How to Make a 70\'s String Lamp

by:EME LIGHTING     2020-06-09
I decided to write this instruction for three reasons. 1)
As far as I know, there are no other instructions on how to make such a fixture, 2)
I can use laser cutting machine in my school, which makes the process easier, 3)
I have a set of Laurel Lamp base that lacks the glass mushroom tone and I need to replace it.
I\'m sorry I can\'t give what I think is completely tricky-what I\'m introducing here is how people will create a string light for their personal needs based on some considerations.
According to my findings, there is only one book talking about anything related to this topic.
This is a brochure called \"3D Stringcraft\", which is a leisure craft 54 (
As far as I know, a series has 55 titles on various crafts)
Search Publishing House, London (
So they call it organic glass. .
Please let me know if you know any other books.
Your lamp is a lampshade, a hanging lamp, or even a sculpture.
The hardware should be purchased first so that the string light can be built for it-remember that the string light will be your custom design and the hardware will not.
Lighting kits for all types of fixtures can be purchased from home improvement stores or online, but one of my favorites is HEMMA from Ikea.
This series includes wires that can be hung and table lamps that can build string shadows for them.
At Ikea, you can resist the urge to buy a lamp for your home . . . . . . My hardware is the base of my Laurel light.
This is acrylic, plexiglass or other material (wood is cool).
Next has to choose this because all parts of the lamp will be slotted together, and although some kind of material says its thickness is 3/16, it doesn\'t mean that when you take it home, it would actually be 3/16.
It is usually thinner, so the parts are too loose to be assembled without bonding.
The material must be actually measured before the actual design layout.
When choosing materials, you need to first consider what look you want-a real 70 disco, glam, or an updated vintage look.
Whatever you choose, I recommend to stay away from mirror acrylic because when mirroring the front and back (
This will show as this type of light is not available now)
It will be dark gray or black.
I chose white acrylic.
In addition, it is necessary to consider what type of string the light string.
It needs to be known so that the depth of the gap can be correct, not too deep or too shallow.
This is how you will design the lights and how to cut them.
I designed mine with my rhino, converted it into Adobe Illustrator, and then sent it to the laser cutter as per the school\'s specifications.
I\'m sorry I can\'t give you more information here, but everyone can use different software and each laser cutter reads different file types-one should determine the specifications of the laser cutter, then move on.
Laser cutting technicians should be able to advise you on this and the next step.
You may be cutting by hand-if you do that means \"lighting hardware\", don\'t resist the urge to buy Ikea fixtures this time and forget the whole thing.
This is where you take the hardware and materials and decide how they fit together.
For my light, the curtains will be placed on the base.
The base has a ring of 3 3/8 wide and then a flange of 4 1/8 wide.
So I want the shadow to have a hole that the ring will pass through, and then it is on the flange-but the ribs that support the string cannot interfere with the flange.
I made two discs that support the ribs: both have a diameter of 5 1/8 and each has a notch-which means when the ribs (
There is also a \"gap \")
Each disc is solid and has a hole of 3 3/8 in diameter to install the ring.
For hanging lights, you will have an open bottom disc (
For inserting bulbs)
There is a hole in the top and the hardware can pass through.
Therefore, it has the required height for the lamp (
This will not change during the calculation)and the width.
For my shadow, I raise an 18-inch ruler on my lamp holder, decided on a shadow about 17-inch wide and 7-inch-about the scale of my mushroom shadow try to recreate.
So I start with my 5 1/8 \"equal to 4 5/8\" disc because there is \"slot\" on each side \"(
5 1/8 \"-\"-\"= 4 5/8 \").
My gap is 1/8 \"deep, too deep, I will make them 1/16\" deep \".
The deep notch is done deep, which is about right, but for thicker string material, the deep notch is likely to be deeper.
Any number of gaps is OK, but I will stick to an even number.
Remember, this number will be divided by the big gap in the middle.
The number of gaps depends on you-the more gaps, the more dense the string of lights will be.
I have 68 gaps divided by the big ones above and below-68/2 = 34.
Assembly should be fairly simple.
If you cut the material correctly, it should be tightly and securely sewn together without glue.
If the lamp needs to be glued and you need the glue that is formulated for your material, I suggest you follow the direction of the manufacturer, especially in terms of drying/curing time.
If the lamp parts are very loose, the hot glue can fix it well on most materials.
I use the traditional get-started knot fixed with white glue to tie on and off, so this is permanent, however, if you are using a fishing line, you may want to use something like a digital eight knot, because a get started knot can damage fishing and cause failure.
It would also help if you put a small hole where it can be tied and tied.
If one takes a rib and makes three holes-top, bottom and middle-this will cover all the bundles.
This is where things get weird.
I have seven ribs in the shade.
There are 68 gaps in each rib and a larger gap.
This is because when the lights are strung up, you don\'t want to be tied up after each round.
Therefore, the rope is tight at the Notch 1 rib 1 (1/1)
Then enter the big gap 2 (L/2)then to 1/3 -
L/4-1/5-L/6-1/7 then to L/1.
This lasts until you fill all the gaps in the big gap, and then you tie it down, start over and flip the shadows over.
You can\'t work from top to bottom because the layering of strings that create interesting patterns will be lost.
You can only work in the middle of the light.
To create this up and down, from small to large gaps, it can only be achieved by having odd ribs, no matter how many or seven you want.
The easiest way to string is to tie tightly at the top (
This is 1/1 now)
And work around (1/1 – L/2 -1/3 -
Rotate the lamp on the table-so one person wraps the rope around the lamp until it reaches the middle and then ties the rope up.
Now turn the lights over and start over.
Re-read the previous step if not sure.
I hope I have given you enough information to make your own lights.
The ribs of this lamp must be made of odd numbers, but other styles can be made in other configurations, and I hope you can get some inspiration from this manual to explore this!
I really need to paint the Base White and install the wire so I can open it.
Remember, if you have made something amazing with a laser cutter, please let me know and I would love to show the laser cutter on my blog.
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