christmas tree trunk reading light
by：EME LIGHTING
2020-01-07
Even if there is a Christmas tree compost or coverage project in your Township or city, it is difficult to see such a lovely tree.
So why not harvest this year\'s Christmas tree to make a gift for next year or make a special souvenir for yourself?
This project upgrades the tree trunk to the base of the cute simple reading light.
When used with the Edison bulb, it gives out a natural, warm and comfortable bedside reading light that is gentle to both eyes and purse. SKILLS! TOOLS (Required)TOOLS (Optional)MATERIALS (Required)MATERIALS (Optional)
Note: I highly recommend wearing gloves for all steps before the wood dries.
Otherwise, as you can see from the picture above, you will get sap, which is impossible to get off!
If you don\'t know what a specific tool is, a link to the product is listed, or get confused by all the options outside and all the lively debates you\'ll find while doing your research on the forum!
The material cost can be from $0 (if entirely up-cycled)
If you purchase a new light fixture pendant and Edison bulb and decide to use the stain and seal (
Need to buy). Re-
Use materials and borrowing tools as much as possible!
Find local tool libraries and manufacturer space and take advantage of the \"buy\" feature
No group and no frugality/REuse stores.
You must also have a neighbor who is willing to lend tools and scrap.
Use standard hands
Saw, saw, or even chain
Saw, cut the lower part of the trunk from your tree.
The position you cut should be where the trunk diameter is less than 3 inch.
For a typical 6 feet Christmas tree, you should be able to salvage at least 1 feet of the trunk that will make up about 4 lampstands.
While not necessarily accurate, an easy way to check the diameter is to cut a rope 9. 5 inches long (
Circumference = diameter * PI, 3 inch * PI ~ = 9. 42 inches).
In order to do the cutting, it may be necessary to remove some branches first by breaking or cutting (
Best job for trimming and cutting).
No matter what method, be sure not to cut the limbs too close to the trunk or break because you don\'t want to peel the bark.
It also recommends a continuous cut through the entire trunk instead of cutting from multiple directions, so you can get a clean cut that will be smooth at a later date without excessive sanding.
To do this, it is helpful to remove the suitcase from the ground so it is easier to see.
Note: the sharp saw is easy to work.
Take a look at some videos on how to grind a handsaw and cut wood like butter!
First, decide if you want to keep the lowest part that is submerged in the water.
Personally, I cut this part off (
Easily identified by \"Waterline\" or your tree rack depth)
Because the bark will not stay on it, some cleaning is required before use.
Then cut the limbs.
Before and after the image is displayed.
Unlike the typical pruning on live trees, I like to trim the limbs flat with the trunk to get a clean look, but the number of limbs you leave is entirely up to your personal preference.
No matter what you do, always try to cut the limbs off the torso and take it slowly.
Although I have also done this with a standard handsaw, it can be done most easily with a trim saw.
If you have a ton of branches and find it difficult to trim the last one right away, then trim or break the branches for about 3-
4 inch then go back and clean it up.
Cut the trimmed trunk into at least 3 inch long pieces.
This is the minimum length required to fit the suggested light pendant, that is, 3.
5 inch in length including cable bending.
This makes the fixtures that stretch out above the trunk part about half an inch.
If you want to use another light pendant or have a different aesthetic preference, be sure to cut the trunk length appropriately in a similar way.
Just make sure the drill bit is at least as long as your preferred trunk length.
When you do the cutting, lift the suitcase in some way so that the cutting can be done continuously, which is also the easiest.
While it may be easier to cut from multiple sides, more cleaning is needed later in order to make the surface smooth.
Select which side of each part of the top you want to be, mark the center with a ruler or just \"visual.
Personally, I like to use a slightly larger side at the bottom so that it is like the root torch of a real tree.
Using a 1/1/8 drill bit, completely drill holes in the trunk section at the center mark.
If you are using a cordless drill, start with Speed 1 and set it to \"drill bit\", which is represented by an icon that looks like the drill bit you have installed.
To avoid damage to the working surface, put a piece of waste wood under the trunk section.
This step is called a drilling guide hole, which is an initial hole used to guide the fastener, or in our case, a drilling hole for a larger hole.
