epoxy kumiko pendant light
For those who may not know, kumiko is an ancient Japanese technique to assemble wooden strips with geometric patterns without using metal fasteners.
The mesh and fill blocks in this project are bas wood strips of 1/2 \"x 1/8\" and you need kumiko fixtures to cut them into the right angle.
The fixture and the belt are linked together in the Tools section I use.
TotalBoat helped the project amicably and provided you with the coupon code.
Use \"JTWOODW10\" when checking out and get a 10% discount on all total boat products at www. totalboat.
Also at www. totalboat.
To help clarify things, I will cite the kumiko section as three separate sections for this note. The main grid (
Composed of all vertical and horizontal bars)
Tilt grid (
Bar running diagonally in the main grid), the infill (
Small strips cut into complex patterns in two grids).
These are the tools I use in this project, however, similar results can be obtained using similar tools. Kumiko jigs -table saw --
Hot glue gun: syringe--press -orbit sander -strips -epoxy -
Diamond paint-tape -cord -bulb -
The main mesh is made of three bars of different sizes. (4 -17 1/4\")(6 -6 1/4\")(6 -1 3/4\")
For kuimko, it must be very accurate when cutting all parts.
To make sure all of this is the same length, I stick them together, trim one side of the strip to make them uniform and cut the other side to length.
To achieve this, I used a table saw with a cross-line sled (
And many other steps in this project)
But it can also be done with a band saw or a hand saw, and the same thing applies to cutting half a circle.
In this project, there are a lot of half-laps that need to be cut, and this is where we are starting to build the patterns we are looking.
All the dimensions I use for this panel are stated in the next step.
To make it easier to cut half a circle and also to make their respective angles easier, I made this sledge for my table saw.
The rear fence is 90 degrees with the blade, and the tilt fence is 30 degrees with the fence.
The grooves on the sledge are 1/2 \"apart, intended to put a small piece into it to register the first half of the circle, but the spacing of this panel is closed, so I measured half a circle of each band, and use a reusable Block.
Once all the half rings are cut, the mesh can be assembled.
This is the first time I have added a tilt mesh to the project, and before that I did an exercise.
Because of this, I measured all the half laps very carefully and accurately, so I had no surprise (mistakes)later on.
I cut three and a half laps on the small angular strip first.
With these cuts, I then cut the center half a circle with a longer strip.
Then, I used the small bar as a template and marked the other two and a half laps on the Strip.
I did this to make sure that all of these halves are properly separated so that they can intersect correctly.
I also added small tilt parts to the end of this grid, and in order to place them evenly, I started measuring from the center half circle of the strip.
With all of these half-circle cuts, this reclined gris can be assembled.
Now it\'s time to combine the two grids together, and that\'s where a couple can go wrong.
If the half rings do not have an appropriate interval, the grinding will deform when they are assembled and will complicate the next steps.
To prevent this, I used the grid itself to mark the half-circle position.
I cut half a circle on the main mesh first, so I centered the tilt mesh on the main mesh and tracked around the stripes to mark where I needed to cut.
I removed the straps I needed to cut from the made mesh and cut them with the sleds on my desk.
These need to be cut at 60 degrees, so I added another fence to the sled.
With the cutting of the half-circle, I reassembled the main mesh and put the angle in the new half-circle slot.
I make sure it is centered and Mark and cut this half circle the same way.
Then the mesh is assembled, and these are the half turns that are needed for these panels.
I glued certain parts at a time and used dry glue and I took them out for the panel to cut the extra length of the strip.
I used a Japanese hacksaw and they worked very well.
Removing parts from the panel makes it easier to cut the strip and glue to make sure the strip stays in the desired position.
If you\'re going to do this project, consider which parts you need to glue first so you don\'t draw in the corner.
Also, you may not need glue if your half lap is tight enough.
For the sake of caution, I added.
I am a person who likes belts and straps.
This frame is made of African mahogany and I cut the strips with 1/2 \"x 3/8.
After cutting the first Mitter at one of the ends, I marked the correct length I needed to cut this frame part with a panel.
Cut in a piece to the right size, I stick it in the right place and repeat the process in the rest of the frame referring to the first block.
I also marked and cut each piece of the frame for each side of each panel.
So I have a very precise fitting frame.
