origami suspension lamp
by：EME LIGHTING
2020-03-28
We just moved into a new apartment with bare light bulbs hanging on the ceiling, and there is a clause in the lease saying that we are not allowed to make holes because the walls and ceilings are freshly painted.
Some wires and even one bulb have traces of recent re-painting.
After replacing 3 fixtures and purchasing new bulbs for all fixtures (
All the new fixtures are threaded and the old bulbs and sockets are not threaded)
, We wanted to see if we could find a way to keep the existing bulbs and wires on the corridor while creating a new hanging shadow around the corridor.
Because it is not very heavy, paper looks like a good material option.
The hook on our ceiling is a closed loop, which makes it more difficult to connect.
I looked at a bunch of pictures of origami lampshades before determining the design I wanted, but I couldn\'t find the full tutorial and I made some changes to the design.
Every example I \'ve found has a photo of a design change that doesn\'t say they\'re changing and doesn\'t reveal a clear folding pattern.
The best version I found is here: the version is on the instructures, and the design is different (4 rows)
There is no very detailed description: The goal here is to walk through step by step so that I can make an origami lampshade as I did at home without over-prototyping.
Material: paper * tape measuring ruler hole punchString, similar in weight to embroidery thread, slot with bulbExisting light line or new hanging line and LED bulbOptional: knitting thread shaft (
I made one with six toothpicks and some tape.
* It is more difficult to choose paper than expected, especially since I live in a small city.
In the blog reference, this issue is discussed very well: big papers are often heavyweight papers. Heavyweight (220-gram)
As the author has found through experience, it is difficult for the paper to fold accurately.
Apparently, after calling an art/stationery store in Amsterdam, the author was able to find A1 paper of one of the two colors she wanted, \"not too thick \", in order to get the size lampshade she wanted, she had to connect together in two places.
In my small city, I can\'t even find a thick large piece of paper.
I think butcher paper, like the table covering that the kids I see can draw, is useful to limit the seams in the building, but I can\'t find this locally.
The rolls sold as desktop covers have strange textures, not actually paper.
The solution I decided was to draw paper for Ikea Mala children to 30-
In the next big city, the price of about 30 km is 5 euros.
Working with me is a bit picky.
Complex folds need to be handled carefully
But at 45 cm high it is big enough that it still allows light to pass through the shadows.
It can be easily painted or decorated because it is off
Unbleached whitelooking paper.
I \'ve seen some examples on Etsy where people use maps as an interesting basis for origami hanging.
I don\'t have any big paper maps with a lot of annoying ads on them and I don\'t mind cutting them into strips and folding them!
Measure twice, cut once!
In the tutorial I found for other styles of lights, people said they drew a bunch of lines before folding.
I don\'t want to erase all the pencil lines and let them shine on the lampshade, so I want to set the size in a way that doesn\'t need to keep track of each row to fold it out.
The design of this lamp is based on the magic ball, the length of the magic ball: the ratio of height is 2:1, but which one is better --
Suitable for lights if you have a 4:1 ratio.
The problem is that my version is only 3 lines and anyone trying to fold a letter into an envelope knows it\'s much easier to fold things in half (
Or two other forces)
More than thirty fold!
Basically, the large pattern is 3 rows of 8 large squares.
A square must be a square so that the diagonal line is aligned correctly.
In my case, the paper is 45 cm high, so a square is 15 cm x 15 cm.
That means I want 120. cm-
The long piece of the pattern, I added an extra 1 cm flap (
Later called \"closed flap \")
Able to stick the ends together in a circle.
This is stated above.
Since my paper roll is new, I first cut off a vertical strap to remove the part of the paper roll that was damaged by the product sticker and close it.
I measured 120 and 121 cm from the end of the roll with my tape measure and marked the dots every few centimeters with a pencil. I used a 30-
The Cm ruler connects the point to a vertical line and makes a second comparison with the tape measure to make sure it is indeed straight, parallel to the end of the volume.
I do want the lines here.
When I thought my lines were good, I cut them with scissors.
I can\'t use a paper cutter, a regular cutting board or T-
Square, so that\'s what I did!
Then I put 1-
Cm closes the flap so that the pencil line is hidden inside the fold.
