automatic lights for tool chest
by：EME LIGHTING
2020-06-06
Do you know how you opened the refrigerator?
It\'s cool, I want to do this in a lot of other useful places --
Like my toolbox.
So, now that I have it, I will also show you how to do it!
This project covers adding LED lights to each drawer of the toolbox
This way, when the door is opened, it opens automatically, and it closes when it is closed.
My toolbox is the artisan toolbox.
All the sizes I\'m going to mention are related to the standard artisan toolbox.
I have some basic project tools so the only cost of this project is the material cost.
I need LED lights, battery packs and switches to turn things off and on.
This project cost me about $30 in new material and depending on the tools and deals you find on the parts, your mileage may vary.
Next, we will cover all the parts.
When the door is closed, the mystery of the refrigerator light on or off is solved in this project.
Note that this structure is not as long as it looks.
Some steps are just extra info and you can skip the mini physics class and jump straight to the building!
Enough to understand why, let\'s get into how!
You may already have something that you need.
I also printed some custom brackets with a 3D printer;
If you have files and sizes, I will provide the files and sizes I use.
What you might have
Basic Project Kit)
: Scissors, tape, soldering iron, soldering tin, assistant welding table, electrical tape, wire cutting machine, some wires (
Everything is OK here, I used the remaining wires for another project), needle-
Mouth tongs, calipers.
If you don\'t have calipers, you can get a good digital calipers from Amazon or Ebay for around $10.
I highly recommend having an easy-to-read calipers for such items.
Something you may not have: these are the led light bars I use. (Amazon Prime $8)
Amazon: You can also get some waterproof LED light stripes (
For not much)(Optional)
Amazon: LED light bars-
Waterproof switch also known as limit switch. ($10 for Qnty 20).
I have installed my lights on 10 drawers, but for other projects these lights will never be too much.
Amazon: limit switch light bar simple connector (Optional -
$6 for 10 pieces, cut in half, 20 for 10 drawers)(Optional)
Amazon: Battery Stand For LED plug-in connector.
The battery holder of your choice is actually a function of how long you want to stay between replacing the battery.
Since we will cut about 18 inch segments for each drawer, the amp drawer is very low.
I chose these 6xAA holders, but there are other options here (
Including the use of charging packages).
More will be introduced later.
Ebay: 6 x AA battery stand about 3D printing section. If you don\'t have a 3D printer, don\'t just buy one for this project, buy one because they are so great.
But if you don\'t get oneyou should)
No need to buy a 3D printer, just use the molded plastic (
You should. .
Amazon: the key to refillable plastic here is low cost, low power consumption and easy to use LED light strips.
If you haven\'t used these things before you miss them.
These things are very cheap and can be installed for various purposes.
I have installed these lights in my kitchen for cabinet lighting, in my car for lighting places that are hard to see, and outside (
Weather proof version)
Mood lighting for the party.
Once you \'ve done a project with these kits, you\'ll be hooked on them.
The first thing to know is that most of the items you can buy online can be cut into small pieces under specified marks (
Usually 3 or 4 inch apart).
I bought a 16-foot strap for this project (standard size)
And cut into 9 inch segments.
This gave me 20 paragraphs 9 inch.
I used a 9 inch segment on each side of each drawer, with two segments per drawer.
There are 18 LED lights in each drawer.
Once cut in the specified position, you can use the metal clip you purchased or weld the metal wire directly on the metal strip.
The first time I used these things, I used the clips I bought online.
Over time, they tend to be influenced by movement and eventually become a bad relationship.
I know it looks scary but it\'s not hard to weld them, just take a moment and make sure you have a good connection.
I am not a welding expert but fortunately other authors have some good guidance on this issue.
I will wait for you to read one of them if you need help. Go ahead;
I will be here when you come back. . . . .
OK, when you cut out all the parts, we can take a mini physics class, wiring and testing. No not really.
You don\'t travel in time, so you don\'t need that much.
There are two concepts you don\'t need to know, but here is some information if you are curious.
These two concepts are voltage (V)
And Ma \'an hours (mAh).
I will make a lot of assumptions, so don\'t be picky here.