Since it will guide all future drilling, make sure the drill bit is vertical (
90 degree angle)
So everything is straight.
Next, change a piece of masking tape along the shaft for a month-
1/2 shovel or Forstner bit, so the lower edge of the tape indicates 2-
1/2 inch, drill bit of outer diameter from the beginning (see image).
Please note that 1-
The pendant fixture I used needed the 1/2 bit again and chose it for a close-fitting installation.
If you are using another pendant, then just measure the diameter of the pendant and use a bit equal to or 1/8 larger than the diameter of the pendant. Install the 1-
Put the 1/2 shovel or Forstner drill bit into the drill bit, put the drill bit into the 1/8 pilot hole and start drilling (slowly! )
Make sure the drill bit is perpendicular to the trunk part again.
For this step, the safest option is to fix the trunk part using two clips, as shown in the figure.
In order to maintain a slow, controlled speed, it is recommended to use a cordless electric drill at this step.
Just make sure it\'s set to 1-
Speed, using drill settings (
Looks like an icon for a standard drill bit).
When you practice, make sure you\'re straight forward, not an angle, and if you find yourself drifting, make some minor corrections as you move forward.
You will also stop from time to pour the pieces of wood.
The vacuum is very helpful here, so you don\'t have to release the suitcase.
When the bottom of the tape mark is flush or level with the top of the trunk part, stop drilling.
When you are deep enough, you can \"eyeball it\" again or look like a ruler with a straight edge (see pictures).
Finally, use a 1/2 drill bit to drill into the center of the hole through the bottom and into the waste wood below.
Test the pendant to fit by pouring it into the hole.
If it\'s too tight, run the 1 inch bit back from the hole to clean it up, or use the next size.
The goal is to have only 1/16 clearance or less so that the bulb can stand upright and not loose in the trunk.
Use a 1/2 wood cut or router to cut a channel for the light pendant cable outlet.
Reverse the trunk part, draw a rectangle from center to edge, 1/2 wide, in the direction you want to be the back of the light.
This will be the area we cut or cut out.
Using mallets and chisels, the boundary of the rectangle is first slotted.
Make sure that the flat face of the blade is facing the outside of the rectangle so that you will have a nice clean edge later on.
The center groove of the rectangle is also divided several times, effectively dividing it into several parts.
This will help to cut wood later.
Next, open the chisel into the side of the suitcase, about 1/4 from the bottom surface.
Again, make sure that the flat face of the blade is down so that the wedge face is below the rectangular part you mark and can be separated from the trunk part.
Keep digging until you clear the passage.
You can go back and forth through the Channel by hand after most of the material has been removed, and once again down the flat side to transport the chisel out of the channel.
The test puts the wires into the Channel to ensure that the wires do not stretch out and that the base of the trunk is able to sit flat.
Note: just like a saw, it will be different to grind the wood.
Even brand new wood chisels can be reached with dull tips, so give it a touch and a clean, sharp edge if you have fine metal files.
This step is optional and fits your personal preferences.
If you do clean pruning and tree trunk cutting, there is not much to clean up, and about 100 of sandpaper and 220 of sand will make the surface of all the cut wood smooth.
If your cut is not very smooth, you want to be fast and smooth, the fastest way is to use an electric track Sander.
If the surface is very rough, use 60 or 120 of the sand again, and then use 220 of the sand pad for final polishing.
If you don\'t have a power sander, manual aircraft or wood rasp is also a good \"manual\" method to knock down the highs.
If you want to make the cut very smooth, keep moving forward in the sand (320, 400, etc)
Until you are satisfied.
Note: If you are not familiar with the sandpaper, the less quantity the rough the surface.
For example, the 60 sand is designed to remove large defects like splitting, while the 600 sand is basically used for polishing.
When increasing from low sand (i. e. 60)
For high sand, do not skip over 200 of the sand, otherwise you will wear the next piece in use.
For most \"rough surfaces\" woodworking projects, the typical progression may be 60,120,220 of the sand, and continue with 320 and 400 of the sand if you want an ultra-smooth surface.
Here is an example of a lot of sandpaper guides there.
The photo shows (left)and without (right)a finish.
This is also a personal preference and it should be noted that if the bark has fallen off, you may consider using a sealant to keep the bark attached to the trunk.