I use my ruler to help make this fold straight without tearing the edge of the paper.
Folding is a math practice!
In origami terms, when you look at the pattern from above, the mountain fold is pointing to your fold, and the end of the paper is far away from you.
The valley fold is the end of the paper closest to you, and the fold itself is further away from you.
The valley folds that make up most of this step mean that you have to fold the paper in two directions along the same line.
The small flap that closes the shape is just a mountain fold.
As shown in the figure, the main pattern is 16 vertical parts with equal width, which means that you need to fold 15 times in both directions.
I do this by folding the larger part in half and dividing the paper into smaller parts.
Half a mountain waist, a valley fold (Red-
Pattern and orange on the first photo)
: At first, I folded the whole piece of paper into half, and the left hand side of the paper hit the mountain fold (
Just turn over the paper)
This marks the beginning of closing the flaps, precisely arranging the corners, folding from each side to the center, sharpening the entire fold, and then bending the paper back, with a sharp crease in the opposite direction.
Valley folds for 2 quarters (Orange-
Yellow on the pattern)
: Then I fold the edge of the paper to the center line, both on the left-
Hand side and right-hand side (right-
The edge of the hand is the edge of the pattern, not the edge of the closed flap).
I checked the corners and creases in both directions.
8, 4 valley folds (Yellow-
Green on the pattern, second photo)
: Next, I fold the edge of the paper to the nearest scale line on the left
Hand side and right-
The hand side folds the valley.
To finish the pattern, I fold the edge of the paper to the farthest quarterly line, both on the lefthand-
Side and right-hand side.
8 valley folds in 6 months (
Navy blue on the pattern, third photo)
: Finally, you need to fold the edge of the paper to line 8.
Like the eihths, start with the edge of the paper and think carefully about which line is the eighth line.
At this point, you may consider carefully how long this will take.
You still have a long way to go and a lot of folds to do!
Horizontal mountain folding, easy to fold in the magic ball, because you can fold in half a bunch of time, there is a need for a pattern-based Square here, because it is difficult to fold into a third one!
The picture and the first photo show a series of 2 diagonal valleys folded in each corner, folding the edge of the paper towards the first and second rows to determine the height of the row.
Technically you just need the second diagonal to get the square, but you end up with the first fold, so why not do it now?
Doing all the corners can help you line up on both sides of the long horizontal line.
The second photo shows the pattern starting from the back, as the bottom of the pattern is folded horizontally to fit the pattern that has been folded down at the top to form the line at the top.
The height of the three rows should be equal!
Expand and you will see the main bones of the pattern.
There is no skill in this part, just a lot of folding.
You have to keep the Valley folding the edges of the paper to every vertical line on the paper so you can create one (
If my chart is perfect, it\'s square)
A grid that intersects a diagonal.
This feeling is natural until you reach the horizontal edge of the paper (
Lines shown in the first photo).
After that, you begin to fold the edges of the paper, continue to align with the vertical line, and fold from the edge to the center (second photo).
It is a good idea to continue extending the diagonal pattern to a closed flap.
You fold like this all the time (Photos 3 and 4). . .
Until the end, you expand to the pattern shown in the final photo.
I suggest that any decoration of the paper be completed before the end of this step.
You can see where the pattern will be, but the paper is still flat.
This is the hardest part.
The picture shows what you end up needing to fold in the final pattern, superimposed on the mesh you fold.
The mountain folds are red and the valley folds are blue.
The first two rows of the pattern are actually a magic ball pattern, which is a tile pattern of the water bomb structure.
A water bomb on a single square paper folds into an isosceles triangle: Both sides are of the same length, in which case the bottom of the triangle is longer than the two sides.
The \"X\" part is the valley folds, and the two mountain folds bring the top and bottom edges into the center of the pattern.
The water bomb that interacts with each other looks like> arrows (
Pointing up and down)
Magic Ball when tile.
In order to make the shape of the lampshade stronger, the next line was modified.
I think it makes the finished product look more complicated and interesting.
You have a winding pattern, but the water bomb shape above limits the top, so you have a Y-shaped valley fold inside the five-angle Arrow
Like a raised shape
The initial prototype I showed in the first photo drew the line online.
