led light baton

by:EME LIGHTING     2020-03-28
One of my friends contacted me to ask if it was possible to make LED batons that flash red and blue like a police light.
His plan is to use these in his upcoming marching band performance.
In the initial inspection, it seems like an easy task to stick some LED tape to a few poles to make it flash. Easy, right?
After I stupidly agreed to accept the project, I realized that it would not be as simple as I originally thought.
These poles will be subject to repeated shocks and abuse.
All electronic products must be installed in aluminum bars including batteries and chargers.
The Poles must also be balanced in order to rotate in a predictable way when thrown into the air.
Parts List: Steps-
The up-converter Holder LED strip heat shrink does use some 3D printed parts I printed on the M3 mini, but with some ingenuity, you can create these parts in an old-fashioned way.
In order to create the flicker, I implemented a fixed number
Vibrator circuit.
It sounds complicated, but it is a simple circuit consisting of two PNP transistors, several resistors and a pair of capacitors.
The circuit keeps turning one side on and the other side off.
Change the timing of the flash by changing the value of the resistor.
I found that 20k Ohm is the ideal value for the desired flashing rate.
Since I don\'t have a resistance of 20k ohms, I used two resistors of 10k Ohms in series.
Of course, I could have filled the arduino here and made it programmable, but this is beyond the scope of the intended operation.
In addition, it will be more complex and expensive.
For the sake of simplicity, I used some bar Board to build the circuit.
Use Dremel and the cutting wheel to cut the strip board into small size.
Follow the schematic diagram and weld the components on the board.
Be sure to clip the leg of the assembly near the plate as much as possible.
It is important that the strip board be leveled so that it can be placed in the baton.
Most LED strip lights run at 12 V.
I only used a 18650 lithium ion battery in order to keep the light up (3. 7 V).
I used a boost converter to get the required voltage.
This device can withstand 3-
32V input and output 5-
35 V, improved 3 perfectly.
From the battery to the 7v of the voltage required to power the LED. While the step-
The inverter is relatively small and slightly too large to fit the baton tube.
I had to move the potentiometer and inductor to make it fit the tube.
Potentiometer (
Blue plastic box)was de-
Weld from the top of the plate and on the surface below the plate.
As this is a permeable assembly, no additional wires are required, simply fold and re-weld on the leads.
Once the potentiometer is moved to the bottom of the plate, the inductor coil can be moved.
This is a surface mount component, but don\'t let it scare you.
The left and right sides of the part have metal pads.
Apply heat to one side at the time of alternating back and forth.
Gently pry back the part when you heat it will pop up easily.
After the coil falls off, remove the remaining solder on the board and replace it with fresh solder.
This will make it easier to reconnect the inductor.
Weld the inductor back to the board and transfer it to the pad as much as possible.
The size of the pads is slightly too large, so there is some room for maneuver.
The components in the new residence temporarily connect the battery and set the output voltage.
To change the voltage, turn the potentiometer using a flat head screwdriver.
When the LED is connected to 12 v, they light up at a lower voltage.
To extend battery life as much as possible, I set the boost converter to 9. 75V.
These LEDs are very bright so 9.
The voltage of 75v is enough to make them visible.
On the other hand, the blue LED usually requires a higher voltage to turn on, while the red LED glows at a lower voltage.
In order for the electronics to hang in the baton, I modeled some of the parts to be printed.
The 18650 battery is located between the USB charger and the boost converter.
You know, I hope that the battery box used to hold the battery is not suitable for the tube.
So I cut the springs and contact pads and stick them to my 3D print parts.
When the battery contacts are glued to the appropriate position, it is time to install the 18650 lithium ion battery. ----WARNING----
Once the battery is installed, the wires will be chargedi. e. turned on.
Be careful not to short-circuit the battery lead, plug the battery into the housing, and apply some super glue on both parts and clip it together.
Take the time to make sure that the two parts are all in line.
