hijack rgb flood light with arduino or esp8266

by:EME LIGHTING     2020-04-09
So I found some great little RGB floodlights on Amazon and after working on their guts I realized you could connect them directly to arduino and esp8266 and
I now use two of them as the Focus Lighting in the living room and set them up for certain scenes.
I use openhab running on Raspberry pi to control them and I can even control them with Amazon Echo (US)
Although this is a little out of scope for this note, I would like to have time to write it down!
Hope you like it, this is my first teaching in a long time, so please let me know what you think.
The parts list is as follows: 1.
10w RGB flood light: Ebay (UK), Ebay (US), Ebay (China)2. ESP8266-
Module 12: Ebay (UK), Ebay (US), Ebay (China)3. LD1117 3.
3v Regulatory Authority: Ebay (UK), Ebay (US), Ebay (China)4.
100 uF capacitor: Ebay (UK), Ebay (US), Ebay (China)5.
12V 1A DC power supply: Ebay (UK), Ebay (US), Ebay (China)6.
Selection of resistance (
I used 10k but you can really do it with anything)(
I have attached links to multiple sites as prices change regularly, so please go around and be sure to check out Amazon and ebay)
Full disclosure: I do get very little commission if you buy through the link above, but I will never recommend a link to a product that I have not used myself.
This project is not designed to make money. Thank you :-)
This special floodlight is a simple spiral design.
The chassis consists of three aluminum parts that are all screwed down.
Removing the top part that holds the lens in place will show the PCB with LED array and control circuit.
The first thing I do is to determine which transistor controls which color array.
Hopefully the manufacturer doesn\'t change much between board revisions, which means you can copy the image above and weld the wires directly to them.
To make it easier for you, I have color codes for red, green and blue.
Interestingly, the transistor that controls the red LED is connected to the existing micro-controller through a resistor, so I left it in the circuit.
This step is also important to remove the existing control components from the PCB with a heat gun and some tweezers, as shown in the picture above.
Removing the IR receiver is not absolutely necessary, but I think I can use it in other projects.
Next, just Weld on some PWM pins connected to the transistor and poke them into another part of the light case, which is where we are going next.
I have attached a schematic of this section because it says more clearly than I do what you need to do.
Basically, red, green and blue LEDs are connected to pins 12, 14 and 15 of ESP8266 with a 10k resistor.
Then connect the ESP Power Circuit according to the schematic, in this photo it shows that I have welded it directly to the power/drive board of the led, but I ended up changing the direction, did not manage to catch another photo.
The idea here is to keep everything as compact as possible as it needs to be installed inside the chassis.
To achieve this I align the resistors with the wires and cover them with heat shrink tubes.
Please avoid my mistake and do not weld the resistance directly to ESP.
I found that it made them do a real online stitching than I did (as in wire-resistor-wire-
Esp not wireresistor-esp).
Also, this photo looks a little different from the schematic, I didn\'t use pin 15 at first, which is an error because pin 15 is excellent in pwm. Love that pin. It rules.
Write code for your ESP using the method you like!
You can really choose to control it as much as you want, and there are a lot of great people out there doing amazing things with ESP.
My special route is to use the MQTT home server in the form of openHAB, then the light will log in and listen to the color command.
Using this method can also make it very easy for me to control using Amazon Alexa and google home. (
As I said before, I would like to be able to write instructures for this process as I have had a great time but at the moment most of my free time is building a new site
This may involve tutorials for these sections)).
I have attached the code to this \"visible\" above (
Or below, no matter where it appears).
I have to say that I used to only develop for ESP8266 in arduino IDE, but since I have started this particular project, I will definitely be converted to a Lua script, when uploading and debugging, they are great and much less stressful.
I did write a program in arduino a long time ago that did the following: ESP boot, unable to connect to wifi, start access point mode to connect to phone, automatically open the browser with color control page (basic html)
In the page, you can also choose to connect it to the router.
Once it\'s on the network, any control system can be programmed to send http requests very easily.
If I could find the code somewhere, I would upload it, but recently I created a new PC so that the file can be on any drive in this place.
To insulate all the components, I wrapped them all up with PVC tape.
This step has to be especially careful, I did burn out one of my voltage regulators when I didn\'t pay attention.
Also, I found that keeping the wires longer would make this step easier because all the distortions involved screwing everything back together.
Place the lights where you like, plug them in with a 12v power supply and leave! !
If you don\'t like the prism effect of the lens, it is easy to remove, which will emit light that is less concentrated and more general.
Turning the lens back also has some very good results.
In the photo, you can see that I use it to highlight the nixie clock that I really like.
Thanks for reading!
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