giant reclaimed timber led floor lamp w/ music reactive leds
by：EME LIGHTING
2020-10-25
This instruction explains the steps to make a modern industrial LED floor lamp with recycled wood beams and steel.
I made this lamp to match the modern industrial style of brick and wood loft.
I\'m so excited about how it came out-hope you guys like it too!
My friend Jonny Lambert and I (
Build YouTube channel from Jonny)
So when I say \"we\", I mean this person.
\"The lamp was made in 60 years --
Old recycled Douglas fir beams and 1/4 \"steel. A 480-
The LED matrix is embedded in the beam and includes a controller that can switch between solid light in various white tones, and the reaction mode of the LED matrix to react to music or other sounds in the environment (like my voice).
By watching a video of the materials I made to record the build process, the reaction mode is the most experienced: 6 ft.
Recycled beams-simply Google the recycled wood in your area and you may find a source of 1/4 \"steel plates, 20 feet long, 8 wide\"-
Again, search for a steel yard in 4x4 Wood in your area (one 8\' board)
1/4 \"lock nuts1/4\" threaded rodSK6812 wwa led light strip: Music controller: 5 v LED power supply: white acrylic sheet (for diffusers)
: Shaper Origin: we used Shaper Origin to create a cut in combination with a traditional router
Used for the LED strip in the beam and cut the matching white acrylic resin as a diffuser for the LED.
However, you can easily use the edge rails with traditional routers, and even use the foerstner drill bit on the drill bit and the chisel to carve out the cavity for the LEDs in the beam.
The origin of the shaping machine can be considered as handheld CNC (
It\'s more like a computer though.
Visual assistance router.
I decided to use it as a router to create an exact
Shape cavity of led for old twisted and cracked wood beam.
The origin is a particularly good tool for this task, because it will be difficult to manipulate the beam to the traditional CNC, with the origin, I can bring the CNC to the beam.
Also, I can use the same cutting file to create a matching acrylic diffuser that can be installed by pressure into the cavity in the beam.
The cavity is 30 \"x 5\" and accepts a 6x80 array of SK6812 WWA individually controllable led (
Made of 96 LED/m bars).
After cutting the outer perimeter to 1/8 \"deep with the origin, I used a standard router with the bottom cleaning bit to cut out about 1/8\" rectangular illustrations from the outer perimeter, leave a rabbet for the 1/8 thick white acrylic diffuser.
I also cut the acrylic diffuser with the origin.
By using the same file as I used to cut the hollow cavity of the beam, but switching to an external cut and offset it by 1/100, I was able to cut an acrylic panel with a pressure fit for the beam. (
This is very useful if you need to replace the led. )
We bought a 20-foot x 10 steel plate at the local steel factory.
However, we could have saved a lot of work. and some money)
Match the width of the 8 \"beam by purchasing the 8\" wide sheet.
Because we bought the wrong width, we had to cut all the legs into 8 \"wide.
The first step is to cut the hind legs.
See attached sketch for the angle and general shape of the leg.
We used a 30 degree tilt on the light (
Or 60 degrees to the floor), so made a 30-
Degrees are cut at one end of each hind leg and straight cut at the other end.
The length will depend on the size of the beam.
The easiest way to find out the answer is to keep the hind legs on the beam and mark where they are on your eyes and then use the mark (
Dry Erase or sharpie)
Mark the position where the hind legs overlap with the beam.
Then take the steel hind legs to the drilling machine (
Or use a hand drill with a center punch to mark the point to be drilled).
In the area where your marked hind legs overlap with the beam, drill four holes in a square pattern.
Then clip the hind legs on the beam, pre-
Drill holes on the beam to match the holes and connect the hind legs to the beam using lag screws.
Now to the front leg.
First cut 20 degrees at the low end (
Or 70 degrees from the ground)of each leg.
This angle is sharper than the hind legs, so the light extends to the edge of the front leg and projects light in the area next to it.
Now take the partially cut front legs to the beam and clip them in the appropriate position so you can mark the cut at the top of each front leg.
Again, the length will vary depending on the beam size, so you really just need to lift the leg up and see where it is on the right side of your eye.