Starting with the corners, starting with the edges of the pattern, you need to induce the paper into the shape you want.
It was slow at first.
The second photo shows lines that barely gather together on the bottom line pattern.
Don\'t try to fold too tightly because the paper is hard to fold well --
Folded in half, relatively flat in the other half.
If you\'re using the children\'s drawing paper I use, it could tear if you pinch too tight too early!
When the pattern is combined together, try to pinch the raised arrow shape to be sharper (5th photo)
And flip to the opposite side of the pattern and clip the water bomb and Y-
The shape at the bottom of the lowest row is clearer.
You will find that the pattern can really be put together in the end, or even folded flat (
Last photo, weighted down with scissors).
By the way, this is the shape you should have when everything is good and flat.
I decided to fold the small closed flap in succession with the pattern so that it would not stretch out and would fit perfectly into the opposite edge.
Check to make sure all your folds follow the pre-
Fold the line, the vertices are very good, very sharp.
Now you are ready to form the lampshade!
You have a nice texture pattern right now, but you need to have something more like a ball.
The first step is to glue the closed flap to the relative edge of the pattern to make it equal to the cylinder.
I used glue (first photo)
Because I ran out of the rest of the glue and made a cardboard cat scratch.
I don\'t think it will work, but gradually glue with your fingers and press each adhesive part for 10 seconds and work down from the upper row and the glue stays the same!
Closed flaps nested behind the edges of the pattern that should be, forming a continuous pattern around the cylindrical tube.
The second picture is the shape, which is not very stable.
Mark the place you want to punch in with a pencil.
Then punch holes in the top of the cylinder and let the rope go through.
This is shown in my 3rd photos.
I have a mini punch that is perfect for punching holes, but you can use what you have on hand.
Draw your rope through your hole.
The use of tapestries needles has helped make the process more smooth.
My rope is like embroidered floss, with no shine, found on the craft aisle next to the embroidered floss.
I chose to position the loose end of the rope where my glue seam is (4th photo).
Once you put your end where you want it, tighten the end according to your needs and tie the knot.
Trim and gather the ends in the shade.
Tying the top together helps keep the shadow in its shape.
The last photo shows the final form, next to a smaller prototype I made with two A4 sheets of paper.
Actually, in the tutorial I found, the parts from shadows to lights are not always clear.
Even though we have an LED bulb, I don\'t want to risk a fire by having the bulb socket touch the paper shadow directly.
Before threading on my lampshade, I put the bulb holder through an old CD.
Can be seen from the bottom view (1st photo)
I didn\'t pull the top of the lamp as tight as possible because I knew I had a small \"shelf\" to hang the curtains.
The pattern fits well with the CD shape.
I hope to have a more professional
Looks like a light bulb holder, maybe you can screw it heavy
Measure the wire into a ring with the inner ring of the bulb, but this is both simple and effective.
The CD did make weird neon rainbow patterns on the floor under the suspension, but when I was a kid I would love this one!
Our fixture hardware was damaged by paint overlap.
White paint on black wires.
I don\'t have a knit spool at hand, and I think it\'s the easiest job, so I cut off one of my own bobbins with 6 toothpicks to make them shorter and shorter, and the tip is getting less and less sharp, fold them in half with approximately equal tape
Interval the pattern and paste it into a loop. I knitted an I-
Tie the lights together with some remaining rope, cycle around each toothpick post in turn from inside the circle until there are two rings around each post, and then with the help of my tapestry needle, draw the bottom ring at the top so that I can continue the rope by adding another line.
I put I-
Put the wire into a wider tube, feed it through the wire, stretch it, tie it a few centimeters away from the bulb holder inside the lampshade, tie the top to \"Domino, there are wires inside.
Finally hang up the lights!
For me, that means standing on the chair and connecting the Domino (
Is to twist two lines)
And through the ring on the ceiling, adjust the angle of the hanging lampshade, hide the seam in the least positionvisible angle.
The final photo shows the lights on and off.
Please follow the instructions if you buy a new suspension.