So basically, if you like natural wood tones and your bark sticks to the trunk like glue, feel free to skip this step and the additional cost/confusion that comes with it.
First, make sure that the wood you are going to apply stains and/or closures is clean.
Wipe it with a clean cloth and use a vacuum to absorb wood chips from the holes you drilled before.
Clean all wooden surfaces with soap and water or detergent such as acetone, which will remove all wax and oil from the surface.
If there is dirt, oil, or wax, your stains and sealers look uneven in color and finish.
First, if you want to change or enhance the color of the cut you make (
Top, bottom, limbs)
, Stained with wood.
Wood stains change the color of the wood or enhance the natural color of the wood (
Called \"natural stain \").
Wood stains can be purchased with and without the sealer, and can be applied with a brush or rag.
Regular stains are often sold as \"penetration stains\", while a combination of stains/sealant promotes \"penetration, stains and seals \".
\"Again, the stain is placed on the bare wood, not on the bark.
The function of the sealer is exactly what its name implies: sealing moisture and keeping it water by making a physical barrier.
Therefore, wood drying is important before any sealant is used.
I made sure it was true by cutting the suitcases and having them sit for about a month.
If you apply stains, be sure to follow the recommended drying time before applying the sealant.
Most stains would recommend using a sealed product produced by the same manufacturer, so feel free to use the product since it is known to be compatible.
The sealer can also be applied with a brush or spray.
I personally prefer the spray sealing device for small items because you can apply it easily and smoothly and you just need a little cardboard to prevent the spray from being over.
There is nothing wrong with using a brush, just make sure you apply a smooth sealing machine layer to each coat and use a good brush, otherwise you may leave a brush mark that requires extra sanding to be smooth.
Please also note that you can purchase the sealing in different finishes: Satin (
Matte, matte or glossy), semi-
Shine and shine.
If you like shiny things, use shine.
Personally I like the satin finish so the wood still looks natural.
When sealing, apply to each surface of the trunk part, including bark.
This is important because the sealant will actually help secure the bark on the trunk.
Another alternative to using the sealer is the use of wood oil.
Unlike sealing devices that make physical barriers, the oil works by being absorbed by the wood so that there is no room for moisture in the wood cells.
Oil and sealant have their own advantages and disadvantages in appearance and maintenance, there are many articles on this topic, and you can learn a lot from it!
Mark the lamp socket strain with a pen to eliminate the cable at the bottom of the nut.
Unscrew the strain relief nuts and thread adapters and slide them back to the wire.
Use two flat head screwdrivers, pry the label on the bottom of the lamp socket and slide it off the wire.
Using a razor blade, carefully cut the cable insulation between the two wires until the mark you made before.
Be careful not to cut off individual wire insulation!
All you need to do is score on one side and you can easily tear the cable insulation in half.
Peel off the insulation but connect it later as needed so that the strain elimination function is normal.
This step is necessary for ease of work, so that we can push the wires and connected terminals further out of the lamp socket.
Before removing the wire, it encourages marking the color of each wire on the socket housing and on the terminals they connect to keep it hot (120VAC)
Same as neutral.
It doesn\'t matter for this pendant type, but in most bulb sockets, the hot terminals are specially located at the back of the socket and the surface area is much smaller, minimize the opportunity for someone to shock themselves when installing or removing lights.
Use a small flat head screwdriver to push the terminal lock label in so that the terminal can be released from the socket housing.
Push them out with the wires on the back, or grab them with a needle nose clamp.
Next, remove the terminal from the wire.
This may be a temporary interference or friction fit (
Terminal voltage line)
, You can remove it by hand, or weld it.
If welded, apply the heat to the terminals connected by the wire with a soldering iron until the solder looks liquid.
When it does this, separate the wires and terminals and use de-Solder pigtails.
Note: If you are concerned that you have cut or cut into wire insulation during the cutting of cable insulation, you can check the short circuit using a Multimeter set to \"continuity check (
Looks like a sonic symbol)
Or resistance check (Ω symbol).
Connect the multimeter lead to the cable power plug (
One on any terminal).
The meter should not beep, and the resistance measurement should be infinite or \"open \".
