
The images show my first initial plan, and the schematic I ended up using for the fixture, as well as the schematic I used for the controller.
The lamp \"fixture\" consists of two basic components: * The Aluminum channel used to keep the LED
Spread lightThe aluminum channel with * acrylic glass, 1 m per root, buy in hardware store.
The acrylic glass I cut on the table saw the width of the aluminum channel.
In order for the acrylic to spread the light, it must be polished down to get the matte look, and also to smooth the edges seen on the table.
I started with 80 and gradually increased to 600.
For this particular purpose, I used a single addressable LED-
This is also called Neopixel.
It\'s an LED if you\'re not familiar with it-
You can refer to the bars of each diode separately.
This provides something novel, such as providing different colors to different diodes, or just lighting up a part of the stripe.
I used the adhesive on the back of the tape to fix it on the aluminum channel and there was some hot glue to make sure it was really stuck there!
Now we have to fix the acrylic light diffuser on the aluminum light diffuser.
Because the edges of the aluminum channel are very thin, this step is harder than it sounds.
The best way I \'ve found is to use some Quick Dry epoxy on the edge and keep it stable for about 5 minutes, then attach some clips to hold it in place until it\'s fully cured.
The wood base will be made from a piece of sticky oak bought by me at the hardware store.
Because it is thin, I will stick a few layers together to make a block.
I tore a few pieces on the table saw and cut 10x10 cm of the large square wood with a diagonal saw.
Then I stuck two and three together.
Once the glue is dry, I can take 3-
The block is high, making a hole like a jack for the lamp with a chisel.
It is important to have a good and comfortable fit here so that the lights don\'t have much room for maneuver.
For the second half of the wooden base, the piece with two layers glued together, I cut holes in each corner with a drill.
So I can install the puzzle and cut out a square in the room to make room for the electronics later in the process.
When I finish cutting the upper and lower parts, I stick them together and polish them on the Sander.
Finally, I applied some oil to burst the grain.
According to the schematic I made, connect the electronics with the WeMos D1 Mini and then put most on the perf board.
I use LED.
Connectors to simplify connection to LEDstrip later.
Note: In order to get the most reliable signal from the Wemos to the LED strip, it is actually good to use the signal level converter to raise the signal from 3.
3 volts to at least 3 volts. 5 volts.
You can read more about it here: it seems to work fine without it, but I think I might be-
In case someone disagrees with my schematic
I will use a power supply of 40 W 5 V.
I used a set of connectors connected to the WeMos and power plugs to connect the power supply without any soldering after the plug is inserted into the wooden base in the next step.
Using the same drill bit size as the bottom of the power plug, I drill into the bottom of the lamp holder.
I pushed it in place with a mallet.
Now you can see that it is very easy to connect the power supply as we have welded the power connector to the plug!
OK, it\'s time to add the fixture to the fixture base.
To do this, before putting the epoxy into a wooden socket, I used some Quick Dry epoxy around the whole fixture.
To fix the electronics, I put a small amount of hot glue on the lower side of the perfboard and installed it down on the USB port so it\'s easy to program later.
I connected the power connector together and the lights were done!
Next is the controller!
The first picture shows all the components I use for the controller.
They are all listed at the beginning.
I used the same technique as the lamp holder to create the control box except for only 3 layers of wood where the bottom 2 layers are hollowed out and the top 2 layers are solid.
It is important that the holes on the controller are large enough to fit the battery stand!
On the top plate I tracked the microphone stand and drilled a hole with wings to fit smoothly.
To change the mode of the light and indicate whether the controller is on or on, we will use the button lit with a blue led Diode.
To do this, I use the button component to provide an electrical interface to Wi-
But actually I used a clear game boy button.
I filed all the irregularities on its surface and drilled a hole in the middle of it.
Then I used some hot glue to connect the led Diode.
I drilled a hole large enough with a drill to fit the Button comfortably.
After welding the electronic button assembly to a piece of perfboard (
And according to the schematic diagram at the top)
, I connected the Game Boy button with LED
Diode at the top of the button.
This way, you can trigger the button it sticks to by clicking the Game Boy button!
This component is stuck in the hole that connects it from the perfboard, stuck to the lower side, so that the Game Boy button can stick out of the hole.
I wanted the charging module to stay flush with the base of the lamp, so I marked its outline with a pencil and tracked it.
Then I put it flat on the wood with a chisel.
According to the schematic, the battery is connected to the charging module and connected to Wi-
Fi board via power switch.
LED and button connection to Wi-Fi board.
For the sound detector, I used some jumper cables and welded them to Wi-Fi board.
I put all of this in the box and glue the charging module in place with some quick dry epoxy.
At the top of the controller, I drilled a large dimples on the wood around the microphone module.
I will add some structure there later to hide the module.
To cover up the electronics, I tracked a thin veneer of balsa with the size of the block.
I made the mark in the corner where I would put some legs for it to stand.
I also traced the outline of the power switch and made a hole in it.
It is very satisfactory to install the power switch in place!
For the legs, I actually use some drawer knobs that look good.
To connect the power switch to the power cord, I used some good old cable shoes and curled them up to the cable.
This makes it easier to disconnect the entire base plate if maintenance is required!
I used two small screws to fix the bottom in the proper position and upload the new code to Wi-for quick access-Fi board.
Finally, I added some oil and cut 3 layers of insect net to suit the small dimples I drilled at the beginning.
The controller is done and the rest is to upload the code to the lights and controllers!
The code I wrote for this can be viewed here: it is a program for the controller and a program for the lights.
This is not perfect, so feel free to improve it and make a request!
The basic operation process is as follows: 1.
The controller creates a new wireless network and waits for the connection. 2.
The lights are connected one by one. 3.
The controller detects that all lights are connected and starts sending data.
It has different modes of operation that can be changed by clicking the button.
In sound response mode, it sends data from the sound detector. 4.
Lights receive data, process data, dance.
The effect is very good.
I\'m not very happy with the color so I might update it if I have time to make it more fun!
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