I tried other shapes I have seen, including different possible shapes from the magic ball base. The 4-row and many-
Pillar magic ball shape (
The first photo is tied together)
Although the modified bottom row is used, it will not be in good shape if it is tied only to one end.
The use of less, larger pattern elements can make the shape stronger.
I see a good twist pattern used in different types of hanging lampshades and it\'s easy to find from the bottom.
I can issue instructions on request.
The big white flat module is a big version of this mode, just like the principle of continuing the bottom line up of my lamp.
The small red module is a suspended zigzag base opened wide at the bottom, with only two lines.
We don\'t need this light, but it can be seen on top of the table or kitchen.
In the first photo, I modified the model with the blue bottom to make a sconce shade.
We have a light bulb with a small angle on our wall (
About 2 cm of the wires stick together from a rough hole in the Wall)
, There is repainted gray paint on the bulb.
I want to cover it and then use the pattern I like (
Buildings that benefit from heavier paper).
However, I don\'t have enough space behind the bulb to close it in the shape of a tulip I \'ve seen.
I think the round shape helps the fixture to maintain shape and eliminate the pattern.
I start with the pattern I like, a typical accordion lampshade shape with a tortuous detail on the bottom, then adjust the top and create a small shelf in my hanging lampshade.
I showed the model prototype and its profile in 2nd and 3rd photos.
Since this prototype, I have slightly adjusted the scale to make the shape of the lamp longer, width: The height ratio has doubled, thus increasing the number of columns in the pattern.
I make holes, tie the top together with a rope, and then stick sconce shadows to the wall with masking tape that is only placed behind the top structure without making any holes in the wall.
It is light enough to hold there with just masking tape, and it spreads light and looks better than a bare bulb.
One drawback of this pattern, and why I don\'t release it alone, is that the semi-circle highlights any defects in the pattern, and it looks strange at the edge pressed on the wall, because they compress more than the part in the center of the pattern.
I \'ve thought about what else to do with the same frame, and outlined the idea for the vertex shape, but nothing else very primitive surfaced.
If I had a specific idea of the shape I wanted, it would be easier to figure out what needs to be done.
Once you make a mess of all these interlocking water bombs and see that this structure can be changed in other parts of the lamp structure, the sky is the limit to accommodate other needs!
Some wires and even one bulb have traces of recent re-painting.
After replacing 3 fixtures and purchasing new bulbs for all fixtures (
All the new fixtures are threaded and the old bulbs and sockets are not threaded)
, We wanted to see if we could find a way to keep the existing bulbs and wires on the corridor while creating a new hanging shadow around the corridor.
Because it is not very heavy, paper looks like a good material option.
The hook on our ceiling is a closed loop, which makes it more difficult to connect.
I looked at a bunch of pictures of origami lampshades before determining the design I wanted, but I couldn\'t find the full tutorial and I made some changes to the design.
Every example I \'ve found has a photo of a design change that doesn\'t say they\'re changing and doesn\'t reveal a clear folding pattern.
The best version I found is here: the version is on the instructures, and the design is different (4 rows)
There is no very detailed description: The goal here is to walk through step by step so that I can make an origami lampshade as I did at home without over-prototyping.
Material: paper * tape measuring ruler hole punchString, similar in weight to embroidery thread, slot with bulbExisting light line or new hanging line and LED bulbOptional: knitting thread shaft (
I made one with six toothpicks and some tape.
* It is more difficult to choose paper than expected, especially since I live in a small city.
In the blog reference, this issue is discussed very well: big papers are often heavyweight papers. Heavyweight (220-gram)
As the author has found through experience, it is difficult for the paper to fold accurately.
Apparently, after calling an art/stationery store in Amsterdam, the author was able to find A1 paper of one of the two colors she wanted, \"not too thick \", in order to get the size lampshade she wanted, she had to connect together in two places.
In my small city, I can\'t even find a thick large piece of paper.
I think butcher paper, like the table covering that the kids I see can draw, is useful to limit the seams in the building, but I can\'t find this locally.
The rolls sold as desktop covers have strange textures, not actually paper.
The solution I decided was to draw paper for Ikea Mala children to 30-
In the next big city, the price of about 30 km is 5 euros.
Working with me is a bit picky.