\"It\'s hot to check (120VAC)
And neutral, which is called short circuit.
If the short circuit is measured, do not insert the lamp socket, but find the position where the two wires are in contact and apply the appropriate shrink package or tape to insulate the two wires.
Since the wires are free, please slide them over the bottom of the trunk section and then up from the top. Re-
Install the socket item to the cable in the following order: strain relief nut, thread adapter, and rear of the lamp head with label.
Next, use the hole you previously marked according to the color of the wire to feed the wire back to the top of the lamp socket.
Grab the wire, one at a time, and re-
Install socket label (
Needle and nose pliers recommended).
Similarly, if welding is required, please first pass the wire all the way through the socket, heat the label of the terminal, and connect the wire to the label when the weld on the label melts.
To do this, a device called \"Help hand\" or \"third hand\" will help to secure the label in place when welding and wires are used.
After connecting the two labels, pull the wire back into the socket until the lock tag is in place.
Test if they are locked by trying to push them back through the wire.
Once it is confirmed that the wires and labels are safe, by first breaking the rear to the front, then screwing in the Threaded Adapter, reassembling the lamp holder assembly, and then screwing on the strain relief.
If you want to paint it before installing the socket, use a color paint for plastic and apply a variety of coatings.
Be sure to protect the overspray of the power cord and the socket inside (
Something socket with paper or Rag).
When the paint is dry (
Follow product instructions)
, Hang the whole back to the trunk part.
It should be a nice, comfortable fit.
Finally, turn the suitcase over and fix the cable at Channel 2 or 3 with a heavy stapler with a 1/2 stapler.
Make sure the pendant is fully seated in the trunk before binding.
Also make sure to align the stable gun center with the cable, and the cable is centered in the channel first.
You definitely want to avoid putting staple food on the cable, as it causes a short circuit (
Connection between heat and neutral)
Or create a shocking danger.
If you\'re not used to using a nail gun, hammer-
In Staples, it can also be purchased at home improvement stores that are usually used with Romex wire.
Install your bulb. . .
Plug in the light. . .
Switch on. . . ENJOY! P. S.
Thank you for your reading, I hope you enjoyed making this lamp and enjoying many hours of reading through its light!
So why not harvest this year\'s Christmas tree to make a gift for next year or make a special souvenir for yourself?
This project upgrades the tree trunk to the base of the cute simple reading light.
When used with the Edison bulb, it gives out a natural, warm and comfortable bedside reading light that is gentle to both eyes and purse. SKILLS! TOOLS (Required)TOOLS (Optional)MATERIALS (Required)MATERIALS (Optional)
Note: I highly recommend wearing gloves for all steps before the wood dries.
Otherwise, as you can see from the picture above, you will get sap, which is impossible to get off!
If you don\'t know what a specific tool is, a link to the product is listed, or get confused by all the options outside and all the lively debates you\'ll find while doing your research on the forum!
The material cost can be from $0 (if entirely up-cycled)
If you purchase a new light fixture pendant and Edison bulb and decide to use the stain and seal (
Need to buy). Re-
Use materials and borrowing tools as much as possible!
Find local tool libraries and manufacturer space and take advantage of the \"buy\" feature
No group and no frugality/REuse stores.
You must also have a neighbor who is willing to lend tools and scrap.
Use standard hands
Saw, saw, or even chain
Saw, cut the lower part of the trunk from your tree.
The position you cut should be where the trunk diameter is less than 3 inch.
For a typical 6 feet Christmas tree, you should be able to salvage at least 1 feet of the trunk that will make up about 4 lampstands.
While not necessarily accurate, an easy way to check the diameter is to cut a rope 9. 5 inches long (
Circumference = diameter * PI, 3 inch * PI ~ = 9. 42 inches).
In order to do the cutting, it may be necessary to remove some branches first by breaking or cutting (
Best job for trimming and cutting).
No matter what method, be sure not to cut the limbs too close to the trunk or break because you don\'t want to peel the bark.
It also recommends a continuous cut through the entire trunk instead of cutting from multiple directions, so you can get a clean cut that will be smooth at a later date without excessive sanding.
To do this, it is helpful to remove the suitcase from the ground so it is easier to see.
