light bar ambient lighting
You can light up the corridor, add faded glow effects behind your entertainment center, create new patterns in light graffiti, or simply add light sources to your house.
There are unlimited possibilities for light stick lighting, it all depends on you!
The parts are quite cheap and the items are quite easy.
You need to peel off the wire, weld the LEDs, and be able to use an electric drill.
Cheap and long Led
This project will add a warm glow to your house.
Once you buy the parts you need (
You may already have most of it)
Actually, it takes about 3 hours to put the bar together (
If you have no experience).
This structure is designed to teach with pictures and words.
Most of the images add notes with hints and information.
* I am not responsible for any damage, property loss or any other loss that occurred in this project.
You will work with electricity and should be careful.
Although the voltage and amps I use in this project are harmless (Not even feeling)
, Using a more powerful power supply, using hot objects (
Soldering Iron & hot glue gun)
Can cause damage.
* The components needed for the LED stick are quite cheap.
Don\'t be shocked by the number of required parts
Nothing is expensive, all of which are very common and easy to use.
You may have 3/4 of these things now.
Most of these parts were purchased at Home Depot and Los.
Metal wire cover (Light Bar)$5. 00 for (1)5\' bar.
I used to let people not stumble over a wire at home or in the office, and I changed it to my lamp strip.
You can also use wood, PVC pipes or other materials. (
Although I suggest something compact and neat).
Rubber insulation fixture (3)$1. 25 for 2 -
These are used to mount the light strip to the surface.
Electrical tape (1)$4. 00 for 66\' -
Used to fix the parts together and insulate the wires from the bar. Wet Rag -
Any fabric or sponge is OK, just soak it in the water and it can be used to clean the remaining solder on the soldering iron. LEDs (
18 lights a lamp strip)$10 for 100-
Choose any color you want.
I also recommend the use of faded LEDs.
You can use any voltage you want, although most colors are divided into two categories, 1. 9-2. 1v(
Red, orange, yellow), and 3. 0-3. 4v (
Green, blue, white).
The brightness is up to you, too MCD-18000mcd (Millicandelas)
Plenty of lighting at night, something like 25000mcd may be too bright for night time, but good for Focus Lighting (
Although 35000mcd or higher, the glow under the furniture can even be lighting during the day.
Real-Life stores are too expensive, so on EBay you can buy them for 1/20 of the price from Hong Kong.
I suggest the seller HKJE LED or LED-
HKHot glue gun $5-
Buy a lot of glue sticks because they put things in place and insulated. Power Supply (1)$1-
Even though the led is running on the DC, any power supply is OK.
Your voltage can be anything you want, but you have to choose your own resistance. (
The supply voltage should be higher than the led forward voltage, and the supply voltage of a lamp strip should be about 300 mA (
Millian is the maximum number of led you can have).
I got three supplies at a local charity for $3. Resistors (At Least 10)
I would suggest that resident plus pay $100 on EBay-
These can prevent the LED from accepting too much power.
It can convert the power supply of 9 V or 12 V to 3 v.
3 V voltage of LED.
I need a 150 ohm resistor for my 9 volt power supply (
Series 9 volts of 2 LEDs).
Calculate your @ ledcalc.
The common rating for coma is wattage, which simply means heat dissipation, you can always get a higher number of W than the recommended value, but never decrease.
Higher power levels cost a little bit higher and a little bigger, 1/2 Watts is OK in most cases unless you start using ultra-
High-power LEDs (
It\'s like 3-10W resistors).
Horn wire No. 20 (Around 8-10 feet)-
Used to connect the led to the power supply.
$10 soldering iron (1)-
Cheap, there should be one around everyone.
A month of normal operation of the company. Solder (1)
$ Month\'s Radio Shack-
Solder with flux.
Silver welding is recommended at 0.
022 \"thickness and pine core, easier to flow, more durable.
Used to connect the led to the speaker wire. Needle-nose Pliers -
For bending LED legs.
Quick disconnection of insulation (Optional)$2 for 12-
This is used to plug the power supply into the lamp strip easily.
You can weld the power cord directly to the speaker cord, but you always have to connect the cord. (
* Update, I recommend using 2 now.
5mm DC barrel plug connectors, they are more durable, easier to insert, and more connected.
It\'s half bought online.
Random, try eBay * Power Drill as usual (1)-
Ask a friend if you don\'t.
Drill bit (13/64)2)-$1. 50 for one.
Used to drill holes on the pole.
The 13/64 \"is the perfect size for the 5mm LED, which prevents them from passing through the holes and fixing them in the appropriate position. Wire Clippers -
Legs for cutting LEDs.
You can also use some small scissors. Awl -
What can you find for sure. Scissors -
For cutting speaker wires and electrical tape.
Wire stripping or knife-
Used to peel plastic insulation from speaker wires.
If you are new to led or soldering, I would recommend checking out this guide @ llamma.
My lamp strip is covered with metal wire.
It is designed to plug wires in to prevent people from tripping over them and unplug everything.
I chose metal because I wanted something durable.
You don\'t have to use metal like me or even a wire cover.
It would be great if you could find a piece of wood and drill holes on it!
The plastic wire channel works better and the drilling is easier.
I chose this because it is cheap, I have no experience when I do this guide, I want rigid bar, today I recommend plastic Channel, don\'t buy thin ones.
For me, it has a metal clip that just hits the top of the bar.
Just push it out with pliers.
Mark LEDSLight B. I prefer compact power supplies like cordless phones.
The laptop power supply is an amazing power supply, they are very cheap and can usually provide 3-5 amps (
This means about 230 led at most)
And regulated [
Usually super expensiveat 12v DC.
