Simple RGB Ikea Lamp Hack
by：EME LIGHTING
2020-06-09
Note: This manual deals with AC and DC power supplies.
I highly recommend anyone who is interested in following my instructions, please complete the lighting course for Paige Russell first.
This is a great class and should help to make sure everyone is safe with electricity. Hello All.
This note is about turning stylish Ikea lights into red, green and blue (RGB)
Create the light source of the perfect lighting atmosphere.
The method used is easy and does not require Arduino, Raspberry Pi or programming (
As is the current trend of many hackers).
The total cost of making a lamp is $42 (US)
There are enough LED light bars to make the second light.
I\'m going to show two ways to crack this light.
\"Simple Method\" and \"clean method \". \" Enjoy.
Material: 1x Hemma floor lamp base-
$161 month\"$9.
991x rgb led light strip kit: 5050 SMD, 5 m with 12 V power supply and 44 buttons remote control.
Waterproof optional. $16 on Ebay.
Shijin shrink tube-
This is smaller and safer than the electric tape4x black zip tie strap (
If the simple way to do)
Welding tool: soldering iron wire cutter or sharp voltage/Ohm meter (
Optional but highly recommended)
This method will be the fastest way to connect things.
It\'s not that clean but requires minimal effort.
The first step is to screw the bulb socket together with the middle tube.
Next, cut the wire between the middle tube and the bottom tube.
Pull the wire out from the bottom of the base.
Set the wire to the side.
We will use it later.
Assemble the lamp holder by screwing the tube into the base.
The zipper ties the power brick to the bottom of the lamp.
Zip connects the output male socket to the top of the lamp near the bulb socket.
Connect the LED circuit board/remote control to the power plug socket and connect the sensor zipper to the lamp.
Use the last zip tie somewhere in the middle of the pole to clean up the wires. That\'s it.
Insert the LED light strip into the LED controller sensor.
The next plug of the power supply.
Open it with the remote control.
Test three colors.
From this point the wires can be kept as they are, or you can use the foot switch that comes with the Hemma lamp holder.
This is your choice.
If you want to connect the foot switch, this will be part of the wiring \"cleaning method.
This method creates a better looking lamp.
However, more steps and more tools are needed.
It should also be noted that we are going to use this method to handle AC current and I highly recommend passing the lamp class of Paige Russell.
The Ikea Hemma floor lamp base is equipped with all the wires to make it a functional lamp using traditional bulbs.
I learned from the lighting class that the bulb socket is Edison electronics.
26 The wires made up of sockets and wires are SPT-2, 18/2.
Sockets are not important to us, but wires are important. SPT-
2,18, 2 indicates that it is a line 18 with two lines-
A hot neutral wire. the SPT-
2 means that each wire has a thick plastic insulation sleeve.
In addition, Paige Russell informs the smooth jacket wire (
This happens to have text on Ikea wires)
It is hot wire, and the sleeve wire with ribs is neutral.
This will be important in the future.
Here are the steps.
First, remove from the Silver warning sticker on the bulb socket.
We really don\'t need a warning because we don\'t use sockets or bulbs that use AC power.
Next, be very careful to separate the upper and lower parts of the bulb socket.
The lower half of the socket has two labels to keep the upper half in place.
Gently pry them open and the upper half should fall off.
Don\'t break the label, we need to reassemble the socket later.
Once the socket is split into two parts, pick up your wire cutter and get as close as possible to the plastic and cut off the wires in the upper half of the socket.
Then unlock the knot of the insurer (
Strain Relief).
Take the wire apart so you have about 4-
Wire 5 inch to use.
Do not damage wire insulation.
There should be two holes at the bottom of the socket.
Pass the wire through each hole.
Reassemble the bulb socket once the wire is pulled through.
Peel the jacket off two wires in order to expose about 1/8 of the bare wires.
Next, we need to extend the output wires of the power supply.
Remove the output wire from your power supply and cut the end with about 3 inch of the wire for you to work.
If you have a choke on your power output wire, it cuts the end with a Jack so you have a power jack, choke and about 2-
3 inch of the wires work together.
Peel off your coat from the end wire you just cut.
Then peel off the internal wires, revealing about 1/8 of the bare wires.
Choose a Shrink tube of the right size and cut two lengths of 1 inch long.
Slide the Shrink tube on each wick that sticks out the lamp socket.
This is a place of need and importance.
The polarity of the wire must be maintained.
I did this to connect the smooth coat of the light line to the red line of the power jack.
Keep in mind that the smooth jacket on the Ikea wire has text on it.
Then I welded the black line of the power jack to the rib jacket of the light line.
After wire welding.
Slide the Shrink tube over the bare wire with a hot gun and shrink.