Note: the sharp saw is easy to work.
Take a look at some videos on how to grind a handsaw and cut wood like butter!
First, decide if you want to keep the lowest part that is submerged in the water.
Personally, I cut this part off (
Easily identified by \"Waterline\" or your tree rack depth)
Because the bark will not stay on it, some cleaning is required before use.
Then cut the limbs.
Before and after the image is displayed.
Unlike the typical pruning on live trees, I like to trim the limbs flat with the trunk to get a clean look, but the number of limbs you leave is entirely up to your personal preference.
No matter what you do, always try to cut the limbs off the torso and take it slowly.
Although I have also done this with a standard handsaw, it can be done most easily with a trim saw.
If you have a ton of branches and find it difficult to trim the last one right away, then trim or break the branches for about 3-
4 inch then go back and clean it up.
Cut the trimmed trunk into at least 3 inch long pieces.
This is the minimum length required to fit the suggested light pendant, that is, 3.
5 inch in length including cable bending.
This makes the fixtures that stretch out above the trunk part about half an inch.
If you want to use another light pendant or have a different aesthetic preference, be sure to cut the trunk length appropriately in a similar way.
Just make sure the drill bit is at least as long as your preferred trunk length.
When you do the cutting, lift the suitcase in some way so that the cutting can be done continuously, which is also the easiest.
While it may be easier to cut from multiple sides, more cleaning is needed later in order to make the surface smooth.
Select which side of each part of the top you want to be, mark the center with a ruler or just \"visual.
Personally, I like to use a slightly larger side at the bottom so that it is like the root torch of a real tree.
Using a 1/1/8 drill bit, completely drill holes in the trunk section at the center mark.
If you are using a cordless drill, start with Speed 1 and set it to \"drill bit\", which is represented by an icon that looks like the drill bit you have installed.
To avoid damage to the working surface, put a piece of waste wood under the trunk section.
This step is called a drilling guide hole, which is an initial hole used to guide the fastener, or in our case, a drilling hole for a larger hole.
Since it will guide all future drilling, make sure the drill bit is vertical (
90 degree angle)
So everything is straight.
Next, change a piece of masking tape along the shaft for a month-
1/2 shovel or Forstner bit, so the lower edge of the tape indicates 2-
1/2 inch, drill bit of outer diameter from the beginning (see image).
Please note that 1-
The pendant fixture I used needed the 1/2 bit again and chose it for a close-fitting installation.
If you are using another pendant, then just measure the diameter of the pendant and use a bit equal to or 1/8 larger than the diameter of the pendant. Install the 1-
Put the 1/2 shovel or Forstner drill bit into the drill bit, put the drill bit into the 1/8 pilot hole and start drilling (slowly! )
Make sure the drill bit is perpendicular to the trunk part again.
For this step, the safest option is to fix the trunk part using two clips, as shown in the figure.
In order to maintain a slow, controlled speed, it is recommended to use a cordless electric drill at this step.
Just make sure it\'s set to 1-
Speed, using drill settings (
Looks like an icon for a standard drill bit).
When you practice, make sure you\'re straight forward, not an angle, and if you find yourself drifting, make some minor corrections as you move forward.
You will also stop from time to pour the pieces of wood.
The vacuum is very helpful here, so you don\'t have to release the suitcase.
When the bottom of the tape mark is flush or level with the top of the trunk part, stop drilling.
When you are deep enough, you can \"eyeball it\" again or look like a ruler with a straight edge (see pictures).
Finally, use a 1/2 drill bit to drill into the center of the hole through the bottom and into the waste wood below.
Test the pendant to fit by pouring it into the hole.
If it\'s too tight, run the 1 inch bit back from the hole to clean it up, or use the next size.
The goal is to have only 1/16 clearance or less so that the bulb can stand upright and not loose in the trunk.
Use a 1/2 wood cut or router to cut a channel for the light pendant cable outlet.
Reverse the trunk part, draw a rectangle from center to edge, 1/2 wide, in the direction you want to be the back of the light.
This will be the area we cut or cut out.
Using mallets and chisels, the boundary of the rectangle is first slotted.
Make sure that the flat face of the blade is facing the outside of the rectangle so that you will have a nice clean edge later on.