With the cut of the frame piece, I tied the corners when the frame was opened.
I added glue to the Mitter and sealed the frame with tape.
I also add glue inside the frame and glue the kumiko panel to the frame.
If there is any gap between the panel and the frame, I will also add tape to narrow it down.
Filling is an interesting but challenging part of making kumiko.
I covered the process in great detail in another note linked here.
In this Instructable, I introduced how to make asanoha patterns for square grids, which I use for small rectangular sections at the top and bottom of the panel.
This process is very similar for the Diamond section on the inclined mesh, except that the fill block is cut with a 30 degree and 60 degree fixture to reflect the angle in the mesh.
The next step is epoxy.
I first covered some plywood with sheath tape as the back plate.
The sheath tape does not stick to the epoxy when cured, which will allow me to easily remove the panel later.
I fixed the panels to these boards with hot glue, which will prevent the epoxy from spilling under the panels.
I used a weight on the panel to make sure they were flat on the back panel.
It\'s important to make sure the panel is horizontal.
I checked the level in both directions and added the gasket where needed.
I they started mixing epoxy and did two separate dumps for the project, each with a depth of 1/8.
The first is a clear level, and the second is where I add color paint.
In this way, more light can gather through the side of the lamp.
To get the epoxy into the tight pocket, I used a dental syringe.
Once poured into the gel state for the first time, I started mixing more epoxy and adding blue and green paint to get the Navy turquoise mixture.
I have to mix a few layers of epoxy so I don\'t have too much epoxy in the Cup and it is possible that it is too fast to reach the heat release and in the mixed Cup
Because of this, I know that there will be different blue colors for each batch.
So I mixed enough epoxy to fill the same pocket in each panel and repeated it until all the pockets were filled.
When the epoxy is fully cured, I remove the panel from the back plate with a chisel.
Next, I cut the chamfer on the back of the long side and on the short side of the panel.
The short side will be the bottom of the lamp and the long side will stick to other panels.
I think it would be more accurate to cut these chamfers with router tables, but I don\'t.
So I turned the router upside down.
Down, tighten well in my vise and install a 1/4 chamfer bit.
I am confident to do so, but I would not recommend it if it is not safe for you as you have a very small reference base.
With these cuts, I put the four panels together to measure the length of the wire that will be connected.
I will not provide the size for this work, as it depends on the accuracy of your cutting in the previous steps and the light line you plan to give you.
I cut this piece very long and cut off the tension at the end accurately with my table saw and cross cutting sledge with fenders.
With these cuts, I drilled a hole in the center of this lamp head.
The pedals on my work were not long enough to pass through the entire wood thickness, so I drilled a slightly longer big hole to get the whole light to sit in.
I drilled these holes with a drilling machine, but the normal drill bit will work fine, just make sure to drill as straight as possible.
If you are using a forstner drill bit, it would be helpful to drill a larger hole first.
When I was on the drill I set up a fence and drilled most of the jacks in the frame of the two panels.
Then I cleaned the chicken eye with a chisel.
Before assembly, I polished the front and back of the panel to clean up any conflicts in kumiko parts and epoxy.
I polished the epoxy with 120 of the sand, leaving a little rough surface.
This helps eliminate light through epoxy.
I first stuck the rope together in the morning and then used the clip to make sure it was fully in place.
I added the glue to the chamfer and it would be tricky to stick these pieces together with a clip, so I replaced it with a rubber band.
I made sure not to add too much glue here as I didn\'t squeeze out too much glue to clean it up.
I also used the Gorilla brand wood glue because it was dry and clear and could not be seen if there was a little extrusion.
After the glue dried, I removed all the rubber bands and removed any dust in the vacuum with the brush attachment.
I mainly use mahogany as the finish and paint it with a strong orange color.
With it, it\'s all over.
When I poured the epoxy, I decided not to add any epoxy in the Diamond section.
In this way, more light can pass through the cold blue epoxy and highlight the warm wood tones.
This kumiko and epoxy process is something more I will explore in the future, so be sure to follow me and Instagram (@jtwoodworks)
If you would like an update on these projects.
You can see here the video of how I made this lamp.
You can also find me on YouTube Instagram and check out the behind-the-scenes shoot notes I\'m currently doing on Facebook and Twitter: This article includes member links.
Thank you for your support!