Assemble the rest of the lamp base.
The lamp wires should be extended from the bottom of the fully assembled lamp base.
Cut off the light line on the base and let yourself have 3 to 6 inch wires to use.
In the absence of damage to the insulation sleeve, strip the wires to separate the two wires.
Peel off the wire and reveal about 1/8 of bare copper on both wires.
Cut two shrink tubes of 1 \"length and slide one on each line.
Cut the larger diameter shrink pipe in 2 \"inches in length and slide it into the lamp string (
Cover two wires).
On the power supply, peel off the insulation from the end of the previous cut in order to expose the bare wire of 1/8.
Remember how we connect the other end of the light line, weld the black line on the power supply to the rib clip-on wire of the light line.
Weld the red line to the smooth jacket line of the lamp line.
Slide the Shrink tube with a smaller diameter on the welded wire.
Shrink with a hot gun.
Slide the larger diameter shrink tube over the whole object and shrink with a hot gun.
Connect the LED controller sensor to the power jack near the socket.
Connect the LED light strip to the sensor.
Plug in the power supply and turn on the LED with the remote control.
Test all colors.
After turning on the LED, unplug the power supply.
We also have the foot switch attached to the Ikea Hemma floor lamp base.
Installing this part is optional as this light hack has an infrared remote control that can turn off the lights.
However, even if the LEDs on the lamp are off, the power supply is still drawing power if the power supply is plugged in.
Adding 1 feet switches will cut off the power supply.
Here are the steps. . .
Take the plug side of the power supply.
The plug is likely to be polarized, which means one blade is wider than the other.
The wide blade is neutral.
Remember this and write it down.
From this information, note which part of the power plug wire is neutral.
Write it down, mark the wires, or make a strong psychological note. OK? Good.
Cut off the plug now.
Separate the wires on the power cord and give yourself 2-
Work together 3 inch.
Peel the sheath off the wire so that the a1/4 \"Copper of both wires is exposed.
Slide the Shrink tube of 1 \"length for each line. Slip a 2\"-
3 \"The long diameter shrink tube on the whole rope.
On the line of the lamp connected with the foot switch, separate the wire and peel off the insulation 1/4.
Pay close attention to welding the neutral of the lamp line to the neutral of the power cord.
Weld the hot spot of the lamp line to the hot spot of the power cord.
Shrink tube, first small Shrink tube, then large shrink tube. Plug it in.
Test switch.
As shown in the figure, the fan came out of the Krusning lampshade.
Throw the attached plastic cone into the recycle bin.
1-make a half inch mark around
2 inch from the edge of the plastic ring.
Cut a crack where you mark the first 6 layers through.
Try not to cut the last two floors.
It doesn\'t matter if you cut all the layers.
You only need 2.
5-meter LED light strip (
Half of the character).
Cut the LED strip at the cutting point and give you 2. 5 meters.
This gives you enough LED strips to make the second light (
But you need to buy another power supply, remote control and control sensor).
You have to do six.
8 \"diameter ring of LED strip of each layer of lampshade.
The idea is that you will make the LED light strip spiral up and insert the end of the control sensor at the top of the spiral.
Starting from the second on the ground floor, make a ring around the plastic center ring with the LED strip.
Insert the end of the control sensor through the slit on the layer of the paper and pass the excess led strip through.
Make another 6 to 8 LED loops around the center ring.
Slide the end over the next layer of paper.
Pull the extra straps to the next floor.
Repeat the process until you complete the six cycles of the six-story lampshade.
The end of the LED strip inserted into the pin of the control sensor should reach out to the top layer, there may be 6-10 LEDs.
Put the lampshade on the lamp holder as usual.
Fixed with plastic nuts attached to the lamp holder.
If you use the \"easy\" method to connect the lights, slide the control sensor over a hole in the plastic ring on the lampshade.
If your sensor is too thick to go through the hole, slide the end of the LED into the hole with a pin.
Insert the LED into the sensor.
Hit the lampshade up.
Make it very good.
Try to get a lot of folds and creases there.
When you feel that you have fully let the lampshade start to open.
Shape the shadows in the way you like.
Make sure that the black part of the control sensor is visible somewhere in the lampshade.
The Black part is actually an infrared sensor that can see the signal from the remote control.
In the simple wiring I made, the black sensor is under the lampshade.
On a clean wire, the sensor protrudes from the folds of the top paper. All done. Plug it in. Turn it on.
Enjoy the light show.
Notes on the behavior of electronic devices.
LED control sensor and remote control using infrared (IR)signals.
The same is true for TVs, Blu-ray, Roku and many other entertainment devices.
So don\'t be surprised if your light is close to your TV and the color changes every time you change the channel or adjust the volume.