No matter what the end plug is, you can bet there are two lines in it: the positive and the negative.
I got three 9 volt power supplies locally for $3.
EBay has plenty of power options despite some search.
It takes 350 mA or more to power 18 LEDs.
MA determines the maximum number of led.
99% out of 5mm LEDs use 20 mA, so just multiply the number of LEDs by 0. 020A (18 LEDs * 0.
020 = 360 mA, it is technically overloaded, but it can still be used).
The speaker wire will deliver power from the power cord to the LED wire.
Decide Now which of your two speaker wires is your positive and which is your negative.
In general, the wire in red, yellow, white, or lining is a positive line, while the solid wire is a positive line (usually black)is negative.
After the next step, you will have two LEDs welded together with a resistor.
Just try to get them all in contact with the speaker wires, no matter which light lights up for you is your correct solution.
Quick disconnect this step is optional.
It makes it easy to plug in and unplug the light strip from the power supply.
If you do not want to use a quick disconnect device and want the power supply to be connected at all times, simply screw the speaker wires and the wires of the power supply together and weld them.
Wrap them with tape to keep anything short.
Quick disconnect there is a wire into it, usually you just crush it with pliers (Called crimp)
The wires stay where they are.
An optional purchase to skip this awl and welding method is a pair of roll-on pliers.
The normal pliers can\'t do the work for me, so I pierce them and weld them in place.
From now on experience, I strongly recommend buying only the roll-on pliers than this next awl welding method.
If you don\'t want to spend money, try this method, which is actually more powerful than a separate blank holder.
Because it is impossible to stick the solder to the quick disconnect (
Covered with plastic)
Melt it with the wire and you should cover the end of the wire with solder paste.
Plug the wire into quick disconnect.
Now hit The Awl on the top of the quick disconnect, which will pierce the shell and squeeze the metal and wires.
Follow it and insert the tip of the soldering iron into the hole to melt the solder paste.
There should be a very strong connection between the wire and the quick disconnect.
Finally, wrap any exposed area with tape.
Led like we used in this project has two legs.
Long Legs (
And a thin head)
And negative short legs (
The resistor is connected to the front leg (see picture)
Resistance welding is connected to the lead of the positive speaker.
The purpose of the resistance is to prevent LED overload (
They will not have one, become very hot and burn out permanently).
Guide with pictures.
Weld the LED together to bend the legs of each LED to a 90 degree angle.
Clamp the leg on the front so it is short, which is where the resistance will be connected.
These are all in series, which means the back to back of the led leg (postive-negative-positive).
See chart for visual illustrations.
Set the LEDs into the drill hole as this keeps them aligned and pointing in the same direction.
Let the legs meet and touch the soldering iron at the meeting point.
Touch your solder to the leg and it should melt on the leg that binds them together.
Now bend the front leg to U shape and repeat the resistance.
This connects them together to make management easier.
Weld them together.
After connecting the resistor to the front LED, weld the LEDs to the wire, remove the sheath from the front speaker wire, and weld the remaining resistor legs to the top.
Then remove the sheath from the negative speaker wire and weld the negative LED leg to it.
Now you can test if the led is on by plugging in the power supply.
Fix/insulation with hot glue put the LEDs and the newly connected wires into the rod and the LEDs into the hole.
Make sure there are no LED legs or exposed wires to the bar.
LEDs and wires naturally want to move around, so press the LEDs down with pliers so they flush with the holes and pour in a lot of hot glue waiting for it to dry.
Repeat this step 8 times and then it\'s time to get everything done.
Hope all your led lights up, your power supply has a strong connection to the speaker wires, and the hot glue keeps everything in place.
Now is the time to finish this lamp strip.
If you have everything set up on your light strip, cut out any extra wires and distribute the back end.
Wrap the end with tape just to keep it together.
If you find yourself doing a lot of these, one of the steps I don\'t introduce is called daisy chain.
Basically, you will quickly disconnect at both ends so that it can be powered on both sides.
Then you make a short (3 inch or so)
Plug the light bars end-to-end into each other\'s connector cables, and this chain can continue indefinitely.
If a quick disconnect on both sides of the lamp strip is a female plug, then there will be a female plug on both ends of your connector cable.
Put the slides back to the bar and close the light bar.
Reinsert the friction clamp and lock the slide in place.
The light bar should be completed.
Now you can choose where you want to put the bar itself.
The rubber insulation clip came in from here.
I like to use screws, but the nails are also good.
One clip is in the middle and two are at the end.
That\'s why we save 2 \"at each end of the strip, making it easy to attach to the surface.
The picture shows how to do this.
This is a step that can be used to change the appearance of the led.
If you feel your LEDs are too bright or the focus beam is too strong, you can polish the top of the LEDs to spread the light more evenly.
To buy some very good (600-1200grit)
Sandpaper, just rub the top of each LED.
You should have a smooth and fuzzy LED so that you can scatter the light more efficiently.
Now that you have finished your light bar, there are a lot of places to put it.
I put some in the back of the sofa, so there are green and blue lights in the back.
We also screwed them to the ceiling to illuminate the main lighting in our house.
For LAN parties (
Red and Blue rooms in the house, each with red and blue LEDs)
We put them in the corner, glowing along the walls for each team\'s room color, and the green LED light strip represents a neutral room with all the food and drinks.
Place these bars with your imagination, especially with refraction (glass)
Or reflective surface.
The point of this guide is the 5 feet bar, but any size bar is OK.
If you have any improvements to my approach or have good ideas on how to use the light bar, feel free to comment.