Complex folds need to be handled carefully
But at 45 cm high it is big enough that it still allows light to pass through the shadows.
It can be easily painted or decorated because it is off
Unbleached whitelooking paper.
I \'ve seen some examples on Etsy where people use maps as an interesting basis for origami hanging.
I don\'t have any big paper maps with a lot of annoying ads on them and I don\'t mind cutting them into strips and folding them!
Measure twice, cut once!
In the tutorial I found for other styles of lights, people said they drew a bunch of lines before folding.
I don\'t want to erase all the pencil lines and let them shine on the lampshade, so I want to set the size in a way that doesn\'t need to keep track of each row to fold it out.
The design of this lamp is based on the magic ball, the length of the magic ball: the ratio of height is 2:1, but which one is better --
Suitable for lights if you have a 4:1 ratio.
The problem is that my version is only 3 lines and anyone trying to fold a letter into an envelope knows it\'s much easier to fold things in half (
Or two other forces)
More than thirty fold!
Basically, the large pattern is 3 rows of 8 large squares.
A square must be a square so that the diagonal line is aligned correctly.
In my case, the paper is 45 cm high, so a square is 15 cm x 15 cm.
That means I want 120. cm-
The long piece of the pattern, I added an extra 1 cm flap (
Later called \"closed flap \")
Able to stick the ends together in a circle.
This is stated above.
Since my paper roll is new, I first cut off a vertical strap to remove the part of the paper roll that was damaged by the product sticker and close it.
I measured 120 and 121 cm from the end of the roll with my tape measure and marked the dots every few centimeters with a pencil. I used a 30-
The Cm ruler connects the point to a vertical line and makes a second comparison with the tape measure to make sure it is indeed straight, parallel to the end of the volume.
I do want the lines here.
When I thought my lines were good, I cut them with scissors.
I can\'t use a paper cutter, a regular cutting board or T-
Square, so that\'s what I did!
Then I put 1-
Cm closes the flap so that the pencil line is hidden inside the fold.
I use my ruler to help make this fold straight without tearing the edge of the paper.
Folding is a math practice!
In origami terms, when you look at the pattern from above, the mountain fold is pointing to your fold, and the end of the paper is far away from you.
The valley fold is the end of the paper closest to you, and the fold itself is further away from you.
The valley folds that make up most of this step mean that you have to fold the paper in two directions along the same line.
The small flap that closes the shape is just a mountain fold.
As shown in the figure, the main pattern is 16 vertical parts with equal width, which means that you need to fold 15 times in both directions.
I do this by folding the larger part in half and dividing the paper into smaller parts.
Half a mountain waist, a valley fold (Red-
Pattern and orange on the first photo)
: At first, I folded the whole piece of paper into half, and the left hand side of the paper hit the mountain fold (
Just turn over the paper)
This marks the beginning of closing the flaps, precisely arranging the corners, folding from each side to the center, sharpening the entire fold, and then bending the paper back, with a sharp crease in the opposite direction.
Valley folds for 2 quarters (Orange-
Yellow on the pattern)
: Then I fold the edge of the paper to the center line, both on the left-
Hand side and right-hand side (right-
The edge of the hand is the edge of the pattern, not the edge of the closed flap).
I checked the corners and creases in both directions.
8, 4 valley folds (Yellow-
Green on the pattern, second photo)
: Next, I fold the edge of the paper to the nearest scale line on the left
Hand side and right-
The hand side folds the valley.
To finish the pattern, I fold the edge of the paper to the farthest quarterly line, both on the lefthand-
Side and right-hand side.
8 valley folds in 6 months (
Navy blue on the pattern, third photo)
: Finally, you need to fold the edge of the paper to line 8.
Like the eihths, start with the edge of the paper and think carefully about which line is the eighth line.
At this point, you may consider carefully how long this will take.
You still have a long way to go and a lot of folds to do!
Horizontal mountain folding, easy to fold in the magic ball, because you can fold in half a bunch of time, there is a need for a pattern-based Square here, because it is difficult to fold into a third one!
The picture and the first photo show a series of 2 diagonal valleys folded in each corner, folding the edge of the paper towards the first and second rows to determine the height of the row.