This is definitely a job for two people (
Even the work of three people, depending on the person involved).
Cut the legs where you mark them, then drill four holes on the steel legs and attach them to the lights.
In addition, drill three holes at the low end of each front leg, parallel to the floor, for connecting the feet.
To make the feet, we used the scrap 4x4 wood we found in the steel plant trash can. I cut six (6)
8 \"length and use wood glue from these (
The length of each leg is 3 8 \").
We then fixed the 4x4 feet between the front leg and the steel plate of the hind leg using the lag screw.
Finally, for lateral stability, we drilled the holes of two threaded rods in the middle of the front leg (
Across two steel plates).
We use a angle grinder to cut the screw bars into the right size and connect them with a lock nut.
To prepare the light beam of the LEDs, I used an 18 \"3/8 long\" spiral drill bit to drill from the LED cavity to the back of the lamp so that the wire could pass through it.
I used the SK6812 WWA individually controllable led and combined the affordable off-the-
Shelf SP016E LED controller with RF remote control with music reaction mode, Chase mode and solid color mode. (
Note: these are similar to the WS2811 and WS2812 LED light bars and can also be used if you want rgb led. )
Since I designed it for my own attic, the music reaction/sound response mode can\'t do as this lamp can.
It has to work and also looks like a normal light.
With this in mind, I used the SK6812 warm White/cool white/amber LED light strip instead of the RGB LED light strip.
In solid color mode, the led can be adjusted through the remote control to emit a variety of shades of white for a sophisticated modern look that hides when you switch the lights to music visualization mode
I cut 6 LED strips of length (
About 80 led each)
, And weld them in a snake, create a 6x80 LED matrix in the lamp.
I weld a couple of feet of extension cords to the power supply, ground and control lines and pass them through the holes I cut to the back of the lamp with a spiral drill bit, and I connect them to the spadee controller.
It\'s time to open it and enjoy it!
I think the design ended up being an interesting combination of old and new.
It\'s industrial, but it\'s future (
Especially when the lights respond to your voice).
When running properly, it will drop a beautiful light in the room, it can also release its hidden party face, even when the light seems to go out, will begin to react to their voices with unsuspecting friends.
I made this lamp to match the modern industrial style of brick and wood loft.
I\'m so excited about how it came out-hope you guys like it too!
My friend Jonny Lambert and I (
Build YouTube channel from Jonny)
So when I say \"we\", I mean this person.
\"The lamp was made in 60 years --
Old recycled Douglas fir beams and 1/4 \"steel. A 480-
The LED matrix is embedded in the beam and includes a controller that can switch between solid light in various white tones, and the reaction mode of the LED matrix to react to music or other sounds in the environment (like my voice).
By watching a video of the materials I made to record the build process, the reaction mode is the most experienced: 6 ft.
Recycled beams-simply Google the recycled wood in your area and you may find a source of 1/4 \"steel plates, 20 feet long, 8 wide\"-
Again, search for a steel yard in 4x4 Wood in your area (one 8\' board)
1/4 \"lock nuts1/4\" threaded rodSK6812 wwa led light strip: Music controller: 5 v LED power supply: white acrylic sheet (for diffusers)
: Shaper Origin: we used Shaper Origin to create a cut in combination with a traditional router
Used for the LED strip in the beam and cut the matching white acrylic resin as a diffuser for the LED.
However, you can easily use the edge rails with traditional routers, and even use the foerstner drill bit on the drill bit and the chisel to carve out the cavity for the LEDs in the beam.
The origin of the shaping machine can be considered as handheld CNC (
It\'s more like a computer though.
Visual assistance router.
I decided to use it as a router to create an exact
Shape cavity of led for old twisted and cracked wood beam.
The origin is a particularly good tool for this task, because it will be difficult to manipulate the beam to the traditional CNC, with the origin, I can bring the CNC to the beam.
Also, I can use the same cutting file to create a matching acrylic diffuser that can be installed by pressure into the cavity in the beam.
The cavity is 30 \"x 5\" and accepts a 6x80 array of SK6812 WWA individually controllable led (
Made of 96 LED/m bars).