Special thanks to Paige Russell for making the lamp class that inspired me to make this lamp.
I highly recommend anyone who is interested in following my instructions, please complete the lighting course for Paige Russell first.
This is a great class and should help to make sure everyone is safe with electricity. Hello All.
This note is about turning stylish Ikea lights into red, green and blue (RGB)
Create the light source of the perfect lighting atmosphere.
The method used is easy and does not require Arduino, Raspberry Pi or programming (
As is the current trend of many hackers).
The total cost of making a lamp is $42 (US)
There are enough LED light bars to make the second light.
I\'m going to show two ways to crack this light.
\"Simple Method\" and \"clean method \". \" Enjoy.
Material: 1x Hemma floor lamp base-
$161 month\"$9.
991x rgb led light strip kit: 5050 SMD, 5 m with 12 V power supply and 44 buttons remote control.
Waterproof optional. $16 on Ebay.
Shijin shrink tube-
This is smaller and safer than the electric tape4x black zip tie strap (
If the simple way to do)
Welding tool: soldering iron wire cutter or sharp voltage/Ohm meter (
Optional but highly recommended)
This method will be the fastest way to connect things.
It\'s not that clean but requires minimal effort.
The first step is to screw the bulb socket together with the middle tube.
Next, cut the wire between the middle tube and the bottom tube.
Pull the wire out from the bottom of the base.
Set the wire to the side.
We will use it later.
Assemble the lamp holder by screwing the tube into the base.
The zipper ties the power brick to the bottom of the lamp.
Zip connects the output male socket to the top of the lamp near the bulb socket.
Connect the LED circuit board/remote control to the power plug socket and connect the sensor zipper to the lamp.
Use the last zip tie somewhere in the middle of the pole to clean up the wires. That\'s it.
Insert the LED light strip into the LED controller sensor.
The next plug of the power supply.
Open it with the remote control.
Test three colors.
From this point the wires can be kept as they are, or you can use the foot switch that comes with the Hemma lamp holder.
This is your choice.
If you want to connect the foot switch, this will be part of the wiring \"cleaning method.
This method creates a better looking lamp.
However, more steps and more tools are needed.
It should also be noted that we are going to use this method to handle AC current and I highly recommend passing the lamp class of Paige Russell.
The Ikea Hemma floor lamp base is equipped with all the wires to make it a functional lamp using traditional bulbs.
I learned from the lighting class that the bulb socket is Edison electronics.
26 The wires made up of sockets and wires are SPT-2, 18/2.
Sockets are not important to us, but wires are important. SPT-
2,18, 2 indicates that it is a line 18 with two lines-
A hot neutral wire. the SPT-
2 means that each wire has a thick plastic insulation sleeve.
In addition, Paige Russell informs the smooth jacket wire (
This happens to have text on Ikea wires)
It is hot wire, and the sleeve wire with ribs is neutral.
This will be important in the future.
Here are the steps.
First, remove from the Silver warning sticker on the bulb socket.
We really don\'t need a warning because we don\'t use sockets or bulbs that use AC power.
Next, be very careful to separate the upper and lower parts of the bulb socket.
The lower half of the socket has two labels to keep the upper half in place.
Gently pry them open and the upper half should fall off.
Don\'t break the label, we need to reassemble the socket later.
Once the socket is split into two parts, pick up your wire cutter and get as close as possible to the plastic and cut off the wires in the upper half of the socket.
Then unlock the knot of the insurer (
Strain Relief).
Take the wire apart so you have about 4-
Wire 5 inch to use.
Do not damage wire insulation.
There should be two holes at the bottom of the socket.
Pass the wire through each hole.
Reassemble the bulb socket once the wire is pulled through.
Peel the jacket off two wires in order to expose about 1/8 of the bare wires.
Next, we need to extend the output wires of the power supply.
Remove the output wire from your power supply and cut the end with about 3 inch of the wire for you to work.
If you have a choke on your power output wire, it cuts the end with a Jack so you have a power jack, choke and about 2-
3 inch of the wires work together.
Peel off your coat from the end wire you just cut.
Then peel off the internal wires, revealing about 1/8 of the bare wires.
Choose a Shrink tube of the right size and cut two lengths of 1 inch long.
Slide the Shrink tube on each wick that sticks out the lamp socket.
This is a place of need and importance.
The polarity of the wire must be maintained.
I did this to connect the smooth coat of the light line to the red line of the power jack.
Keep in mind that the smooth jacket on the Ikea wire has text on it.
Then I welded the black line of the power jack to the rib jacket of the light line.
After wire welding.
Slide the Shrink tube over the bare wire with a hot gun and shrink.
Assemble the rest of the lamp base.
The lamp wires should be extended from the bottom of the fully assembled lamp base.
