bamboo floor lamp

My main room needed a few lights, and when I decided to build a floor lamp, bamboo seemed to be an obvious thing that would make the Poles light, solid and natural hollow, so I can run the cable inside.
So I \'ve been looking for a place to buy a rough bamboo pole and make a floor lamp for myself, but luckily I found a lot of stuff in my friend\'s garage!
It grows so fast that anyone with it in the garden can cut a few hundred feet every few months :)
My original plan was to build a wooden base and then buy a standard light bulb socket and put it on top of the pole.
I checked the price of the electrical parts I needed
Socket, cable, plug
I realized that in general they are more expensive than small tables
Light for 4 euros (
Your standard learning light, arm bending).
Looking at it, I think I can salvage the useful part of it, which has the benefit of a switch built into the base.
Once I took it home, I took it completely apart (
I didn\'t take a picture of it before I took it apart, but there was a box! )
I had to cut the wires off the socket because I couldn\'t unlock them and then I could remove the reflector, the corrugated plastic pipe on the arm, and the nut that fixed the arm on the base. I used a hack-
Saw off half of the goose neck on the arm because it did not help to support the bamboo pole and then re-
Attach the arm to the base and put the wire back inside.
Then I cut the plastic pipe in half: half I cut it and stick it to the metal arm to make it thicker and the other one I slid to the bottom end of the bamboo pole (
I am lucky that the diameter of the lamp head and bamboo is quite close! )I also re-
Use the plastic wrap that was originally on the top of the goose neck arm under the reflector to glue up
Sit at the bottom of the bamboo.
In the third photo, you can see the base of the reconnecting arm, and the plastic pipe stuck around it, and in the fourth photo, you can see the goose of the arm I saw off and the Mirror
My original plan was to install the reflector on the base to get a bigger weight, but it didn\'t work (
Especially once I tried to make a hole in the metal and make a mess of it).
Of course, 12-
Possibility that Cm diameter base does not support 1.
3 m pole, so I cut a piece of bamboo and split it vertically to screw these feet to the end of the seat (
It contains a thick rubber \"puck\" that is easy to screw in)
Make the base more stable. Pre-
Drill through bamboo to get the screw, otherwise it will crack-
They may be a little narrower than the screws, though, so there are still some bamboos to bite in.
Drill from the top (the outside)
, Because when the drill bit is washed out, the fiber will tear, and the fiber will be cleaner if it is at the bottom
They can peel all the way down.
Then, this is just a case of welding on an extra length cable that extends inside the bamboo (heat-
Shrink pipe used to cover the connection)
, Then pass the cable through the bamboo and mount the rod on the arm on the base (
The plastic pipes inside the rod cling to the plastic pipes that I have glued to the metal arm, holding them firmly together).
The lamp socket on the desk lamp already has a corner bracket, so I just need to drill two small holes on the top of the bamboo pole and screw the bracket on.
A small piece of bamboo is quickly cut into a certain size and slides into the top of the bar to protect the cable from the end of the internal screw.
Connect the socket to the cable
I weld the wire, hot-
Shrink the pipes, for neatness, and then keep the wires running along the back of the pole with hot glue, so they remain hidden --
Screw into the CFL bulb and the electrical part of the project is done: you can leave it there if you like industrial lighting; )
I want to add a shadow to mine. . .
If you happen to see my previous instructions about my shoes
Style desk lamp, this floor lamp is the lampshade I originally built for it: I turned it into a desk lamp when the lampshade was too large.
I have a few chopsticks and some tracing drawings, so I decided to use the same technique on this new lampshade.
Take a look at the first step in it and get the details, but basically it\'s just a question of using the glue to paste bamboo chopsticks directly along the edges of the drawing: you can see the layout I use in the photo (
I only use this design because those are not suitable
But the wound I left! )
The top and bottom of the frame are several more bamboo.
It took me quite a while to think about how to attach the shadow to the pole
Finally, I did a very simple thing: a chopstick stuck on the top of the pole, with the bamboo pieces I used to protect the cable, there is a small bent nail on the other end as a hook (
In order not to separate the chopsticks, I drilled a hole for it). Then I hot-
Stick a circle of twisted thin lines to the back of the curtain and hang them on the hook.
Adjust it a little, and the shadow hangs (
Quite concentrated)
In front of the bulb.
The only part I spent on anything for this was the original desk lamp (
4 euros less)and 1. 5m of 2-strand cable (about 1 euro).
The cost of other things is negligible.
I spent more money on the CFL bulb for this lamp: 6.
60 euro a good bright 150 W-equivalent (
Actually draw 27 W)
, Bright enough to light up the whole room by myself, which means I can avoid using my actual-200W(! )
Incandescent lamp removable wall stickerslight. It\'s a strip-
The filament bulb on the dimmer switch, so I can\'t easily replace it with the CFL, which is really the power of the whole project.
Now that I have finished 2 lights, I can use the desk lamp (
Well, speaker lights)
When I want to be brighter, I use the dimmer switch, the floor lamp, and of course, both if I want --lit.
The base didn\'t make the light as stable as I thought, but when it was in place it was stable enough that it just didn\'t like being pushed.
Guaranteed extra props/weights on the base to try to correct or stretch your feet is definitely not bad enough (
I think it\'s a bit like a crane and more suitable than a kangaroo. . . )
Again, all comments are welcome!