After cutting the outer perimeter to 1/8 \"deep with the origin, I used a standard router with the bottom cleaning bit to cut out about 1/8\" rectangular illustrations from the outer perimeter, leave a rabbet for the 1/8 thick white acrylic diffuser.
I also cut the acrylic diffuser with the origin.
By using the same file as I used to cut the hollow cavity of the beam, but switching to an external cut and offset it by 1/100, I was able to cut an acrylic panel with a pressure fit for the beam. (
This is very useful if you need to replace the led. )
We bought a 20-foot x 10 steel plate at the local steel factory.
However, we could have saved a lot of work. and some money)
Match the width of the 8 \"beam by purchasing the 8\" wide sheet.
Because we bought the wrong width, we had to cut all the legs into 8 \"wide.
The first step is to cut the hind legs.
See attached sketch for the angle and general shape of the leg.
We used a 30 degree tilt on the light (
Or 60 degrees to the floor), so made a 30-
Degrees are cut at one end of each hind leg and straight cut at the other end.
The length will depend on the size of the beam.
The easiest way to find out the answer is to keep the hind legs on the beam and mark where they are on your eyes and then use the mark (
Dry Erase or sharpie)
Mark the position where the hind legs overlap with the beam.
Then take the steel hind legs to the drilling machine (
Or use a hand drill with a center punch to mark the point to be drilled).
In the area where your marked hind legs overlap with the beam, drill four holes in a square pattern.
Then clip the hind legs on the beam, pre-
Drill holes on the beam to match the holes and connect the hind legs to the beam using lag screws.
Now to the front leg.
First cut 20 degrees at the low end (
Or 70 degrees from the ground)of each leg.
This angle is sharper than the hind legs, so the light extends to the edge of the front leg and projects light in the area next to it.
Now take the partially cut front legs to the beam and clip them in the appropriate position so you can mark the cut at the top of each front leg.
Again, the length will vary depending on the beam size, so you really just need to lift the leg up and see where it is on the right side of your eye.
This is definitely a job for two people (
Even the work of three people, depending on the person involved).
Cut the legs where you mark them, then drill four holes on the steel legs and attach them to the lights.
In addition, drill three holes at the low end of each front leg, parallel to the floor, for connecting the feet.
To make the feet, we used the scrap 4x4 wood we found in the steel plant trash can. I cut six (6)
8 \"length and use wood glue from these (
The length of each leg is 3 8 \").
We then fixed the 4x4 feet between the front leg and the steel plate of the hind leg using the lag screw.
Finally, for lateral stability, we drilled the holes of two threaded rods in the middle of the front leg (
Across two steel plates).
We use a angle grinder to cut the screw bars into the right size and connect them with a lock nut.
To prepare the light beam of the LEDs, I used an 18 \"3/8 long\" spiral drill bit to drill from the LED cavity to the back of the lamp so that the wire could pass through it.
I used the SK6812 WWA individually controllable led and combined the affordable off-the-
Shelf SP016E LED controller with RF remote control with music reaction mode, Chase mode and solid color mode. (
Note: these are similar to the WS2811 and WS2812 LED light bars and can also be used if you want rgb led. )
Since I designed it for my own attic, the music reaction/sound response mode can\'t do as this lamp can.
It has to work and also looks like a normal light.
With this in mind, I used the SK6812 warm White/cool white/amber LED light strip instead of the RGB LED light strip.
In solid color mode, the led can be adjusted through the remote control to emit a variety of shades of white for a sophisticated modern look that hides when you switch the lights to music visualization mode
I cut 6 LED strips of length (
About 80 led each)
, And weld them in a snake, create a 6x80 LED matrix in the lamp.
I weld a couple of feet of extension cords to the power supply, ground and control lines and pass them through the holes I cut to the back of the lamp with a spiral drill bit, and I connect them to the spadee controller.
It\'s time to open it and enjoy it!
I think the design ended up being an interesting combination of old and new.
It\'s industrial, but it\'s future (
Especially when the lights respond to your voice).
When running properly, it will drop a beautiful light in the room, it can also release its hidden party face, even when the light seems to go out, will begin to react to their voices with unsuspecting friends.
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