This is not a physics class, but a high-level overview.
I will keep math simple or you can jump to the next step if you don\'t care lol.
Voltage is the power required to run the circuit.
You can consider this from the point of view of mechanical force, to increase the weight of 100lb, you must provide a force of 100.
To run a 12 v circuit, you need to provide a 12 v voltage.
It can be deeper than that, but let\'s keep it simple, okay? An Ampere (
Commonly known as Amp)
Is how much current is needed to operate, and the amplifier hour is the time you can provide that current.
Imagine if you have 10 glasses of water and it has a hole and it leaks 1 cup per hour, then it takes 10 hours to empty out.
The 10 Cups here will be the potential time you get from the battery and the leak (cups per hour)
Extract milliamperes from your circuit.
If you have a battery of 700 amps, the amps are the same (
Typical AA battery is about 2500)
Your circuit consumes 100 mA per hour and you can run your circuit 700/100 = 7 for 7 hours. And yes 0.
7 amps = 700.
Let\'s talk about the battery.
The rated voltage of the lamp strip is 12 V.
A single AA battery is 1. 5V.
My battery pack is in series (
That means V-
V of one battery to the next)
, So to determine the voltage of the battery pack, multiply the number of batteries by 1. 5V.
12 V, you need 8 AA, which starts to get a bit big.
I used 6xAA for this project and the result is 9 v.
LED light bars can be in 9 v (
I think this is minimal)
They are just a little darker than the 12 v power supply. Updated (
Thanks for the correction of Galah)
: When series amps, it does not increase as much as the voltage.
Each battery is about 2500 mA hours, and when connected in series, the current hour remains the same as the number of batteries increases.
The light bar I bought is 12 V 20 W.
I only use 9 v, so I will use 9 instead of 12 in the calculation.
Calculate amps using Amp = Watt/voltage. 20/9 = 2.
The entire string of lights 22 Am ps.
I cut mine into 20 pieces.
2 for each door so I have 10 final parts).
The result is 2. 2 / 10 = 0.
222 or 222 amps per drawer.
It is estimated that my AA battery is about 2500 mAh and the theoretical consumption is 222 mA.
Some simple math calculations, I guess I can run for about 10 hours in a row without replacing the battery (
About 2500 mAh/222 mA = 10 hours).
I measured several drawers with a multimeter and found that my consumption was close to 150 mA.
The various light bars will be different and different batteries will be different, but when I use the tool, my drawer only opens for a few minutes at a time, so I expect the battery to last for a long time.
All in all, the battery pack is cheap and there is plenty of time to run these lights. Moving on. . .
The wiring of this project is very direct.
We are dealing with low voltage so any low voltage wire is OK.
The big box store sells low-voltage 2-line landscape lines that work well, or any other item lines that you have are also good.
For a couple of different reasons, I prefer solid core lines instead of woven ones, but the most important thing here is how easy it is to weld.
Wire selection is not important for small length and low voltage.
Your best friend at this step is to test, test and retest.
Every time you weld something to test the conductivity.
Make sure it works before you wrap anything up.
Test, test and retest.
The wiring diagram may look scary, but it\'s actually very simple.
The battery pack has V and V-(
Common Ground, position, neutral. . . .
Whatever you call it for this purpose).
Those names of V-
Not really interchanges, but we can use them this way for the purpose of this Instructable, because the idea is that they are just to complete the circuit of the battery.
I\'m not a SPage \"(
Electrical engineer)
So I will ask them to point me out the difference in detail in the comments.
First, you need to measure the distance of the LED to the desired position of the switch.
Measure the interior along the perimeter wall of the drawer.
You should measure where you want to run the wires and where it will be easier to hide them.
You need to add 1-for each LED-
2 inch for stripping, easy to install.
Once you cut these parts, please peel the wires on each side.
One side of the wire should be welded to V and V-
LED light strip direct (
Note what this should look like in the picture).
Make sure you notice which line is on V and which line is on V.
It would be helpful if the wires you are using are two different colors or have some sort of marking.
Perform this for two LED segments of the drawer.
Cut off some wires from the switch all the way to the front of the drawer for running the battery pack (
Straight down from the middle of the drawer).