Cut off the light line on the base and let yourself have 3 to 6 inch wires to use.
In the absence of damage to the insulation sleeve, strip the wires to separate the two wires.
Peel off the wire and reveal about 1/8 of bare copper on both wires.
Cut two shrink tubes of 1 \"length and slide one on each line.
Cut the larger diameter shrink pipe in 2 \"inches in length and slide it into the lamp string (
Cover two wires).
On the power supply, peel off the insulation from the end of the previous cut in order to expose the bare wire of 1/8.
Remember how we connect the other end of the light line, weld the black line on the power supply to the rib clip-on wire of the light line.
Weld the red line to the smooth jacket line of the lamp line.
Slide the Shrink tube with a smaller diameter on the welded wire.
Shrink with a hot gun.
Slide the larger diameter shrink tube over the whole object and shrink with a hot gun.
Connect the LED controller sensor to the power jack near the socket.
Connect the LED light strip to the sensor.
Plug in the power supply and turn on the LED with the remote control.
Test all colors.
After turning on the LED, unplug the power supply.
We also have the foot switch attached to the Ikea Hemma floor lamp base.
Installing this part is optional as this light hack has an infrared remote control that can turn off the lights.
However, even if the LEDs on the lamp are off, the power supply is still drawing power if the power supply is plugged in.
Adding 1 feet switches will cut off the power supply.
Here are the steps. . .
Take the plug side of the power supply.
The plug is likely to be polarized, which means one blade is wider than the other.
The wide blade is neutral.
Remember this and write it down.
From this information, note which part of the power plug wire is neutral.
Write it down, mark the wires, or make a strong psychological note. OK? Good.
Cut off the plug now.
Separate the wires on the power cord and give yourself 2-
Work together 3 inch.
Peel the sheath off the wire so that the a1/4 \"Copper of both wires is exposed.
Slide the Shrink tube of 1 \"length for each line. Slip a 2\"-
3 \"The long diameter shrink tube on the whole rope.
On the line of the lamp connected with the foot switch, separate the wire and peel off the insulation 1/4.
Pay close attention to welding the neutral of the lamp line to the neutral of the power cord.
Weld the hot spot of the lamp line to the hot spot of the power cord.
Shrink tube, first small Shrink tube, then large shrink tube. Plug it in.
Test switch.
As shown in the figure, the fan came out of the Krusning lampshade.
Throw the attached plastic cone into the recycle bin.
1-make a half inch mark around
2 inch from the edge of the plastic ring.
Cut a crack where you mark the first 6 layers through.
Try not to cut the last two floors.
It doesn\'t matter if you cut all the layers.
You only need 2.
5-meter LED light strip (
Half of the character).
Cut the LED strip at the cutting point and give you 2. 5 meters.
This gives you enough LED strips to make the second light (
But you need to buy another power supply, remote control and control sensor).
You have to do six.
8 \"diameter ring of LED strip of each layer of lampshade.
The idea is that you will make the LED light strip spiral up and insert the end of the control sensor at the top of the spiral.
Starting from the second on the ground floor, make a ring around the plastic center ring with the LED strip.
Insert the end of the control sensor through the slit on the layer of the paper and pass the excess led strip through.
Make another 6 to 8 LED loops around the center ring.
Slide the end over the next layer of paper.
Pull the extra straps to the next floor.
Repeat the process until you complete the six cycles of the six-story lampshade.
The end of the LED strip inserted into the pin of the control sensor should reach out to the top layer, there may be 6-10 LEDs.
Put the lampshade on the lamp holder as usual.
Fixed with plastic nuts attached to the lamp holder.
If you use the \"easy\" method to connect the lights, slide the control sensor over a hole in the plastic ring on the lampshade.
If your sensor is too thick to go through the hole, slide the end of the LED into the hole with a pin.
Insert the LED into the sensor.
Hit the lampshade up.
Make it very good.
Try to get a lot of folds and creases there.
When you feel that you have fully let the lampshade start to open.
Shape the shadows in the way you like.
Make sure that the black part of the control sensor is visible somewhere in the lampshade.
The Black part is actually an infrared sensor that can see the signal from the remote control.
In the simple wiring I made, the black sensor is under the lampshade.
On a clean wire, the sensor protrudes from the folds of the top paper. All done. Plug it in. Turn it on.
Enjoy the light show.
Notes on the behavior of electronic devices.
LED control sensor and remote control using infrared (IR)signals.
The same is true for TVs, Blu-ray, Roku and many other entertainment devices.
So don\'t be surprised if your light is close to your TV and the color changes every time you change the channel or adjust the volume.
Special thanks to Paige Russell for making the lamp class that inspired me to make this lamp.
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