Technically you just need the second diagonal to get the square, but you end up with the first fold, so why not do it now?
Doing all the corners can help you line up on both sides of the long horizontal line.
The second photo shows the pattern starting from the back, as the bottom of the pattern is folded horizontally to fit the pattern that has been folded down at the top to form the line at the top.
The height of the three rows should be equal!
Expand and you will see the main bones of the pattern.
There is no skill in this part, just a lot of folding.
You have to keep the Valley folding the edges of the paper to every vertical line on the paper so you can create one (
If my chart is perfect, it\'s square)
A grid that intersects a diagonal.
This feeling is natural until you reach the horizontal edge of the paper (
Lines shown in the first photo).
After that, you begin to fold the edges of the paper, continue to align with the vertical line, and fold from the edge to the center (second photo).
It is a good idea to continue extending the diagonal pattern to a closed flap.
You fold like this all the time (Photos 3 and 4). . .
Until the end, you expand to the pattern shown in the final photo.
I suggest that any decoration of the paper be completed before the end of this step.
You can see where the pattern will be, but the paper is still flat.
This is the hardest part.
The picture shows what you end up needing to fold in the final pattern, superimposed on the mesh you fold.
The mountain folds are red and the valley folds are blue.
The first two rows of the pattern are actually a magic ball pattern, which is a tile pattern of the water bomb structure.
A water bomb on a single square paper folds into an isosceles triangle: Both sides are of the same length, in which case the bottom of the triangle is longer than the two sides.
The \"X\" part is the valley folds, and the two mountain folds bring the top and bottom edges into the center of the pattern.
The water bomb that interacts with each other looks like> arrows (
Pointing up and down)
Magic Ball when tile.
In order to make the shape of the lampshade stronger, the next line was modified.
I think it makes the finished product look more complicated and interesting.
You have a winding pattern, but the water bomb shape above limits the top, so you have a Y-shaped valley fold inside the five-angle Arrow
Like a raised shape
The initial prototype I showed in the first photo drew the line online.
Starting with the corners, starting with the edges of the pattern, you need to induce the paper into the shape you want.
It was slow at first.
The second photo shows lines that barely gather together on the bottom line pattern.
Don\'t try to fold too tightly because the paper is hard to fold well --
Folded in half, relatively flat in the other half.
If you\'re using the children\'s drawing paper I use, it could tear if you pinch too tight too early!
When the pattern is combined together, try to pinch the raised arrow shape to be sharper (5th photo)
And flip to the opposite side of the pattern and clip the water bomb and Y-
The shape at the bottom of the lowest row is clearer.
You will find that the pattern can really be put together in the end, or even folded flat (
Last photo, weighted down with scissors).
By the way, this is the shape you should have when everything is good and flat.
I decided to fold the small closed flap in succession with the pattern so that it would not stretch out and would fit perfectly into the opposite edge.
Check to make sure all your folds follow the pre-
Fold the line, the vertices are very good, very sharp.
Now you are ready to form the lampshade!
You have a nice texture pattern right now, but you need to have something more like a ball.
The first step is to glue the closed flap to the relative edge of the pattern to make it equal to the cylinder.
I used glue (first photo)
Because I ran out of the rest of the glue and made a cardboard cat scratch.
I don\'t think it will work, but gradually glue with your fingers and press each adhesive part for 10 seconds and work down from the upper row and the glue stays the same!
Closed flaps nested behind the edges of the pattern that should be, forming a continuous pattern around the cylindrical tube.
The second picture is the shape, which is not very stable.
Mark the place you want to punch in with a pencil.
Then punch holes in the top of the cylinder and let the rope go through.
This is shown in my 3rd photos.
I have a mini punch that is perfect for punching holes, but you can use what you have on hand.
Draw your rope through your hole.
The use of tapestries needles has helped make the process more smooth.
My rope is like embroidered floss, with no shine, found on the craft aisle next to the embroidered floss.
I chose to position the loose end of the rope where my glue seam is (4th photo).
Once you put your end where you want it, tighten the end according to your needs and tie the knot.
Trim and gather the ends in the shade.
Tying the top together helps keep the shadow in its shape.