The center groove of the rectangle is also divided several times, effectively dividing it into several parts.
This will help to cut wood later.
Next, open the chisel into the side of the suitcase, about 1/4 from the bottom surface.
Again, make sure that the flat face of the blade is down so that the wedge face is below the rectangular part you mark and can be separated from the trunk part.
Keep digging until you clear the passage.
You can go back and forth through the Channel by hand after most of the material has been removed, and once again down the flat side to transport the chisel out of the channel.
The test puts the wires into the Channel to ensure that the wires do not stretch out and that the base of the trunk is able to sit flat.
Note: just like a saw, it will be different to grind the wood.
Even brand new wood chisels can be reached with dull tips, so give it a touch and a clean, sharp edge if you have fine metal files.
This step is optional and fits your personal preferences.
If you do clean pruning and tree trunk cutting, there is not much to clean up, and about 100 of sandpaper and 220 of sand will make the surface of all the cut wood smooth.
If your cut is not very smooth, you want to be fast and smooth, the fastest way is to use an electric track Sander.
If the surface is very rough, use 60 or 120 of the sand again, and then use 220 of the sand pad for final polishing.
If you don\'t have a power sander, manual aircraft or wood rasp is also a good \"manual\" method to knock down the highs.
If you want to make the cut very smooth, keep moving forward in the sand (320, 400, etc)
Until you are satisfied.
Note: If you are not familiar with the sandpaper, the less quantity the rough the surface.
For example, the 60 sand is designed to remove large defects like splitting, while the 600 sand is basically used for polishing.
When increasing from low sand (i. e. 60)
For high sand, do not skip over 200 of the sand, otherwise you will wear the next piece in use.
For most \"rough surfaces\" woodworking projects, the typical progression may be 60,120,220 of the sand, and continue with 320 and 400 of the sand if you want an ultra-smooth surface.
Here is an example of a lot of sandpaper guides there.
The photo shows (left)and without (right)a finish.
This is also a personal preference and it should be noted that if the bark has fallen off, you may consider using a sealant to keep the bark attached to the trunk.
So basically, if you like natural wood tones and your bark sticks to the trunk like glue, feel free to skip this step and the additional cost/confusion that comes with it.
First, make sure that the wood you are going to apply stains and/or closures is clean.
Wipe it with a clean cloth and use a vacuum to absorb wood chips from the holes you drilled before.
Clean all wooden surfaces with soap and water or detergent such as acetone, which will remove all wax and oil from the surface.
If there is dirt, oil, or wax, your stains and sealers look uneven in color and finish.
First, if you want to change or enhance the color of the cut you make (
Top, bottom, limbs)
, Stained with wood.
Wood stains change the color of the wood or enhance the natural color of the wood (
Called \"natural stain \").
Wood stains can be purchased with and without the sealer, and can be applied with a brush or rag.
Regular stains are often sold as \"penetration stains\", while a combination of stains/sealant promotes \"penetration, stains and seals \".
\"Again, the stain is placed on the bare wood, not on the bark.
The function of the sealer is exactly what its name implies: sealing moisture and keeping it water by making a physical barrier.
Therefore, wood drying is important before any sealant is used.
I made sure it was true by cutting the suitcases and having them sit for about a month.
If you apply stains, be sure to follow the recommended drying time before applying the sealant.
Most stains would recommend using a sealed product produced by the same manufacturer, so feel free to use the product since it is known to be compatible.
The sealer can also be applied with a brush or spray.
I personally prefer the spray sealing device for small items because you can apply it easily and smoothly and you just need a little cardboard to prevent the spray from being over.
There is nothing wrong with using a brush, just make sure you apply a smooth sealing machine layer to each coat and use a good brush, otherwise you may leave a brush mark that requires extra sanding to be smooth.
Please also note that you can purchase the sealing in different finishes: Satin (
Matte, matte or glossy), semi-
Shine and shine.
If you like shiny things, use shine.
Personally I like the satin finish so the wood still looks natural.
When sealing, apply to each surface of the trunk part, including bark.
This is important because the sealant will actually help secure the bark on the trunk.
Another alternative to using the sealer is the use of wood oil.