The reason for this is to give you enough time to replace the battery at some point in the future without destroying anything.
Weld the wires to the battery pack and note the V and V-connections.
Remove the V and V lines from the battery pack and weld them together. Take the V-
Remove the wire from the battery and weld it on the parent wire connector. Two V.
From the LEDs, weld them together to form a separate bus bar connection.
At this point, put the battery into the battery seat and touch the two female joints together to test all the welded joints.
Test, test and retest.
You should be lighter if you do not re-check all connections.
Once you are satisfied with your spectacular welding work, electrician tape (
If you like, or heat shrink)
To prevent short circuit or impact later, all welded exposed joints.
After checking the conductivity again, touch V-
The two sides complete the circuit together and verify that you didn\'t screw anything up.
It is time to add some wisdom to the light.
Move on to the Magic in the toolbox.
You may or may not know the micro/limit switch.
You didn\'t realize the switch all day.
A typical application is to know if some movement has occurred.
This could be your door open (
Turn the light on)
, Position valve in power plant control, or any application.
This is the secret switch to help automate all kinds of things.
These switches are commonly used in applications like ours, with high reliability, fast switches and high tolerance accuracy.
This switch is the perfect application for our toolbox.
By the way, for more information, check out instructions on all types of limit switches and applications.
If you don\'t care about more detailed information on the switch, skip to the bold section that talks about using it.
The limit switch states that the switch we care about here has 4 main parts: Rocker arm, common leg, NC leg and no leg.
I will start with what people like? ? ! ? ! ? NO and NC.
This represents open and normally closed, and while the name sounds strange, it is very descriptive about its role.
Usually refers to the resting position.
If you just sit there and do nothing, just put the switch on the table, which is the normal position.
Closed is closed, open is open.
The closed circuit allows the current to flow, and the open circuit does not allow the current to flow.
So when connected to NC (Normally closed)
We have current and don\'t need to do anything with the switch.
When connected to NO (Normally Open)
If we don\'t do something about the switch, we don\'t have a current.
The rocker arm is the metal arm outside the red and black box, in contact with the moving object.
The movement of the arm is connected to the internal switch and the internal contact point is changed from NC to NO
When the rocker arm is connected, the limit switch is no longer in normal position.
It doesn\'t matter to understand this operation, just implement arm movement to change the contact point of the circuit from NC to NO.
The common leg is the switch part that always exists in the circuit.
This leg should always be connected to the circuit.
OK, please complete the term explanation so we don\'t have to talk about how it works but how to use it.
We will connect V-
In the last step, the bus connector is welded from the battery to the common leg of the limit switch.
On the NC leg, we will connect V-
The led wire welded from the last step.
I took one of my switches apart for this Instructable so you can see what\'s going on inside.
You can see that there is a lever on the limit switch without the housing, it is connected to the NC without engaging the rocker arm, which pops up when the rocker arm is pressed
When the closing force is removed, the internal spring resets the switch.
When we connect to NC and COMM, we have a complete circuit that does not press the switch.
We use it this way because when the drawer is open, there is no longer pressure from the back wall on the switch and it goes back to its normal position (drawer open)
The light is on.
When we turn off the drawer, the limit switch is in contact with the back wall and turns on the circuit to disconnect the power light.
Once you have established this connection, you should power the battery box again and test if the switch works as expected: the light lights up when nothing is pressed, the light goes off when you squeeze the rocker arm.
If you go through this quality step, go ahead and make a stand for this guy!
I know, most people are like I don\'t have a 3D printer, what should I do?
As I mentioned in the material list, if you don\'t have a 3D printer, buy some molded plastic and make a stand.
I haven\'t used it before and I know many people swear it\'s a great alternative to expensive 3D printers.
For those who use a 3D printer, the attached STL file will print 1 stand, so print as many as you want.
This project requires a bracket for each limit switch, the attachment is perfect for the limit switch that fits out in the material, and also for the craftsman rear panel.
These brackets are small and do not require a lot of material.
I printed mine with medium density and medium resolution Windows 10 printing software.
Because they are small, there is enough strength even at medium density.