If they are in the wrong arrangement, it is not suitable for the baton.
Weld the battery terminals to the charger board
Upper inverter board
Again, please be careful that the wires are charged.
With welded wires, plug them into the tank and glue them in place with hot glue.
It is important that the wire is located under the surface of the 3D printed part.
If not, they may be short-circuited on the metal tube when the assembly is inserted into the baton.
Add some hot glue to all welding connections to help prevent things moving around when the baton inevitably drops and flips.
Don\'t be crazy with hot glue, though.
The LED light strip I use is solid color, not RGB.
Because the goal is to have a flash baton in red and blue, the RGB bar is a waste.
I link to the LED strip I used in step 1, but should warn you that these are not the best quality.
Of course, they light up, but the strips are spliced together, not in a continuous length.
I bought two rolls of red and two rolls of blue;
There are three of the four 16-foot axis-
4 joints per roll.
Since I coat these in the heat shrink tube, I don\'t care about the joint;
But they are certainly not as waterproof as the packaging says.
I applied the LED light strip 180 degrees apart from each other to the baton.
The rubber strip is back glue, but it is weak glue.
When there are two LEDs on the baton, I wrap them up temporarily with some tape.
This helps to keep the led open through the rest of the Assembly.
Once the belt is open, Mark and drill a 1/4 hole for the LED wire to pass through.
I recommend pre-
Drill holes with a 1/8 \"bit first to prevent larger bits from moving around.
This hole should be about 4-
5 \"start at the end of the tube and center between the two LED strips.
Weld the length of the baton to the step outputup converter. -WARNING-
Nothing has changed, these are still alive!
Insulated the wires with tape or hot glue to prevent them from short-circuiting as you pass through the baton
This brings us to the next step.
Pass the wire through the baton and insert the battery module into the tube.
This should be a comfort if everything goes well, but not suitable.
Don\'t force in-
If it gets stuck, chances are you\'ll break it and have to start over.
I had to polish my house a little to get the right figure.
The grinding is mainly carried out around the glue seam, which is slightly bulging after being squeezed out from the glue.
Once installed, the glue will be in place.
Welding wires to extend the power of the flash light circuit and the power of the led (
Refer to the previous pseudo-schematic diagram).
These wires should be longer than the illustration of the hole we just drilled (
If the hole at the end of the baton is 4 \", The Wire should be 5-6\" long).
If the wires are not long enough, you will have a hard time finding them through this hole.
I tie the LED wires to the zipper to help them through the hole, but I\'ll use it no matter where you lie.
Weld the power cord in the battery to the power cord of the flash circuit and insulated with heat shrink.
Insert the flash light circuit into the baton and glue it in place.
Connect the LED power cord to the LED light strip and fix the hot glue in place.
These pads are fragile and can easily be separated from the pads.
After connecting the two LED light strips, add a layer of tape to the connection.
This will indicate to the user the end of the switch on and keep the wire in place.
Unlike the LED light strip I purchased, this transparent heat shrink tube is fantastic.
It has a good shrinkage ratio and is thick, but the most important thing is very clear.
Once narrowed, when observing the baton from 1 feet or 2 metres away, it is difficult to tell if it is there.
Roll out a clear heat shrink tube, about inches older than the baton.
When you go, wrap the heat shrink on the baton and remove the temporary tape wrap from step 4.
Pick up your favorite hot gun and start to shrink.
Please note that this is a relatively large heat shrink that takes some time to shrink.
Take the time, don\'t be too hot, you have the risk of damaging your internal electronics.
Pay special attention not to overheat the end of the included battery.
I found that holding a hot gun at an upward angle, rotating the baton, works best.
If you go so far, hope you have a command stick that lights up with a function.
Be sure to check if each part is working in the entire assembly, and if something is not working, it is not an easy-to-disassemble device.
It\'s an interesting project even if you\'re not a color guard.
As you can see in the video, these guys are enjoying their fun as lightsabers.
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