Unlike sealing devices that make physical barriers, the oil works by being absorbed by the wood so that there is no room for moisture in the wood cells.
Oil and sealant have their own advantages and disadvantages in appearance and maintenance, there are many articles on this topic, and you can learn a lot from it!
Mark the lamp socket strain with a pen to eliminate the cable at the bottom of the nut.
Unscrew the strain relief nuts and thread adapters and slide them back to the wire.
Use two flat head screwdrivers, pry the label on the bottom of the lamp socket and slide it off the wire.
Using a razor blade, carefully cut the cable insulation between the two wires until the mark you made before.
Be careful not to cut off individual wire insulation!
All you need to do is score on one side and you can easily tear the cable insulation in half.
Peel off the insulation but connect it later as needed so that the strain elimination function is normal.
This step is necessary for ease of work, so that we can push the wires and connected terminals further out of the lamp socket.
Before removing the wire, it encourages marking the color of each wire on the socket housing and on the terminals they connect to keep it hot (120VAC)
Same as neutral.
It doesn\'t matter for this pendant type, but in most bulb sockets, the hot terminals are specially located at the back of the socket and the surface area is much smaller, minimize the opportunity for someone to shock themselves when installing or removing lights.
Use a small flat head screwdriver to push the terminal lock label in so that the terminal can be released from the socket housing.
Push them out with the wires on the back, or grab them with a needle nose clamp.
Next, remove the terminal from the wire.
This may be a temporary interference or friction fit (
Terminal voltage line)
, You can remove it by hand, or weld it.
If welded, apply the heat to the terminals connected by the wire with a soldering iron until the solder looks liquid.
When it does this, separate the wires and terminals and use de-Solder pigtails.
Note: If you are concerned that you have cut or cut into wire insulation during the cutting of cable insulation, you can check the short circuit using a Multimeter set to \"continuity check (
Looks like a sonic symbol)
Or resistance check (Ω symbol).
Connect the multimeter lead to the cable power plug (
One on any terminal).
The meter should not beep, and the resistance measurement should be infinite or \"open \".
\"It\'s hot to check (120VAC)
And neutral, which is called short circuit.
If the short circuit is measured, do not insert the lamp socket, but find the position where the two wires are in contact and apply the appropriate shrink package or tape to insulate the two wires.
Since the wires are free, please slide them over the bottom of the trunk section and then up from the top. Re-
Install the socket item to the cable in the following order: strain relief nut, thread adapter, and rear of the lamp head with label.
Next, use the hole you previously marked according to the color of the wire to feed the wire back to the top of the lamp socket.
Grab the wire, one at a time, and re-
Install socket label (
Needle and nose pliers recommended).
Similarly, if welding is required, please first pass the wire all the way through the socket, heat the label of the terminal, and connect the wire to the label when the weld on the label melts.
To do this, a device called \"Help hand\" or \"third hand\" will help to secure the label in place when welding and wires are used.
After connecting the two labels, pull the wire back into the socket until the lock tag is in place.
Test if they are locked by trying to push them back through the wire.
Once it is confirmed that the wires and labels are safe, by first breaking the rear to the front, then screwing in the Threaded Adapter, reassembling the lamp holder assembly, and then screwing on the strain relief.
If you want to paint it before installing the socket, use a color paint for plastic and apply a variety of coatings.
Be sure to protect the overspray of the power cord and the socket inside (
Something socket with paper or Rag).
When the paint is dry (
Follow product instructions)
, Hang the whole back to the trunk part.
It should be a nice, comfortable fit.
Finally, turn the suitcase over and fix the cable at Channel 2 or 3 with a heavy stapler with a 1/2 stapler.
Make sure the pendant is fully seated in the trunk before binding.
Also make sure to align the stable gun center with the cable, and the cable is centered in the channel first.
You definitely want to avoid putting staple food on the cable, as it causes a short circuit (
Connection between heat and neutral)
Or create a shocking danger.
If you\'re not used to using a nail gun, hammer-
In Staples, it can also be purchased at home improvement stores that are usually used with Romex wire.
Install your bulb. . .
Plug in the light. . .
Switch on. . . ENJOY! P. S.
Thank you for your reading, I hope you enjoyed making this lamp and enjoying many hours of reading through its light!
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