The last photo shows the final form, next to a smaller prototype I made with two A4 sheets of paper.
Actually, in the tutorial I found, the parts from shadows to lights are not always clear.
Even though we have an LED bulb, I don\'t want to risk a fire by having the bulb socket touch the paper shadow directly.
Before threading on my lampshade, I put the bulb holder through an old CD.
Can be seen from the bottom view (1st photo)
I didn\'t pull the top of the lamp as tight as possible because I knew I had a small \"shelf\" to hang the curtains.
The pattern fits well with the CD shape.
I hope to have a more professional
Looks like a light bulb holder, maybe you can screw it heavy
Measure the wire into a ring with the inner ring of the bulb, but this is both simple and effective.
The CD did make weird neon rainbow patterns on the floor under the suspension, but when I was a kid I would love this one!
Our fixture hardware was damaged by paint overlap.
White paint on black wires.
I don\'t have a knit spool at hand, and I think it\'s the easiest job, so I cut off one of my own bobbins with 6 toothpicks to make them shorter and shorter, and the tip is getting less and less sharp, fold them in half with approximately equal tape
Interval the pattern and paste it into a loop. I knitted an I-
Tie the lights together with some remaining rope, cycle around each toothpick post in turn from inside the circle until there are two rings around each post, and then with the help of my tapestry needle, draw the bottom ring at the top so that I can continue the rope by adding another line.
I put I-
Put the wire into a wider tube, feed it through the wire, stretch it, tie it a few centimeters away from the bulb holder inside the lampshade, tie the top to \"Domino, there are wires inside.
Finally hang up the lights!
For me, that means standing on the chair and connecting the Domino (
Is to twist two lines)
And through the ring on the ceiling, adjust the angle of the hanging lampshade, hide the seam in the least positionvisible angle.
The final photo shows the lights on and off.
Please follow the instructions if you buy a new suspension.
I tried other shapes I have seen, including different possible shapes from the magic ball base. The 4-row and many-
Pillar magic ball shape (
The first photo is tied together)
Although the modified bottom row is used, it will not be in good shape if it is tied only to one end.
The use of less, larger pattern elements can make the shape stronger.
I see a good twist pattern used in different types of hanging lampshades and it\'s easy to find from the bottom.
I can issue instructions on request.
The big white flat module is a big version of this mode, just like the principle of continuing the bottom line up of my lamp.
The small red module is a suspended zigzag base opened wide at the bottom, with only two lines.
We don\'t need this light, but it can be seen on top of the table or kitchen.
In the first photo, I modified the model with the blue bottom to make a sconce shade.
We have a light bulb with a small angle on our wall (
About 2 cm of the wires stick together from a rough hole in the Wall)
, There is repainted gray paint on the bulb.
I want to cover it and then use the pattern I like (
Buildings that benefit from heavier paper).
However, I don\'t have enough space behind the bulb to close it in the shape of a tulip I \'ve seen.
I think the round shape helps the fixture to maintain shape and eliminate the pattern.
I start with the pattern I like, a typical accordion lampshade shape with a tortuous detail on the bottom, then adjust the top and create a small shelf in my hanging lampshade.
I showed the model prototype and its profile in 2nd and 3rd photos.
Since this prototype, I have slightly adjusted the scale to make the shape of the lamp longer, width: The height ratio has doubled, thus increasing the number of columns in the pattern.
I make holes, tie the top together with a rope, and then stick sconce shadows to the wall with masking tape that is only placed behind the top structure without making any holes in the wall.
It is light enough to hold there with just masking tape, and it spreads light and looks better than a bare bulb.
One drawback of this pattern, and why I don\'t release it alone, is that the semi-circle highlights any defects in the pattern, and it looks strange at the edge pressed on the wall, because they compress more than the part in the center of the pattern.
I \'ve thought about what else to do with the same frame, and outlined the idea for the vertex shape, but nothing else very primitive surfaced.
If I had a specific idea of the shape I wanted, it would be easier to figure out what needs to be done.
Once you make a mess of all these interlocking water bombs and see that this structure can be changed in other parts of the lamp structure, the sky is the limit to accommodate other needs!
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