The bracket pushed into the limit switch is 3mm, which can be broken even if no pressure is applied. (
Sorry to switch back and forth between English and metrics, but for small things, metrics are better than inches. )
Push the Limit switch hard with equal pressure on both sides to avoid breaking the bracket.
Make sure to align properly so that the side with the switch extends to the edge on the back of the drawer.
Please refer to the attached picture to align correctly so you can keep the rocker arm in good contact with the rear panel of the cabinet frame.
You should test if your particular cabinet is appropriate so that when the drawer is fully in place, you can touch the limit switch well to engage the rocker arm and turn the switch off.
I will load the design file and print the file so you can adjust it as needed.
This is a time for testing and re-testing.
Put your light package in the drawer (
Just put it there)
And fix the limit switch to the final position.
After opening the drawer, the lights should be turned on and after they are turned off, they should be turned off.
Continue with the final installation if everything is OK.
My cabinet was black so I used black tape so all the wires were gone.
You can use any tape you want and I like the clean look of gorilla black tape.
Not here. do you mean tape or duck tape?
I think both are correct, but when you type, you realize that maybe you can use them interchanges?
What\'s really interesting is that the tape was originally used to heat and cool the pipe (hence the name)
But due to the wear of glue and not really working, it really shouldn\'t be used in hot attacks.
Duck Tape comes from WW2 and is used on duck cloth, which is also its name.
I think they\'re the same? End side note.
There is no wrong way to do this.
Well, as long as you reach the goal of fixing and hiding wires.
If you seal up your drawer, I would say it\'s the wrong way.
You can take a look at my picture and see how I did it, but be creative here and put your mark on it.
You are doing you here.
Tape from the light to the switch and make sure you have access to the battery pack.
This is the tape, and the steps to give it its own might be excessive killing. Moving on.
First of all, I would like to thank Edison and Oleg Losev.
This structure can\'t be written without you.
It is easy for us to forgive a child who is afraid of black;
The real tragedy of life is when people are afraid of the light.
Light!
Hope this project is easy to follow up.
This is the first time I would like to have a lot of instructions to let me know how I performed in the comments and share the photos you made this! Enjoy!
It\'s cool, I want to do this in a lot of other useful places --
Like my toolbox.
So, now that I have it, I will also show you how to do it!
This project covers adding LED lights to each drawer of the toolbox
This way, when the door is opened, it opens automatically, and it closes when it is closed.
My toolbox is the artisan toolbox.
All the sizes I\'m going to mention are related to the standard artisan toolbox.
I have some basic project tools so the only cost of this project is the material cost.
I need LED lights, battery packs and switches to turn things off and on.
This project cost me about $30 in new material and depending on the tools and deals you find on the parts, your mileage may vary.
Next, we will cover all the parts.
When the door is closed, the mystery of the refrigerator light on or off is solved in this project.
Note that this structure is not as long as it looks.
Some steps are just extra info and you can skip the mini physics class and jump straight to the building!
Enough to understand why, let\'s get into how!
You may already have something that you need.
I also printed some custom brackets with a 3D printer;
If you have files and sizes, I will provide the files and sizes I use.
What you might have
Basic Project Kit)
: Scissors, tape, soldering iron, soldering tin, assistant welding table, electrical tape, wire cutting machine, some wires (
Everything is OK here, I used the remaining wires for another project), needle-
Mouth tongs, calipers.
If you don\'t have calipers, you can get a good digital calipers from Amazon or Ebay for around $10.
I highly recommend having an easy-to-read calipers for such items.
Something you may not have: these are the led light bars I use. (Amazon Prime $8)
Amazon: You can also get some waterproof LED light stripes (
For not much)(Optional)
Amazon: LED light bars-
Waterproof switch also known as limit switch. ($10 for Qnty 20).
I have installed my lights on 10 drawers, but for other projects these lights will never be too much.
Amazon: limit switch light bar simple connector (Optional -
$6 for 10 pieces, cut in half, 20 for 10 drawers)(Optional)
Amazon: Battery Stand For LED plug-in connector.
The battery holder of your choice is actually a function of how long you want to stay between replacing the battery.
