led disco light in a jar!
For anyone who has just started using led, welding, and electronics, here\'s a good, simple note.
It uses basic components and is not confused with a micro-controller or timer (
As fun as those! )
If you have all the parts ready, you can build one at night. But what is it?
The LED disco light in the jar is exactly what the name means.
There are a dozen RGB LEDs in the Mason jar, frantically changing the color with a completely random pattern.
It\'s a neat lighting effect for your next party, or you can use it to entertain the baby for a while!
See the last page for the video.
You will need these tools to build LED disco cans: soldering iron and welding hot gun or a hand-held cutter \"helper\" clip on the lighting side (
But it makes things much easier! )small needle-
Manufacturing kit for cutting perfboard or PC boarda sharp knifePC board (
Only when you are doing PC board)
My LED disco light uses 24 rgb led.
Depending on the size of the jar you have, your jar may be used more or less.
24 LEDs are arranged in 12 branches, each consisting of a current
Limit resistance in all series and two LEDs.
According to the data sheet of the LED, each LED receives about 3 v.
Don\'t exceed this value!
These 12 branches are then connected in parallel so that each branch receives about 6v (
Nominal amount at both ends of 3V resistance).
You might want to start by using a 800 LED \"Frost\"
Scatter the light a little with sandpaper.
I separate LEDs from each branch at random distances so that they are placed randomly when they are placed in the jar.
Try to make all kinds of branches, but also make sure they are in the jar!
Assembly is relatively simple.
Starting with the resistance, twist a little wire around a lead and weld it down.
This is where the \"hand of aid\" clip comes in handy;
Debris tends to move around!
Then Weld one LED to the other end of the wire.
Weld another wire and then weld the second LED.
Finally, weld on the last line so it can go all the way back to the resistance.
This seems obvious to anyone who has played led, but for beginners, keep this in mind: observe polarity!
The LEDs only glow when connected in the right direction, and if you connect back, nothing will explode, they will definitely not glow, and you will be sad.
Led leads are long (positive)
When I make a disco light, I make sure that the long lead is facing the resistance on each branch.
You should have some branches now (in my case, 12).
Place a short heat shrink on each resistor.
This helps to keep the wires together and make it easier to test and assemble.
Reduce the heat shrink with a hot gun or lighter.
Be careful not to burn anything if you use a lighter!
It\'s a good idea to test each branch to make sure it works before proceeding!
The easiest way is to use the breadboard and the power supply, but you can connect each branch to the battery separately.
This part will be easy if you are lucky enough to have the PC board etching settings.
Instructions when using the PC board: 1.
Cut a piece of copper-
Bag cardboard suitable for the neck of the jar. 2. Using an etch-resist pen (
Or in my case, my wife no longer wants a bottle of nail polish)
Draw two concentric circles around the outer edge of the PC board.
Make sure there is enough room in the center to install the battery stand! 3.
Etching board 4.
Drill 1/32 holes around the circuit board at a fixed interval on the track, drill a pair of holes per branch, and the battery/switch drill an additional set of holes. 5.
As shown in the figure, drill three more holes for mounting the bracket and passing through the circuit board.
Instructions when using the perfboard: 1.
Cut a perfboard that can be placed on the neck of the jar. 2.
Drill three holes in about the same place on the board as on the PC board.
You should now drill holes in the lid so you can use the PC board as a template.
Place the PC board on the lid and follow through the holes you drill.
In my case it was easy because the lid was split into two pieces on the Mason jar.
The diameter of the drill hole is the same as the hole on the PC board.
Then open a hole for the switch.
I used a rectangular switch so I had (very carefully)
Cut holes for it with a sharp knife.
If your switch is round, you can just drill a hole.
At this point, you can also install the switch and connect the bracket.
To prevent the switch from moving, I stuck it in with hot glue.
The holder connects the PC board to the cover and provides spacing for the switch.
The length of the selection bracket matches the height of the switch.
In this case, 25mm brackets were selected to provide sufficient clearance for the switch, which extends about 22mm below the lid.
Interesting/tricky part here.
Weld each branch to the PC board and observe the polarity again.
You may want to mark each circle as a \"positive\" and a \"negative\" track in advance so that you don\'t end up with a reverse weld branch.
Try alternating branches so you don\'t have any LED next to the other branch.
If you are using a perfboard, first glue the branches in place and then weld the \"track\" around the board with two circles to connect the branches.
Once all the branches are welded well, you can use a hot adhesive battery stand in the middle.
Make sure it does not cover any drilling holes. Almost done!
Now we wire the switch.
Take the 9v battery card Buckle (
Or, if your battery seat has a lead instead of a snap, the lead on the battery seat)
Weld the black to the negative track on the PC board.
Pass the red hole through the large hole drilled on the PC board and at most one terminal on the switch. Solder in on -
It does not matter which terminal it is welded.
Grab a wire and weld it to another terminal on the switch.
Weld it through the hole to the right track of the PC board.
Install some batteries and turn it on!
It should be on now.
Once you know everything is OK, you can attach the lid to the PC board.
Align the bracket and insert the screw from the other side of the PC board.
Everything should be closely integrated.
Now just put the finished light array into the jar and tighten the lid.
Go ahead, open it and make sure it still works! Oooooh, shiny!
If you like to see LEDs through glass, consider this project.
However, if you like a little mystery, you can use a glass cream spray or a glass etching cream to frost the glass.
I used the sand-glass icing spray.
The frost inside the jar hides the mechanism of the disco light, helping to spread the light.
The spray inside the jar was messy.
Use masking tape to protect the outside and spray a coat in the jar every few minutes according to the instructions on the jar.
You may find that the frost spray did not dry very quickly.
I quickly dried the icing on the inside with a hot gun.
It takes several coats to hide the internal organs.
Using a white wire and painting the battery holder White further blurs the contents of the jar. You\'re done!
Even if you buy all the new parts, the cost of making this lamp is less than $10.
It was a great party to give away as a gift or entertain the baby (
You can see it in the picture below! )
Supplier list: led: eBay, seller is \"Topper rights 88\"
An electronics store in southern Ontario)
Little Mason jar: free from my mother-in-law (thanks! )