Wyndham Grand Weifang, China
rgb led skate lights
by：EME LIGHTING
2020-03-25
While I won\'t explain how to do this, I\'ll probably do a very detailed introduction on how to program the chip.
Go and see how to program the IC.
For my project, I used a common anode LEDs.
So basically you have to connect the common anode (Longer lead time)to 3.
3 V, then turn on each LED and you have to connect the other leads to GND.
But when I tried to use it with Arduino, I had a problem.
The problem is I need three RGB pins to connect to GND instead of 5v (
Output from Arduino pin).
After reading the normal anode RGB LEDs, I found that you have to use a technique called current sink.
I honestly don\'t know how this works, but basically you can connect all the pins to the Arduino with resistors.
In order to turn on the LEDs, you have to set the Arduino pin to low.
To turn it off, set the pin to high.
Yeah, it\'s crazy!
I accidentally made the mistake of soldering the common anode to the circuit board GND.
As a result, most pictures will show that they are soldered to the GND of the board.
Instead, they should be welded to the Vcc on the board.
Insert the DIP socket into the perf board and push the pin to the back to secure it on the perf.
You can also insert a 90 degree pin head in one of the corners.
The pin head is used for the power supply of the circuit.
Weld the wire from the top pin head to Vcc (
ATtiny2313).
The bottom lead is welded to the GND of the IC.
Please check pinout if you are not sure.
Now keep in mind that instead of welding to the ATtiny2313 itself, we are welding to its socket.
So we can do it again.
Use the IC or re-program it by popping it out of the socket.
If you weld it directly to the board, then you have to unlock the whole thing to get it off.
It\'s time to start working on these LEDs.
Fix them on three negative leads using aid hands and welding resistors.
Weld your long wires on the common anode.
Shrink heat on all exposed wires. Using a 3.
3v power supply (
Like on Arduino.
, Test each LED lead, and then draw the drawing of the leads connected to which colors.
You can then weld the correct leads to pins 13, 12 and 11.
According to the sketch, each LED is connected here.
Green = Pin 11 blue = pin 12 red = pin 13 co-anode (
LED from RGB)
Weld to the Vcc on your board.
I drilled two holes near the pin head and welded the to line to the VCC side.
Now you need to weld another LED in exactly the same way as the first one.
Make sure that the three leads point to pins 13, 12, and 11, and that the common anode is soldered to the power supply on the Vcc or board.
We\'re almost finished welding! ! !
Find the pin head and cut it into two sections.
Weld on red and black wires.
Now your skates may not be as convenient as mine.
You may have to put the batter on top of the shoe or in the sock so you can put the battery pack there.
If I put the battery pack, you can cut the wire to about 2 inch.
Strip the wires from the battery pack.
You may want to cut off the wires and you will put the diodes a little shorter than the other to keep them the same length.
Solder on the diode and connect the battery pack to the parent pin head.
Don\'t forget to put on the heat shrink tube first!
I covered the bottom of the board to avoid any short connection on the metal stand on the skateboard.
I also covered the top with tape.
You might want to put a large heat shrink on all the leads on the LEDs.
Stick a piece of double sided tape to the board and push it onto a flat surface on the board.
Run a piece of tape vertically on the battery pack and slide it into the shoes.
Again, you may not have this manual cut in your shoes, so you may need to tie it to the side of the skating, above it, or tuck it into your socks.
Now you might want to know why I\'m having all the trouble adding two pin head connections.
This way, when you skate, whether it\'s the battery back or the board falling off, they will disconnect each other with tearing anything.
This is causing trouble for you to solve the problem.
Plug in.
Make sure you have the right polarity!
Slide on the switch and rock!
Believe me, everyone at the rink will think, wow!
Especially when they turn off the lights and blur the place: D. If you have any questions, I hope you like the instructions, please feel free to leave me a message below or in the afternoon.
Don\'t forget to vote for it in the micro controller contest, favorite!
Until next time!
Go and see how to program the IC.
For my project, I used a common anode LEDs.
So basically you have to connect the common anode (Longer lead time)to 3.
3 V, then turn on each LED and you have to connect the other leads to GND.
But when I tried to use it with Arduino, I had a problem.
The problem is I need three RGB pins to connect to GND instead of 5v (
Output from Arduino pin).
After reading the normal anode RGB LEDs, I found that you have to use a technique called current sink.
I honestly don\'t know how this works, but basically you can connect all the pins to the Arduino with resistors.
In order to turn on the LEDs, you have to set the Arduino pin to low.
To turn it off, set the pin to high.
Yeah, it\'s crazy!
I accidentally made the mistake of soldering the common anode to the circuit board GND.
As a result, most pictures will show that they are soldered to the GND of the board.
Instead, they should be welded to the Vcc on the board.
Insert the DIP socket into the perf board and push the pin to the back to secure it on the perf.
You can also insert a 90 degree pin head in one of the corners.
The pin head is used for the power supply of the circuit.
Weld the wire from the top pin head to Vcc (
ATtiny2313).
The bottom lead is welded to the GND of the IC.
Please check pinout if you are not sure.
Now keep in mind that instead of welding to the ATtiny2313 itself, we are welding to its socket.
So we can do it again.
Use the IC or re-program it by popping it out of the socket.
If you weld it directly to the board, then you have to unlock the whole thing to get it off.
It\'s time to start working on these LEDs.
Fix them on three negative leads using aid hands and welding resistors.
Weld your long wires on the common anode.
Shrink heat on all exposed wires. Using a 3.
3v power supply (
Like on Arduino.
, Test each LED lead, and then draw the drawing of the leads connected to which colors.
You can then weld the correct leads to pins 13, 12 and 11.
According to the sketch, each LED is connected here.
Green = Pin 11 blue = pin 12 red = pin 13 co-anode (
LED from RGB)
Weld to the Vcc on your board.
I drilled two holes near the pin head and welded the to line to the VCC side.
Now you need to weld another LED in exactly the same way as the first one.
Make sure that the three leads point to pins 13, 12, and 11, and that the common anode is soldered to the power supply on the Vcc or board.
We\'re almost finished welding! ! !
Find the pin head and cut it into two sections.
Weld on red and black wires.
Now your skates may not be as convenient as mine.
You may have to put the batter on top of the shoe or in the sock so you can put the battery pack there.
If I put the battery pack, you can cut the wire to about 2 inch.
Strip the wires from the battery pack.
You may want to cut off the wires and you will put the diodes a little shorter than the other to keep them the same length.
Solder on the diode and connect the battery pack to the parent pin head.
Don\'t forget to put on the heat shrink tube first!
I covered the bottom of the board to avoid any short connection on the metal stand on the skateboard.
I also covered the top with tape.
You might want to put a large heat shrink on all the leads on the LEDs.
Stick a piece of double sided tape to the board and push it onto a flat surface on the board.
Run a piece of tape vertically on the battery pack and slide it into the shoes.
Again, you may not have this manual cut in your shoes, so you may need to tie it to the side of the skating, above it, or tuck it into your socks.
Now you might want to know why I\'m having all the trouble adding two pin head connections.
This way, when you skate, whether it\'s the battery back or the board falling off, they will disconnect each other with tearing anything.
This is causing trouble for you to solve the problem.
Plug in.
Make sure you have the right polarity!
Slide on the switch and rock!
Believe me, everyone at the rink will think, wow!
Especially when they turn off the lights and blur the place: D. If you have any questions, I hope you like the instructions, please feel free to leave me a message below or in the afternoon.
Don\'t forget to vote for it in the micro controller contest, favorite!
Until next time!
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