Since we will cut about 18 inch segments for each drawer, the amp drawer is very low.
I chose these 6xAA holders, but there are other options here (
Including the use of charging packages).
More will be introduced later.
Ebay: 6 x AA battery stand about 3D printing section. If you don\'t have a 3D printer, don\'t just buy one for this project, buy one because they are so great.
But if you don\'t get oneyou should)
No need to buy a 3D printer, just use the molded plastic (
You should. .
Amazon: the key to refillable plastic here is low cost, low power consumption and easy to use LED light strips.
If you haven\'t used these things before you miss them.
These things are very cheap and can be installed for various purposes.
I have installed these lights in my kitchen for cabinet lighting, in my car for lighting places that are hard to see, and outside (
Weather proof version)
Mood lighting for the party.
Once you \'ve done a project with these kits, you\'ll be hooked on them.
The first thing to know is that most of the items you can buy online can be cut into small pieces under specified marks (
Usually 3 or 4 inch apart).
I bought a 16-foot strap for this project (standard size)
And cut into 9 inch segments.
This gave me 20 paragraphs 9 inch.
I used a 9 inch segment on each side of each drawer, with two segments per drawer.
There are 18 LED lights in each drawer.
Once cut in the specified position, you can use the metal clip you purchased or weld the metal wire directly on the metal strip.
The first time I used these things, I used the clips I bought online.
Over time, they tend to be influenced by movement and eventually become a bad relationship.
I know it looks scary but it\'s not hard to weld them, just take a moment and make sure you have a good connection.
I am not a welding expert but fortunately other authors have some good guidance on this issue.
I will wait for you to read one of them if you need help. Go ahead;
I will be here when you come back. . . . .
OK, when you cut out all the parts, we can take a mini physics class, wiring and testing. No not really.
You don\'t travel in time, so you don\'t need that much.
There are two concepts you don\'t need to know, but here is some information if you are curious.
These two concepts are voltage (V)
And Ma \'an hours (mAh).
I will make a lot of assumptions, so don\'t be picky here.
This is not a physics class, but a high-level overview.
I will keep math simple or you can jump to the next step if you don\'t care lol.
Voltage is the power required to run the circuit.
You can consider this from the point of view of mechanical force, to increase the weight of 100lb, you must provide a force of 100.
To run a 12 v circuit, you need to provide a 12 v voltage.
It can be deeper than that, but let\'s keep it simple, okay? An Ampere (
Commonly known as Amp)
Is how much current is needed to operate, and the amplifier hour is the time you can provide that current.
Imagine if you have 10 glasses of water and it has a hole and it leaks 1 cup per hour, then it takes 10 hours to empty out.
The 10 Cups here will be the potential time you get from the battery and the leak (cups per hour)
Extract milliamperes from your circuit.
If you have a battery of 700 amps, the amps are the same (
Typical AA battery is about 2500)
Your circuit consumes 100 mA per hour and you can run your circuit 700/100 = 7 for 7 hours. And yes 0.
7 amps = 700.
Let\'s talk about the battery.
The rated voltage of the lamp strip is 12 V.
A single AA battery is 1. 5V.
My battery pack is in series (
That means V-
V of one battery to the next)
, So to determine the voltage of the battery pack, multiply the number of batteries by 1. 5V.
12 V, you need 8 AA, which starts to get a bit big.
I used 6xAA for this project and the result is 9 v.
LED light bars can be in 9 v (
I think this is minimal)
They are just a little darker than the 12 v power supply. Updated (
Thanks for the correction of Galah)
: When series amps, it does not increase as much as the voltage.
Each battery is about 2500 mA hours, and when connected in series, the current hour remains the same as the number of batteries increases.
The light bar I bought is 12 V 20 W.
I only use 9 v, so I will use 9 instead of 12 in the calculation.
Calculate amps using Amp = Watt/voltage. 20/9 = 2.
The entire string of lights 22 Am ps.
I cut mine into 20 pieces.
2 for each door so I have 10 final parts).
The result is 2. 2 / 10 = 0.
222 or 222 amps per drawer.
It is estimated that my AA battery is about 2500 mAh and the theoretical consumption is 222 mA.
Some simple math calculations, I guess I can run for about 10 hours in a row without replacing the battery (
About 2500 mAh/222 mA = 10 hours).
I measured several drawers with a multimeter and found that my consumption was close to 150 mA.
The various light bars will be different and different batteries will be different, but when I use the tool, my drawer only opens for a few minutes at a time, so I expect the battery to last for a long time.
All in all, the battery pack is cheap and there is plenty of time to run these lights. Moving on. . .
The wiring of this project is very direct.
We are dealing with low voltage so any low voltage wire is OK.
The big box store sells low-voltage 2-line landscape lines that work well, or any other item lines that you have are also good.
For a couple of different reasons, I prefer solid core lines instead of woven ones, but the most important thing here is how easy it is to weld.
Wire selection is not important for small length and low voltage.
Your best friend at this step is to test, test and retest.
Every time you weld something to test the conductivity.
Make sure it works before you wrap anything up.
Test, test and retest.
The wiring diagram may look scary, but it\'s actually very simple.
The battery pack has V and V-(
Common Ground, position, neutral. . . .
Whatever you call it for this purpose).
Those names of V-
Not really interchanges, but we can use them this way for the purpose of this Instructable, because the idea is that they are just to complete the circuit of the battery.
I\'m not a SPage \"(
Electrical engineer)
So I will ask them to point me out the difference in detail in the comments.
First, you need to measure the distance of the LED to the desired position of the switch.
Measure the interior along the perimeter wall of the drawer.
You should measure where you want to run the wires and where it will be easier to hide them.
You need to add 1-for each LED-
2 inch for stripping, easy to install.
Once you cut these parts, please peel the wires on each side.
One side of the wire should be welded to V and V-
LED light strip direct (
Note what this should look like in the picture).
Make sure you notice which line is on V and which line is on V.
It would be helpful if the wires you are using are two different colors or have some sort of marking.
Perform this for two LED segments of the drawer.
Cut off some wires from the switch all the way to the front of the drawer for running the battery pack (
Straight down from the middle of the drawer).
The reason for this is to give you enough time to replace the battery at some point in the future without destroying anything.
Weld the wires to the battery pack and note the V and V-connections.
Remove the V and V lines from the battery pack and weld them together. Take the V-
Remove the wire from the battery and weld it on the parent wire connector. Two V.
From the LEDs, weld them together to form a separate bus bar connection.
At this point, put the battery into the battery seat and touch the two female joints together to test all the welded joints.
Test, test and retest.
You should be lighter if you do not re-check all connections.
Once you are satisfied with your spectacular welding work, electrician tape (
If you like, or heat shrink)
To prevent short circuit or impact later, all welded exposed joints.
After checking the conductivity again, touch V-
The two sides complete the circuit together and verify that you didn\'t screw anything up.
It is time to add some wisdom to the light.
Move on to the Magic in the toolbox.
You may or may not know the micro/limit switch.
You didn\'t realize the switch all day.
A typical application is to know if some movement has occurred.
This could be your door open (
Turn the light on)
, Position valve in power plant control, or any application.
This is the secret switch to help automate all kinds of things.
These switches are commonly used in applications like ours, with high reliability, fast switches and high tolerance accuracy.
This switch is the perfect application for our toolbox.
By the way, for more information, check out instructions on all types of limit switches and applications.
If you don\'t care about more detailed information on the switch, skip to the bold section that talks about using it.
The limit switch states that the switch we care about here has 4 main parts: Rocker arm, common leg, NC leg and no leg.
I will start with what people like? ? ! ? ! ? NO and NC.
This represents open and normally closed, and while the name sounds strange, it is very descriptive about its role.
Usually refers to the resting position.
If you just sit there and do nothing, just put the switch on the table, which is the normal position.
Closed is closed, open is open.
The closed circuit allows the current to flow, and the open circuit does not allow the current to flow.
So when connected to NC (Normally closed)
We have current and don\'t need to do anything with the switch.
When connected to NO (Normally Open)
If we don\'t do something about the switch, we don\'t have a current.
The rocker arm is the metal arm outside the red and black box, in contact with the moving object.
The movement of the arm is connected to the internal switch and the internal contact point is changed from NC to NO
When the rocker arm is connected, the limit switch is no longer in normal position.
It doesn\'t matter to understand this operation, just implement arm movement to change the contact point of the circuit from NC to NO.
The common leg is the switch part that always exists in the circuit.
This leg should always be connected to the circuit.
OK, please complete the term explanation so we don\'t have to talk about how it works but how to use it.
We will connect V-
In the last step, the bus connector is welded from the battery to the common leg of the limit switch.
On the NC leg, we will connect V-
The led wire welded from the last step.
I took one of my switches apart for this Instructable so you can see what\'s going on inside.
You can see that there is a lever on the limit switch without the housing, it is connected to the NC without engaging the rocker arm, which pops up when the rocker arm is pressed
When the closing force is removed, the internal spring resets the switch.
When we connect to NC and COMM, we have a complete circuit that does not press the switch.
We use it this way because when the drawer is open, there is no longer pressure from the back wall on the switch and it goes back to its normal position (drawer open)
The light is on.
When we turn off the drawer, the limit switch is in contact with the back wall and turns on the circuit to disconnect the power light.
Once you have established this connection, you should power the battery box again and test if the switch works as expected: the light lights up when nothing is pressed, the light goes off when you squeeze the rocker arm.
If you go through this quality step, go ahead and make a stand for this guy!
I know, most people are like I don\'t have a 3D printer, what should I do?
As I mentioned in the material list, if you don\'t have a 3D printer, buy some molded plastic and make a stand.
I haven\'t used it before and I know many people swear it\'s a great alternative to expensive 3D printers.
For those who use a 3D printer, the attached STL file will print 1 stand, so print as many as you want.
This project requires a bracket for each limit switch, the attachment is perfect for the limit switch that fits out in the material, and also for the craftsman rear panel.
These brackets are small and do not require a lot of material.
I printed mine with medium density and medium resolution Windows 10 printing software.
Because they are small, there is enough strength even at medium density.
The bracket pushed into the limit switch is 3mm, which can be broken even if no pressure is applied. (
Sorry to switch back and forth between English and metrics, but for small things, metrics are better than inches. )
Push the Limit switch hard with equal pressure on both sides to avoid breaking the bracket.
Make sure to align properly so that the side with the switch extends to the edge on the back of the drawer.
Please refer to the attached picture to align correctly so you can keep the rocker arm in good contact with the rear panel of the cabinet frame.
You should test if your particular cabinet is appropriate so that when the drawer is fully in place, you can touch the limit switch well to engage the rocker arm and turn the switch off.
I will load the design file and print the file so you can adjust it as needed.
This is a time for testing and re-testing.
Put your light package in the drawer (
Just put it there)
And fix the limit switch to the final position.
After opening the drawer, the lights should be turned on and after they are turned off, they should be turned off.
Continue with the final installation if everything is OK.
My cabinet was black so I used black tape so all the wires were gone.
You can use any tape you want and I like the clean look of gorilla black tape.
Not here. do you mean tape or duck tape?
I think both are correct, but when you type, you realize that maybe you can use them interchanges?
What\'s really interesting is that the tape was originally used to heat and cool the pipe (hence the name)
But due to the wear of glue and not really working, it really shouldn\'t be used in hot attacks.
Duck Tape comes from WW2 and is used on duck cloth, which is also its name.
I think they\'re the same? End side note.
There is no wrong way to do this.
Well, as long as you reach the goal of fixing and hiding wires.
If you seal up your drawer, I would say it\'s the wrong way.
You can take a look at my picture and see how I did it, but be creative here and put your mark on it.
You are doing you here.
Tape from the light to the switch and make sure you have access to the battery pack.
This is the tape, and the steps to give it its own might be excessive killing. Moving on.
First of all, I would like to thank Edison and Oleg Losev.
This structure can\'t be written without you.
It is easy for us to forgive a child who is afraid of black;
The real tragedy of life is when people are afraid of the light.
Light!
Hope this project is easy to follow up.
This is the first time I would like to have a lot of instructions to let me know how I performed in the comments and share the photos you made this! Enjoy!
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